Lapierre 2007 Morgon (Beaujolais) Light, with the texture of flake-depth foil, as if the fruit has been pressed and stretched into the most delicate leaves of nearly-transparent fruit. The wine is, in the context of its ancestors, so light that its not easy to discern its Morgon-ness (though the quality of the fruit is darker than most other Beaujolais of similar weight, and theres the faintest iron-like soil component that meets ones expectations). Drinking this wine is a little like holding ones breath, knowing that the slightest sound will disturb something thats important to hear. (8/09)
Lapierre 2007 Morgon (Beaujolais) More soil and (absent the heat) dusted peppercorn than has been typical for this wine, the result of a slight diminishment of the delicate. I dont mean to suggest an absence of fruit, but a very slight change in the balance is all thats necessary for this wine to shift position. (8/09)
Lapierre 2008 Vin de Pays des Gaules (Beaujolais) Whats this wine all about, I asked my most reliable retailer. Green and acidic, he responded, or something along those linesand this is a guy with a store full of bottles that fans of pointy fermented goop would call exactly that. Well, he was right: its green, its overly sharp, its thin and edgy, and its not for everyone, or even for most. Is for anyone? Well, I suppose; its not far in structure from the Cuve Granit bottling that some like to call red Muscadet, but it doesnt have the nervy balance of that wine. Its the worst Lapierre Ive ever tasted, and while Id be happy with it served from carafe in some country bistro, Im not eager to pay a U.S. retail price for it again. (9/09)
JP Brun FRV 100 (Beaujolais) I didnt check the lot code on this bottle, but based on its performance I think it may be part of the previous years stock, rather than a new release. (Im not sure, however.) This suspicion comes from a slightly stumbling stick and chew to the fruit, which carries a little more residue than the fun freshness it usually has. A minor nitpick, perhaps, but then again this was never advertised as an ager. (8/09)
JP Brun Terres Dores 2007 Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais) Continuing to stand above the Beaujolais Blanc pack (admittedly, I dont even think Ive reached a half-dozen examples, although I have no idea how many wines labeled Mcon that Ive tasted have been secret brethren), due less to its rich, earthy aromatics than its more vibrant palate presence and firmer structure. Still one of my favorite French chardonnays, given a certain and deliberate personal poverty within that category. (9/09)
Granger La Jacarde 2008 Beaujolais Villages Blanc (Beaujolais) Pure chardonnay seen through the lens of Beaujolais: a simple, sweet melody rather than a concerto or symphony of flavor. Light and pretty. (9/09)
Granger 2002 Julinas Cuve Speciale (Beaujolais) Earthen more than brightly-fruited, which would seem to be the usual destiny of aging Julinas, and in a reasonably pleasant way. Early maturity? Yes, probably, though the resistant tannin might be an issue going forward. Theres a light within that gives hope, but this is a fairly muscular wine. (9/09)
Lapierre 2007 Morgon (Beaujolais) More soil and (absent the heat) dusted peppercorn than has been typical for this wine, the result of a slight diminishment of the delicate. I dont mean to suggest an absence of fruit, but a very slight change in the balance is all thats necessary for this wine to shift position. (8/09)
Lapierre 2008 Vin de Pays des Gaules (Beaujolais) Whats this wine all about, I asked my most reliable retailer. Green and acidic, he responded, or something along those linesand this is a guy with a store full of bottles that fans of pointy fermented goop would call exactly that. Well, he was right: its green, its overly sharp, its thin and edgy, and its not for everyone, or even for most. Is for anyone? Well, I suppose; its not far in structure from the Cuve Granit bottling that some like to call red Muscadet, but it doesnt have the nervy balance of that wine. Its the worst Lapierre Ive ever tasted, and while Id be happy with it served from carafe in some country bistro, Im not eager to pay a U.S. retail price for it again. (9/09)
JP Brun FRV 100 (Beaujolais) I didnt check the lot code on this bottle, but based on its performance I think it may be part of the previous years stock, rather than a new release. (Im not sure, however.) This suspicion comes from a slightly stumbling stick and chew to the fruit, which carries a little more residue than the fun freshness it usually has. A minor nitpick, perhaps, but then again this was never advertised as an ager. (8/09)
JP Brun Terres Dores 2007 Beaujolais Blanc (Beaujolais) Continuing to stand above the Beaujolais Blanc pack (admittedly, I dont even think Ive reached a half-dozen examples, although I have no idea how many wines labeled Mcon that Ive tasted have been secret brethren), due less to its rich, earthy aromatics than its more vibrant palate presence and firmer structure. Still one of my favorite French chardonnays, given a certain and deliberate personal poverty within that category. (9/09)
Granger La Jacarde 2008 Beaujolais Villages Blanc (Beaujolais) Pure chardonnay seen through the lens of Beaujolais: a simple, sweet melody rather than a concerto or symphony of flavor. Light and pretty. (9/09)
Granger 2002 Julinas Cuve Speciale (Beaujolais) Earthen more than brightly-fruited, which would seem to be the usual destiny of aging Julinas, and in a reasonably pleasant way. Early maturity? Yes, probably, though the resistant tannin might be an issue going forward. Theres a light within that gives hope, but this is a fairly muscular wine. (9/09)