Anniversaire: Tome 2: Cote d'Or by bike

BJ

BJ
OK, I pick up where we left offsomewhere near Joes place!

Day Four - We headed out of Cruzille and stopped by some of the amazing Cluniac churches in the area Brancion, Chapaize these are finely formed Romanesque churches from the 1200s. We then hopped onto the Voie Vert, a great converted old rail line that extends all the way from Cluny up to Chalon and then actually heads west along the Canal du Midi (incidentally, I heard a bit about extensive bike similar trails underway throughout France and other Euro countries, pretty exciting, Id say an amazingly beautiful and fast way to move through the countryside).

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We hopped off the Voie to head into Mercurey, and headed up over the back very rough roads into Rully. Then down, back onto the Voie along the Canal, and finally, we arrive at the southern end of the Cote dOr, in Chassagne.

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I managed to pick up the Bourgogne chambres dhotes guide along the way and it was very helpful late that afternoon we tried a chambres dhotes in Puligny, where we ended up staying. 49 euro, great value.

We hopped on the very minor old D route that parallels the N86 to the west in Chassagne this proved to be a great route, with some detours, almost the entire length of the Cote. Beautiful, easy, untrafficed riding I would say even if youre in Beaune, rent a bike and spend the day riding it is very easy. There is now a well signed Cote dOr bike route that would be easy to follow and takes you all the way there.

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Watched sun set over Meursault eating picnic dinner from our gitedrinking a lovely Durieul Rully 1er blanc, cant remember which.

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Day Five Early start to get into Beaune to mess around. I had copied the great maps in Coates Burgundy book and had them in order on my handlebar bag simply yanked off each one as we went along by the end of the day, my brother was sick of me saying We had a wine from that vineyard two months ago, or whatever but it was fun.

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The weather this day was rough we hung out in Beaune for a while, ate a crappy lunch (how did we manage that?), stopped at Magnum wines, bought a couple of bizarre wines (a 94 Jadot St. Romain and a 92 Chevalier Corton Rouget, both of which proved excellent, esp. the Corton, which was a meaty wonder), and headed out of town only to be greeted by lightning. Ended up getting to Ladoix, where we took cover for an hour while a monsoon passed. Rain on and off all the way into Dijon, riding through the glorious prime vineyards of the Cote dNuits.

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Tome 3 will be the final and will include the Burgundy Canal and Chablis.
 

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Chapaize is a shrine and one of my favorite spots in the world. Absolutely incredible how the chapel dominates the Grosne valley.

8 prong tourism!
 
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This bike is serious old school - much like my own. Brings back pleasant memories of first reading of bike touring in Europe in Eugene A Sloane's "Complete Book of Bicycling" when I was in High School. I haven't done the bike tour thing in Europe - yet, but looking forward to it some day. Great pictures, great post. Thanks.
 
originally posted by JasonA:
Old School
IMG_0875-1.jpg
This bike is serious old school - much like my own. Brings back pleasant memories of first reading of bike touring in Europe in Eugene A Sloane's "Complete Book of Bicycling" when I was in High School. I haven't done the bike tour thing in Europe - yet, but looking forward to it some day. Great pictures, great post. Thanks.

The bike is a custom Rivendell built about 10 years ago - built roughly on Grant's old LongLow geometry, with some beefing up for touring and commuting. It was built by Curt Goodrich at Match here in the Seattle area, and I actually took the day off to hang out with him while he built the main triangle and some other pieces. My other bikes are: 1958 Raleigh Sport, 1964 Raleigh Superbe, 1971 Gitane Tour de France (which very nearly was what I brought on the this trip), and a 1978 Erickson road. I was a bike mechanic in the early/mid 80s, back in bike's analog era, and have no desire to progress. What do you ride?

Some here may find the Rivendell site of interest, even if you're not into biking - they are my all time favorite company: www.rivbike.com

Re Euro tour: I have dreamed of a Euro bike tour for way too long. I spent a year in college in Scotland, and have been back 7-8 times...and I finally did it this year. All I can say is, don't EVEN wait. It is one of the single best weeks I've had over there.

I think I'd always been put off by the logistical hassle, and while it is a hassle, it's not mega. Carefully thinking through transitions before hand makes it not too bad. We flew into CdG, rented a car right there, chucked the bike in the back of the car, drove to Condrieu, had the bike that week there, drove the car w/bike into Lyon, left the car, rode the bike for a week up to Auxerre, and then rented another car in Auxerre which we used to get back to CdG a week later. I did have to repack the bike and find a box at a shop in Auxerre, but it really wasn't a big deal. Took maybe an hour and a half to find zip ties and repack the bike. Only got charged $50 on the way over for oversize, not on the way back. At CdG they said the box wouldn't fit in the xray machine and threatened to make me unpack it so they could hand inspect it, and then thought better of it and just waived it through (yes, I had a huge box on a transatlantic flight that went unxrayed and uninspected)...

So - don't put it off. My brother and I were already planning a two week trip on the Scottish west coast for our next adventure...
 
originally posted by Brad L i l j e q u i s t:
Old School
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The bike is a custom Rivendell built about 10 years ago - built roughly on Grant's old LongLow geometry, with some beefing up for touring and commuting. It was built by Curt Goodrich at Match here in the Seattle area, and I actually took the day off to hang out with him while he built the main triangle and some other pieces. My other bikes are: 1958 Raleigh Sport, 1964 Raleigh Superbe, 1971 Gitane Tour de France (which very nearly was what I brought on the this trip), and a 1978 Erickson road. I was a bike mechanic in the early/mid 80s, back in bike's analog era, and have no desire to progress. What do you ride?

Rivendell, should have guessed - the Brooks Pro saddle and what looks like an old TA triple crank set through me off. From what I could make out of the lug work I would of guessed Holdsworth.

I am riding a custom Witcomb that I built from the frame up starting in (gulp) 1975. I still ride sew-ups, even in NYC. Almost bought the Peugeot PX-10 (the Ford/Mercury)version of the Gitane Tour De France back in the day. I believe I had one of those Raleigh Sports - 3-speed right? The so called "English Racer". I was training on that thing prior to my first big ride, "The Mount Hamilton Challenge", while I was scraping together the last parts/money to finish the bike.
 
originally posted by JasonA:
originally posted by Brad L i l j e q u i s t:
originally posted by JasonA:

Rivendell, should have guessed - the Brooks Pro saddle and what looks like an old TA triple crank set through me off. From what I could make out of the lug work I would of guessed Holdsworth.

I am riding a custom Witcomb that I built from the frame up starting in (gulp) 1975. I still ride sew-ups, even in NYC. Almost bought the Peugeot PX-10 (the Ford/Mercury)version of the Gitane Tour De France back in the day. I believe I had one of those Raleigh Sports - 3-speed right? The so called "English Racer". I was training on that thing prior to my first big ride, "The Mount Hamilton Challenge", while I was scraping together the last parts/money to finish the bike.
Actually a Brooks B17 Narrow...and indeed an old TA crank. And you're right...almost the exact color of the Holdsworth classic blue...though up close a little greener and nicer...

I am in awe that you are riding sew-ups in NYC.

Yes, the Raleighs are 3 speed - the Superbe is actually a 4 speed, using a very rare version of the Sturmey Archer hub.
 
They are difficult to read and I like the bike-geekiness.

I'm not a cycling geek myself, but live vicariously.
 
originally posted by VLM:
Please edit your repliesThey are difficult to read and I like the bike-geekiness.

I'm not a cycling geek myself, but live vicariously.

What you talkin bout Willis?
 
originally posted by JasonA:
originally posted by VLM:
Please edit your repliesThey are difficult to read and I like the bike-geekiness.

What you talkin bout Willis?

You and Brad both put your new comments inside quotes, which makes it hard (at least for us bears of very little brain) to figure out who is saying what and when they said it.

Cheers,

Dave
 
You and Brad both put your new comments inside quotes, which makes it hard (at least for us bears of very little brain) to figure out who is saying what and when they said it.

Cheers,

Dave

Got it. Is that better? (We could really use a preview function here)

Jason
 
originally posted by VLM:
Please edit your repliesThey are difficult to read and I like the bike-geekiness.

I'm not a cycling geek myself, but live vicariously.

It thrills me to bring together at least a couple of my geek worlds. And if it brings others pleasure, so much the better.

Do look at the www.rivbike.com site just to bathe in geekdom of the most archetypal sort.
 
originally posted by JasonA:
You and Brad both put your new comments inside quotes, which makes it hard (at least for us bears of very little brain) to figure out who is saying what and when they said it.

Cheers,

Dave

Got it. Is that better? (We could really use a preview function here)

Jason

It has been mentioned. And re-mentioned. And re- re-, oh never mind.
 
Wonderful posting, but there is no Canal du Midi in Bourgogne AFAIK. Canal de Bourgogne may have been what you meant (spent a wonderful week on that and the Saone river in 97). Also cruised on the Midi in 2000, at that time I started in Agdes and ended up somewhere around Toulouse with not a Pinot Noir vine in sight.
 
originally posted by Odd Rydland:
Midi?Wonderful posting, but there is no Canal du Midi in Bourgogne AFAIK. Canal de Bourgogne may have been what you meant (spent a wonderful week on that and the Saone river in 97). Also cruised on the Midi in 2000, at that time I started in Agdes and ended up somewhere around Toulouse with not a Pinot Noir vine in sight.

Sorry, Canal du Centre.
 
For the one year anniversary, perhaps noone cares, just nice to see some france photos. The talk of St. J's made me think back.
 
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