2006 Weinbach Riesling Ste Catherine

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
2006 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace Cuve Ste Catherine 13.5%
Opened with great anticipation. Lovely vapors of honey, grapefruit, passion fruit, petrol and indistinct white flowers. Bracing acidity, mouth-filling thickness, slight touch of bitterness, acidity and sweetness in balance. Then why am I not as happy as I should be? Everything seems a bit too correct. Too Norse Goddess blonde-on-blonde. Idiosyncrasy playing in theaters nowhere. But midway through the meal, while chastising myself for being bored with perfection (stupid decadent bourgeois!), suddenly a sip makes me go whoa (however spelled). Inflorescence. Unexpected, like a dead cat bounce, the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Methinks it just needs to breathe, of course. But as it warms in the glass, it reverts to humdrum runaway model perfection. Good stuff, but what's a saint without miracles?
 
Had a '94 which was good but not great last week. I was bored by the 2nd glass. Preferred a Josmeyer from the same vintage.
 
As was discussed recently, possibly just predating your tenure, it's not their best source material. Sometimes they make it work. Sometimes they don't. More often, one gets what you're describing.

I too like "dead cat bounce" here. Nicely done.
 
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