Recent stuff, hits and misses

Salil Benegal

Salil Benegal
Various highlights from the last couple of weeks

2007 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuve Tardive
A little tight at first but was really awesome after a while in the decanter with gorgeous cherry and strawberry flavours over earth, and faint meaty and floral notes that develop with some air. Silken in the mouth with really good acidity, light, refreshing and fantastic with Pepe's pizza.

1989 Domaine Monpertuis Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Tradition Vieilles Vignes
Notable for being the first bottle I've come across that was so bretty that the fact that it was badly corked as well wasn't apparent straight away!

1992 Trollat St. Joseph
Surprisingly dark in colour, showing no signs of its age with youthful dark fruited and black olive flavours merging seamlessly with leather, green herbs, ashy and earthy notes. There's a sense of calm here with a lightness of touch on the palate and good acids giving the flavours plenty of freshness.

2007 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph
Really great stuff, an incredibly silky, seamless package of black and white pepper, red and dark fruits and meaty/leathery notes with lots of finesse and clarity.

2008 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Sptlese "Anrecht"
Fantastic wine that I cannot drink enough of; packed with youthful apple, citrus fruit and peach flavours over a bed of minerals, with really good acidity giving it a sense of incredible brightness and energy in the mouth. Great balance and very light on its feet - I'm glad I have more as this is stunning value at under $25, and hard to go wrong with under a screwcap.

2008 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling "Rotlay"
Picks up where the 'Anrecht' leaves off but with a lot more intensity and power across the board. The fruit feels even riper and richer here (while still feeling incredibly fresh and precise) with some exotic floral and spicy elements also emerging with some air, the slatey minerality is even more intense and the finish is absurdly long and all slate and flowers. Amazing wine, probably my favourite from '08 so far.

2006 Joh. Jos. Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
AP #14-07. Opened several hours ahead of time to let the sulfur clear, and this is a really remarkable wine as this shows none of the heavy richness or botrytis I've seen in almost every higher-pradikat bottling in 06; instead the bright pineapple/other tropical fruit flavours come across as incredibly light and precise with faint touches of honey and flowers adding complexity, and an intense slatey mineral character underneath. There's a bright acid spine here that balances the sweetness very well and keeps it very elegant and light, to the point that it's shockingly food friendly for an '06 Auslese.

2008 Christian Ducroux Rgni Sans Soufre
Starts out with very tart, slightly underripe red berry fruit flavours over a spine of high acidity. With some air it fleshes out a little, gaining a little weight and showing some more interesting gravelly flavours, but generally remains quite bitter, stemmy and not particularly pleasant to drink.

2000 Pierre Gaillard Cte-Rtie Cuve Unique Viallieres
Frustrating as there's a nice core of rich plummy fruit accented with leathery, smoky and faintly gamey notes, but it's obscured by dominant oaky and vanilla flavours that blur out most of the other nuances here. Very disappointing, as I've liked some other Gaillard (regular) bottlings in the past but this was just ruined by its oak. (North Berkeley Import, fwiw)

2005 Dnnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Sptlese
Incredibly fun to drink, packed with bright peach, lime and pear flavours mingled with floral notes and touches of honey. Underneath there's really bright acidity and an intense minerality giving it an almost crystalline texture; light on its feet, precise and finishing very long.
 
originally posted by Salil Benegal:
2007 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuve Tardive
A little tight at first but was really awesome after a while in the decanter with gorgeous cherry and strawberry flavours over earth, and faint meaty and floral notes that develop with some air. Silken in the mouth with really good acidity, light, refreshing and fantastic with Pepe's pizza.
Had this a while ago and loved it, too. Though, don't know if I'd say it was light; I remember it being pretty hearty. It definitely took a while to open up. Ended up picking up two bottles to sock away for a while.

I don't know what kind of pizza Pepe's is, but I imagine this would cut through a pizza quite well.
 
originally posted by lars makie: I don't know what kind of pizza Pepe's is, but I imagine this would cut through a pizza quite well.

If I remember correctly, you are in Japan?

So you might not be aware of New Haven style pizza, but here are some links:


 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by lars makie: I don't know what kind of pizza Pepe's is, but I imagine this would cut through a pizza quite well.

If I remember correctly, you are in Japan?

Rahsaan, you don't have to live in Japan to not be aware of Pepe's pizza.
I honestly never heard of it until last week's Parade newspaper insert made mention of their clam pie, and then Dale W made reference to it as well. In all my slogs through southern New England, I never even encountered anyone breathing the name before. I wonder if the restaurant serves Montefalco Rosso as it's house wine?!
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by lars makie: I don't know what kind of pizza Pepe's is, but I imagine this would cut through a pizza quite well.

If I remember correctly, you are in Japan?

So you might not be aware of New Haven style pizza, but here are some links:


No, not in Japan. Though, in regards to pizza, it does feel like I'm floating on an island. I'm in Chicago. Thanks for the info on the pie.
 
originally posted by Salil Benegal:
originally posted by lars makie:
Though, in regards to pizza, it does feel like I'm floating on an island. I'm in Chicago.
Have you gone to Coal Fire on Grand or Spaccanapoli on the north side?
Yes and yes, both are pretty good. One of my favorites is actually a place called La Madia. I was taking a bit of artistic license with the above statement. It's not completely an island, maybe more like a peninsula with a few tasty islands in the distance. Alright, I'm done with the metaphors for the day.
 
Jeff, have you had the non-NBI versions of Gaillard? They're still not unoaked, but they're a lot less offensive. Or at least, they used to be. Don't know about today.
 
originally posted by Salil Benegal:
2007 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph
Really great stuff, an incredibly silky, seamless package of black and white pepper, red and dark fruits and meaty/leathery notes with lots of finesse and clarity.
I'm not onboard with the '07 yet. Really liked the '05 and '06, but this just didn't have the freshness and energy I was looking for. I'll try it again at some point, I'm sure.

And I'll pile on about the Trollat. Nice find.
 
I was not wise enough to stock up on Trollat when I could and I consumed what I did get too soon.
(self flagellation emoticon)
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Trollat... lucky you. Where did you find it?

Gaillard... you really liked other bottlings? They've all seemed kinda ho-hum to me.
The Trollat came from a generous friend's cellar.

Re. Gaillard, I've had a couple of other bottlings that were not brought in by NBI - opened the '99 Cote Rotie (regular) a few months ago, and it was a good wine that had a lot of what I'd expect from a Cote-Rotie.
 
Salil, have you tried selbach's 08 saar spatlese bottling yet? Picked one up today as I've read something postive on it somewhere but can't remember where - and I am curious.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Selbach Saar wine? Is that negociant?

Terry Thiese's catalogue says:

NOT-TO-BE-MISSED!
Note: This is not an estate-bottled Selbach-Oster wine, but rather a few casks they bought from a VDP estate on the Saar whom were not allowed to identify.

2008 Selbach Saar Riesling Sptlese +
A ridiculous bargain for old-vines steep slope pedigreed Saar wine; the loveliest pink grapefruit aroma; quinces, gentle slate, barely perceptible sweetness, just a delightful crisp refreshing Riesling!
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross: a few casks they bought from a VDP estate on the Saar whom were not allowed to identify.

Why all the secrecy? Is it cheaper than this VDP estate would normally cost?
 
originally posted by maureen:
Salil, have you tried selbach's 08 saar spatlese bottling yet? Picked one up today as I've read something postive on it somewhere but can't remember where - and I am curious.
Maureen, I haven't tried that (or other vintages) - but have generally heard good things. It's on my list of things to try.
 
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