Ampeau 1989 Savigny-les-Beaune (Burgundy) The pulse and throb of subsurface earth provides a foundation for a deep, glowering wine hinting at both animal and berry in equal measure, and both in the best possible sense. Its maturing, for certain, and the beautiful aromatics one desires from aged Burgundy are already in evidence, but I dont sense any hurry in the wine, and so cannot recommend any sort of panicked rush to open what one might own. A very, very pleasant wine. (12/09)
Faiveley 1993 Mercurey La Framboisire (Burgundy) Very tannic when uncorked, and while this fades somewhat over the course of the evening, it never recedes enough to bring the wine into full balance. Despite that, the fruitfaded for the first half-hour or so, but making a gradual recovery familiar to fans of aging red Burgundyis fairly dark and purple-toned. What it isnt is very strong or fleshy, so its hard for me to judge if its going to last until something more aromatically mature develops, or whether its just fading. What I do know is that this bottle will likely never find balance with its tannin. And heres an important caveat: the owner of this bottle (not me) thinks that theres a possibility it experienced some minor heat effects at an earlier stage, so the above descriptors may have little or nothing to do with an intact bottle. (12/09)
Louis Tte 1997 Moulin--Vent (Beaujolais) Shrilly acidic, to the point that it causes a bit of reflux. Its just too old, and whats left is hard, harsh, tired, and not much fun at all. Remnants of a very soil-based aromatic profile linger, as well as some dark berry squeezings, but if youve still got any, I hope its in an icy cellar. (12/09)
H. Billiot Champagne Ambonnay Brut Cuve Laetitia (Champagne) Apples, red cherries, raspberries, and flowers. Round, with vivid acidity. Very, very long. This flows. (12/09)
Druet 1996 Bourgueil Les Cent Boisseles (Loire) Peppers (mostly bell, but also seed), green grass, and dirt slowly eroding into a wind that carries the black pepper into oblivion. Strappy, apple skin-textured tannin has been stretched at the seams of this wine, which is holding but about to fall apart, I think. Still, theres a certain dignity to the wine, and only those who require some sort of identifiable primary fruit to enjoy a wine will fail to see the interest here. (12/09)
Luneau-Papin 1997 Muscadet Svre & Maine Sur Lie Clos des Alles Vieilles Vignes (Loire) Corked. (12/09)
Bodegas 3 Sueos Sexto 2005 Terra Alta (Catalua) Sexto for the six grapes: garnacha, carignan, tempranillo, and then small additions of cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and lledoner pelut noir. No, Ive never heard of it either. The wine itself is an affable fruit bomb, dark, plummy, and full of berried bursts and lush obviousness. Perhaps a sprinkle of pepper as well. Theres a little bit of structure clinging to an outcropping waaaay off to the side, but its a bit player at best. Fun. (12/09)
Faiveley 1993 Mercurey La Framboisire (Burgundy) Very tannic when uncorked, and while this fades somewhat over the course of the evening, it never recedes enough to bring the wine into full balance. Despite that, the fruitfaded for the first half-hour or so, but making a gradual recovery familiar to fans of aging red Burgundyis fairly dark and purple-toned. What it isnt is very strong or fleshy, so its hard for me to judge if its going to last until something more aromatically mature develops, or whether its just fading. What I do know is that this bottle will likely never find balance with its tannin. And heres an important caveat: the owner of this bottle (not me) thinks that theres a possibility it experienced some minor heat effects at an earlier stage, so the above descriptors may have little or nothing to do with an intact bottle. (12/09)
Louis Tte 1997 Moulin--Vent (Beaujolais) Shrilly acidic, to the point that it causes a bit of reflux. Its just too old, and whats left is hard, harsh, tired, and not much fun at all. Remnants of a very soil-based aromatic profile linger, as well as some dark berry squeezings, but if youve still got any, I hope its in an icy cellar. (12/09)
H. Billiot Champagne Ambonnay Brut Cuve Laetitia (Champagne) Apples, red cherries, raspberries, and flowers. Round, with vivid acidity. Very, very long. This flows. (12/09)
Druet 1996 Bourgueil Les Cent Boisseles (Loire) Peppers (mostly bell, but also seed), green grass, and dirt slowly eroding into a wind that carries the black pepper into oblivion. Strappy, apple skin-textured tannin has been stretched at the seams of this wine, which is holding but about to fall apart, I think. Still, theres a certain dignity to the wine, and only those who require some sort of identifiable primary fruit to enjoy a wine will fail to see the interest here. (12/09)
Luneau-Papin 1997 Muscadet Svre & Maine Sur Lie Clos des Alles Vieilles Vignes (Loire) Corked. (12/09)
Bodegas 3 Sueos Sexto 2005 Terra Alta (Catalua) Sexto for the six grapes: garnacha, carignan, tempranillo, and then small additions of cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and lledoner pelut noir. No, Ive never heard of it either. The wine itself is an affable fruit bomb, dark, plummy, and full of berried bursts and lush obviousness. Perhaps a sprinkle of pepper as well. Theres a little bit of structure clinging to an outcropping waaaay off to the side, but its a bit player at best. Fun. (12/09)
