My First Rotgipfler

M

MLipton

Mark Lipton
OK, so I was weak a while back and actually sprang for a "sampler case" from Crush that included a few wines that I knew I wanted (such as the '07 Baudry Grezeaux). Tonight, in search of a wine to open with assorted leftovers, I turned to the '07 Stadlman Tagelsteiner Rotgipfler (Thermenregion), which turned out to be a highly viscous, if not downright oily, white with a strong nose of tropical fruits leaning toward the pineapple end of the spectrum. In many ways, it struck as a hypothetical cross of New World Pinot Gris and Viognier. Jean, who was sharing the bottle with me, found it difficult to get past the smell of "petrol," which I detected not a trace of. So, the questions: 1) Is this a typical Rotgipfler and 2) has anyone else got that petrol note that Jean couldn't get past?

Mark Lipton
 
I would say the oily viscous character and fruity notes is typical of this grape yes. But petrol has not crossed my mind the 2-3 times I have tasted this grape vinified single.

In the classical Gumpoldkirchen-blend the rotgipfler gave body and fruit while the Zierfandler gave frshness and acidity. Stadlmanns zierfandler can be quite nice.
 
1) Is this a typical Rotgipfler and 2) has anyone else got that petrol note that Jean couldn't get past?

Mark Lipton
Click to expand...

Here are my only two tasting notes for the grape, draw from them what you will. Although I didn't put it that way, I see what you mean about it resembling New World PG (of the fatter sort) plus Viognier. No petrol.

Rotgipfler Spatlese 1997, Thiel roast corn and applesauce aroma, good acidity, medium body, quite Vignoles like, interesting. ***

Rotgipfler-Zierfandler Thermenregion Klassik 2005, Spaetrot Gebeshuber intriguing nose of leafy vinous fruit underlaid with stony turned earth, with a smoky note developing; similar although mild flavor with good acidity and short totally dry finish with a touch of lime pith. Excellent with Saumon a lOseille, a well-structured, mild-mannered wine that with real food synergy. ***/****
 
From March 2004:

Biegler 2001 Rotgipfler Sptlese (Thermenregion) Starts off sweet, a little lurid, and generally pleasant, but no more. I put it aside. In classic Austrian fashion, the second day is an entirely different story: the syrup is gone, replaced by a juicy mineral core surrounded by sweet melon, celery, and white pepper buoyed by nice acidity. Long and interesting.
 
Thanks, all. I still can't say that I know quite what to make of it, but since there's a half bottle of it left in the fridge, I'll return to it this weekend to see if there's some form of transformation evident. As Egil says, I can see why it'd be blended with Zierfandler.

Mark Lipton
 
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