Friday Night Burgs

Michel Abood

Michel Abood
Friday night I joined a buddy for a quiet little dinner at his place. But what should have been a relaxing, quiet evening ended up being an excuse for some fantastic wretched excess. Two guys + four bottles= one mean hangover the next day...

-2001 Guffens-Heynen Macon-Pierreclos "Le Chavigne"
The oak shows itself in a shy way, peeking up as more of a soft blanket than a wooden mallet, but it's still there. Oh yes, I can see you, you little mischevious barrel... Still, the fruit was lively and dancing over the oak, shining forth with some delicious, vibrant flavors on a slightly fat mouthfeel with some nice acidity and some minerality, like licking wet granite, and a medium-length finish. Very nice.

-1999 Jadot Corton Greves
At first, there was a bit of an herbal component that had both of us worried, but in the decanter this shook its green notes off and offered some hints of light red fruit and tons of minerality. In fact, the minerality here was almost overwhelming, like a huge, ancient moss-covered stone wall. Very closed but has some promise for the future.

-1993 Fontaine-Gagnard Pommard Les Rugiens
This was shy at first but soon blossomed into a lovely wine, with ruby fruits and rustic minerals bouncing around the palate with that delicious purity many 1993s get. I think if I'd been blinded I would have guessed Pommard, it also had that rustic power I sometimes associate with the village. Delicious.

-2001 Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche
After a week of hard work, I saw this winking at me in the Cave and decided to pop it. I know many folks aren't crazy about his CDR, but let's face it, it's Rousseau, he knows what he's doing with almost all his wines, and frankly I didn't give a damn. After breathing for the better part of 2 hours, this began ramping up its game, showering the palate with red fruits and berries, all contained in a minerally frame that washed down your throat, leaving behind not just a long finish but that haunting quality one gets from great Burgundy, that indelible after-image of something beautiful that hovers over your mid-palate like a teasing angel. I was swooning with this wine (at this point almost literally), and just letting sit on my tongue was pleasure enough, I didn't want it to end. But, alas, all good things come to an end, and this too soon became a longing memory.

What a great way to end a long, hard week of work.
Cheers!
 
Go, excess!

That Rousseau sounds, well, Rousseauian. Very thrilling.

I've never had any wines from Fontaine-Gagnard; is he considered more of a white producer? Or kif-kif?
 
My experience with the Fontaine-Gagnard Rugiens and the red Chassagne Clos St Jean has been quite good. They are difficult to find in the US market, IME.

All my notes on these have disappeared from Therapy, or I'd point you there.
 
originally posted by Michel Abood:
Friday Night Burgs-2001 Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche
...I know many folks aren't crazy about his CDR...

Who are they?!? Let them step forward so we may mock them.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
I thought the politburo kicked you off if you wrote about Burgundy here. Cab Franc and obscure Greek varietals are de rigeur, que no?

I have blackmailable pictures of a certain member (or two) in compromising positions with a certain wine critic who shall remain nameless.

And other Burgheads always say they don't like the Rousseau CDR, so I let them bitch and moan about it while I swoon over it. Let them step forward and I shall smite them. Smite them I tell you!
 
originally posted by Michel Abood:
other Burgheads always say they don't like the Rousseau CDR, so I let them bitch and moan about it while I swoon over it. Let them step forward and I shall smite them. Smite them I tell you!

I'll join you. The 1996 tasted earlier this year is everything a CdR should be.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
I thought the politburo kicked you off if you wrote about Burgundy here. Cab Franc and obscure Greek varietals are de rigeur, que no?

No, actually, it's the misuse of the word "varietal" that gets the politburo antsy.
 
originally posted by Thor:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
I thought the politburo kicked you off if you wrote about Burgundy here. Cab Franc and obscure Greek varietals are de rigeur, que no?

No, actually, it's the misuse of the word "varietal" that gets the politburo antsy.

I was waiting to see if there was going to be any official backlash about that. Seems quiet so far.
 
originally posted by Lee Short:
My experience with the Fontaine-Gagnard Rugiens and the red Chassagne Clos St Jean has been quite good. They are difficult to find in the US market, IME.

All my notes on these have disappeared from Therapy, or I'd point you there.

I had a few of these wines courtesy of Lee and was quite impressed. I've looked around for newer vintages without success.

We're have the A et P de Villaine 2005 La Digoine tonight. This is one '05 Burgundy that has not gotten too tight yet. It's a gorgeous wine.
 
Stepping up here to be mocked and smited. Every one I've had has been underwhelming. I'd take Brad's Mercurey in preference, even if it wasn't probably 1/10 the price.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Stepping up here to be mocked and smited. Every one I've had has been underwhelming. I'd take Brad's Mercurey in preference, even if it wasn't probably 1/10 the price.

Jay, are you referring to Fontaine-Gagnard? Oh, wait, I see you mean Rousseau. Is this a global Rousseau thing?
 
originally posted by Bwood:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Stepping up here to be mocked and smited. Every one I've had has been underwhelming. I'd take Brad's Mercurey in preference, even if it wasn't probably 1/10 the price.

Jay, are you referring to Fontaine-Gagnard? Oh, wait, I see you mean Rousseau. Is this a global Rousseau thing?

No, no, no. Just the Clos de la Roche. Love the Chambertin, CCdeB, and Ruchottes. Don't recall ever trying the CSt.J, Charmes or Mazis (I think they do a Mazis, right?). The Lavaux StJ is pretty darn good too.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Bwood:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Stepping up here to be mocked and smited. Every one I've had has been underwhelming. I'd take Brad's Mercurey in preference, even if it wasn't probably 1/10 the price.

Jay, are you referring to Fontaine-Gagnard? Oh, wait, I see you mean Rousseau. Is this a global Rousseau thing?

No, no, no. Just the Clos de la Roche. Love the Chambertin, CCdeB, and Ruchottes. Don't recall ever trying the CSt.J, Charmes or Mazis (I think they do a Mazis, right?). The Lavaux StJ is pretty darn good too.

Whew! A Burgundy difference with Jay Miller would have been unsettling, to say the least.

I can't say I ever remember having a Rousseau Clos de la Roche. I buy the standards, mostly in off vintages (like '04s), when I find a bottle or two. I actually really like the Lavaux St. Jacques. Although clearly only a retard with no sense of value like myself (or someone with bag fulls of money) would pay the stupid prices these wines command.
 
The nice thing is the CDR is quite good and not nearly as expensive as the others (read stupid cheap, like me). Jay, I shall see that challenge and one day open a 2001 Rousseau CDR for you and you shall be smotten. Or is smitten? Or both?
 
originally posted by Michel Abood:
The nice thing is the CDR is quite good and not nearly as expensive as the others (read stupid cheap, like me). Jay, I shall see that challenge and one day open a 2001 Rousseau CDR for you and you shall be smotten. Or is smitten? Or both?

I believe that the appropriate past participle is "smitten," though you can also find usages of "smote," but it's been awhile since I last cracked open a King James Edition, so anything is possible.

Mark Lipton
 
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