Velich (Moric) is the master of this grape variety and has done more than anyone to elevate it. The altereben is the best, and also the most $$$. I have a bit of the '03 alter kaker and if any Wine Disorder folks are visiting south Hollywood pre-warn me and I'll bring a bottle to my place for us to enjoy. Also good are Juris, especially the vineyard designated wines with a few years of age. The one thing to remember about this grape variety is that historically it never had to rise to any level of quality, as it was mostly consumed locally in a fresh, young, gluggy style, so I don't think we quite know what the upper limits for it are. Thor, for a frooty and delicious blau try Pfneizel's kekfrankos; not exactly valdigue but still tons of fruit. The other wines I mentioned are, as you suggested, not so fruity. Spaetrot Gebeshuber also really good, but their white wines (zierfandler, rotgipfler) are even better.