A surprisingly successful 97 S. Rhone

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BJ
This is generally one of my least favorite vintages in this area, so this was a nice surprise.

97 Trignon Gigondas. This was actually a delightful wine - a rare successful S Rhone 97. Really nice dark sap, a bit of leather in the finish, old viney, a Burgundian elegance. Handled the year well, but betrayed its difficulties- with an aspect of stunted ripeness. But it integrated that well and was a very nice wine.
 
originally posted by BJ:
A surprisingly successful 97 S. RhoneThis is generally one of my least favorite vintages in this area, so this was a nice surprise.

97 Trignon Gigondas. This was actually a delightful wine - a rare successful S Rhone 97. Really nice dark sap, a bit of leather in the finish, old viney, a Burgundian elegance. Handled the year well, but betrayed its difficulties- with an aspect of stunted ripeness. But it integrated that well and was a very nice wine.
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Drank the '95 of that a couple weeks ago and found it lovely.
 
I liked the '97 Chateauneuf's I had, Pegau Reservee and Clos des Papes. Definitely a lighter vintage, however they were well-balanced and far from over-the-top. I suspect those wines might be over-the-hill now as I drank mine several years ago and they were ready then.
 
I just read on decanter that one of the problems with '97 in the south was low acidity...and you mention stunted ripeness, BJ. What's your general consensus of the year?
 
For me '97 was indeed a low acid year, but also seemed flawed in the sense that the grapes didn't reach full maturity - sort of like a junior version of 03. This wine was impressive in its balance given the year. Two vintages I find fascinating, especially right now given they are at what I consider their optimal points in age, is 96 and 97. Both vintages were seriously maligned. I love 96 as a whole; many producers really did well and I find its cooler tone just lovely right now. Much interest and a vintage I think many here would really fall for. Most producers seemed to struggle a bit with 97, with wines veering off into a flacid mess that doesn't hold together the way a vintage like 00 does, which even though was low acid hangs together without much flaw. The only two S. Rhone 97's I've had that really struck me have been this and CNP Les Cailloux, tho that bottle was many years ago.
 
It is endlessly fascinating to see how wines actually develop vs what the those with crystal balls have to say at the time of release. I'll keep my eyes open for '96's, they sound intriguing.

What do you think of the '98 Gigondas vintage? I only have had a few Moulin de Gardette (Cuvee Ventabren) from that year, but I absolutely love that wine, for all the things "Southern Rhone" about it...it's beasty, but ripe enough without being OTT...and pulls off being both rustic and elegant at the same time exceedingly well. Lovely silky mouthfeel.
 
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
It is endlessly fascinating to see how wines actually develop vs what the those with crystal balls have to say at the time of release. I'll keep my eyes open for '96's, they sound intriguing.

What do you think of the '98 Gigondas vintage? I only have had a few Moulin de Gardette (Cuvee Ventabren) from that year, but I absolutely love that wine, for all the things "Southern Rhone" about it...it's beasty, but ripe enough without being OTT...and pulls off being both rustic and elegant at the same time exceedingly well. Lovely silky mouthfeel.
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I love this wine too. There is oak in the elevation, but I can't find it. I like it in 99 and 01 as well. But it became pricier and to my taste more over the top in recent years.
 
Well, I think 98 is great in Gigondas - but I also really like some of the cooler vintages down there (96, 93, 88, 86). It just depends on what you are looking for.

And I see Larry's note now and I have to be honest and say I haven't had Pegau or Clos des Papes, or for that matter really that many 97s. Those I've had I haven't cared for. The 96s have been great, with the exception being la Gardine.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
It is endlessly fascinating to see how wines actually develop vs what the those with crystal balls have to say at the time of release. I'll keep my eyes open for '96's, they sound intriguing.

What do you think of the '98 Gigondas vintage? I only have had a few Moulin de Gardette (Cuvee Ventabren) from that year, but I absolutely love that wine, for all the things "Southern Rhone" about it...it's beasty, but ripe enough without being OTT...and pulls off being both rustic and elegant at the same time exceedingly well. Lovely silky mouthfeel.
Click to expand...

I love this wine too. There is oak in the elevation, but I can't find it. I like it in 99 and 01 as well. But it became pricier and to my taste more over the top in recent years.
Click to expand...

Yes, the oak is hard to find...."old Allier barrels" is what is written on their website. It is also written that this is supposed to be a 20 year wine, but the last bottle (last year) was hitting all the right spots so well, one wonders how it could improve (I've got one bottle left...I guess it won't make it through 2010). PS - I believe I picked these up for mid $30's per btl.

BJ, I think you're right about watching for cooler vintages as well...and I can see how some of these S. Rhones could be more interesting. My palate has shifted so much in the last 2 years, that I hardly look at Rhone stuff these days, but a shift in strategy might bring more back into the cellar...for those hankerings.
 
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
It is endlessly fascinating to see how wines actually develop vs what the those with crystal balls have to say at the time of release. I'll keep my eyes open for '96's, they sound intriguing.

What do you think of the '98 Gigondas vintage? I only have had a few Moulin de Gardette (Cuvee Ventabren) from that year, but I absolutely love that wine, for all the things "Southern Rhone" about it...it's beasty, but ripe enough without being OTT...and pulls off being both rustic and elegant at the same time exceedingly well. Lovely silky mouthfeel.
Click to expand...

I love this wine too. There is oak in the elevation, but I can't find it. I like it in 99 and 01 as well. But it became pricier and to my taste more over the top in recent years.
Click to expand...

Yes, the oak is hard to find...."old Allier barrels" is what is written on their website. It is also written that this is supposed to be a 20 year wine, but the last bottle (last year) was hitting all the right spots so well, one wonders how it could improve (I've got one bottle left...I guess it won't make it through 2010). PS - I believe I picked these up for mid $30's per btl.

BJ, I think you're right about watching for cooler vintages as well...and I can see how some of these S. Rhones could be more interesting. My palate has shifted so much in the last 2 years, that I hardly look at Rhone stuff these days, but a shift in strategy might bring more back into the cellar...for those hankerings.
Click to expand...

The barrels may well have gotten older, in which case, I'll have to check back in. I've mostly been drinking the tradition in recent years. I got the 98 ventabren on a closeout for $15, but I really can't believe it would sell less than for the mid 30s since the 06 costs 19 Euros at the domaine, not as much as Haut des Montmirails or Cuvee Florence, much less the named cuvees of St. Cosme, but still... Generally, there are still traditional Gigondas makers like Raspail-Ay, Trignon and Gour de Chaul that I favor. I share with Parker a taste for St. Damien, I admit, but then I can't find oak and weirdness in them despite the presence of Cambie as enologue.
 
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