Favorite Wines of 2009?

Steven Spielmann

Steven Spielmann
In the spirit of sharing I compiled a list of the wines that I enjoyed most during the last year, as well as I can reconstruct it from my notes and fickle memory anyway. I'd love to see some other people's lists using whatever categories you happen to favor!

Red: TIE - Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico 2006; Maison Anselmet Petit Rouge 2006&8; Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1998

Pink: Domaine Fontsainte Corbieres Gris di Gris 2008

White: Francois Pinon Vouvray Tradition 2006

US Red: Nalle Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2005

US White: Chateau Fontaine Leelanau White Riesling 2007

Sparkling: Phillippe Bornard Tant-mieux NV Vin de Table Francais

Dessert: Quinta do Infantado LBV Porto 2001
 
Yeah, I loved it too. If I had to pick one of these as my WOTY it would probably be that one. The '07 is slightly purer and more acidic, maybe 'better' in some absolute sense, but that '06 narrowly beat it out for pure enjoyment at least for me. Also loved a '04 Pinon Vouvray Sec, which was great to drink for contrast and to me expressed the same terroir in a more pure and piercing way.

So as not to appear a total Pinon shill I will say that I thought the two bottles of NV Touraine Rose I had were just good and that a 2002 Vouvray Tradition I opened had the most horrible green acid I've ever experienced - a flawed and totally undrinkable bottle.
 
Anselme Selosse Substance and 2007 Overnoy Poulsard were the wines for me that were in a class of their own. I also had '96s of both Joguet la Dioterie and Allemand Reynas that were stunners. Tie for 2006 Barral "Jadis" and Ollivier's Muscadets for wines that are actually reasonable to find.
 
I was there for that Joguet - a fine bottle indeed, and thank you very much for sharing!

I will seek out some Overnoy Poulsard and report back if I have any luck.
 
There are two bottles this year that stand out the most for me. A 1985 Pibarnon Bandol was the first Bandol I've tried that seemed fully mature, and still had a lot of the wild feral Mourvedre thing going on. A real pleasure to drink.

The second was a 2001 Allemand Cornas sans soufre. The Allemand was nowhere near ready, but it had an amazing layered complex nose, with gardenias and a purity of fruit that was quite memorable.
 
Between the quantity of wine and the failing memory (who knows what I had this year and what I had last year?) it's hard to say.

But on the premise that the wines that pop into my mind when the question is asked have some claim to the honor I'll list

2002 M. Ollivier 'Clos des Briords'
2004 M. Ollivier 'Clos des Briords'
???? Prufer 'Avanti Popolo'
2008 Clos Roche Blanche Gamay
1934 Henriques & Henriques- Madeira Verdelho
1924 Huet- Vouvray Moelleux, Le Haut-Lieu (but only after 20 minutes in the decanter)
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:

2008 Clos Roche Blanche Gamay

Yum. I had this and cellared one for curiosity.

I drank a lot of Ollivier (regular bottling, cuvee eden, and briords) earlier this year and last year and it's the weirdest thing. I know I enjoy them when I drink them but over time my memory of them grows painful. I have no idea why this is. I know intellectually that if I opened and drank one now I would enjoy it but something in me winces at the idea. Maybe it's the slight briny element? I just have no idea. Come springtime I suspect I'll buy more and go through this again though.
 
originally posted by Steven Spielmann:
originally posted by Jay Miller:

2008 Clos Roche Blanche Gamay

Yum. I had this and cellared one for curiosity.

I drank a lot of Ollivier (regular bottling, cuvee eden, and briords) earlier this year and last year and it's the weirdest thing. I know I enjoy them when I drink them but over time my memory of them grows painful. I have no idea why this is. I know intellectually that if I opened and drank one now I would enjoy it but something in me winces at the idea. Maybe it's the slight briny element? I just have no idea. Come springtime I suspect I'll buy more and go through this again though.

Try putting a few bottles down for a 5-10-20 years. The '02 and '04 are certainly still young but after an hour or so open they're magical.
 
The Prufer (Les temps de cerises) Avanti Popolo is terrific. I believe it is non-vintage.

I really liked Mouressipe's non-vintage Cuve Galapia, a jubilant 60% Alicant/40% Cinsault blend from the Languedoc. The other two wines that made the biggest impression on me this year were a bottle of 2001 Josef Leitz Rdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling, which was just outstanding, and a 2005 Ezio Voyat Chambave "Le Muraglie Rosso."
 
I would be hard pressed to say my favorite wine from last year, but the one that was magical to me; which made me want to punch the air, jump up and down and shout out expletives (but instead I just sat there with a huge smile on my face) was the 2006 Crozes-Hermitage from Dard et Ribo. Hauntingly beautiful... It's quite possible I would have never searched for this and some of my other favorite wines this past year had it not been for this board and the blogs that some of you have. So, um, thanks.

Others that I loved this last year and had had their way with me: 2007 Lapierre Morgon, 2008 Dashe l'Enfant, 2001 Movia Puro and the 2007 Paolo Bea Santa Chiara.

And since wine is best enjoyed with others, I think I would have to say that my favorite place that I shared some wine this past year would be with our brother Putnam in his kitchen in my hometown of Detroit. I had a great time hearing him recall Noella Morantin's charms whilst opening a bottle of Mon Cher. Good times.
 
Best wine sharing experiences - another good category.

I went on a trip to the Lake Superior wilderness with some European friends and a couple of cases. Best memories: 2007 Baudry Granges, 2005 Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges, 2003 Luigi Einaudi Barolo Costa Grimaldi, 2001 Roumieu-Lacoste "Selection Andre Dubordieu" Sauternes. Plus some of the aforementioned Pinon, a yearlong companion.
 
originally posted by Steven Spielmann: Favorite Wines of 2009? I'd love to see some other people's lists using whatever categories you happen to favor!

Steven, Egads! My memory fails me.

A few that stick out in my mind, though, are...

Beaulieu Vineyards PR Cabernet Sauvignon '68
Ridge Geyserville '03
Ridge Pagani Ranch Zin '04
Ch de Beaucastel '90 and '94
Jamet Cote Rotie '99
Guigal Ex-Voto Hermitage Blanc '01
Ch Montrose '83
Dom Ramonet Les Caillerets Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru '03
Dom Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru '00
Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin '85
Ch d'Yquem '03

. . . . Pete
 
Some nice wines, Peter. You remind me of a couple others I enjoyed...a '69 Charles Krug "Vintage Select" Cabernet that was very well-preserved, stately and Paulliac-like. The '06 Ridge Geyserville was very nice, maybe the best burger wine I've had (why does that sound like damning with faint praise? maybe we undervalue burgers?). And, alas, a carefully hoarded bottle of Grivot was brutally corked - but that's a 2008 memory, so I shall pass it by.

I wonder, if one keeps this up for years, can one organize a memory palace out of wines that connect to particular places and times?

Speaking of fickle memory, another thread just reminded me of a '98 Pegau I drank that was pretty amazing. Might have to put that up there with my top reds...
 
Trimbach CFE 1990 - twice and it showed beautifully each time
Morot Beaune Marconnets 1988 - in a perfect spot
Trimbach Pinot Gris Hommage Georgette Trimbach 1996 - just yum
Ch. Margaux 1979 - now this is nice Bordeaux!

all of the above bought by me upon release and cellared all these years to great effect - justifies the waiting

Maison Leroy La Romane 1955 - this one I found in the basement of a store that had acquired a cellar - paid all of $50 plus dc sales tax for it in 2001 - tattered label and big ullage - and delicious!
 
originally posted by maureen:
Trimbach CFE 1990 - twice and it showed beautifully each time
Morot Beaune Marconnets 1988 - in a perfect spot
Trimbach Pinot Gris Hommage Georgette Trimbach 1996 - just yum
Ch. Margaux 1979 - now this is nice Bordeaux!

all of the above bought by me upon release and cellared all these years to great effect - justifies the waiting

Maison Leroy La Romane 1955 - this one I found in the basement of a store that had acquired a cellar - paid all of $50 plus dc sales tax for it in 2001 - tattered label and big ullage - and delicious!

I have always wondered about that 96 hommage georgette, which I've not touched since release - I understand it'a a fairly rich wine, how is the acidity ? And where is it in terms of evolution, colour, secondary aromatics, etc. ? Thx
 
Lars brought some desperately needed provisions earlier this past year. I have never been a heroin junkie, but I think that is the metaphor I'm looking for, how can I describe the feeling when I saw the set of Paolo Bea wines he brought. I almost dropped my bike helmet. Somewhere I have a picture of Lars with a case under one arm and a face - the face - part Nosferatu part real live hell demon.

Tha, -at being said ... I wonder if my wine of the year wasn't a 1997 Giaconda Chardonnay from Victoria. I'm under contract so I can't comment any further.
 
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