kirk wallace
kirk wallace
Was blown away by these 2 this weekend. If you have some, or see some, I'd say, pull the cork.
2002 Brundlmayer (I'd love to learn how to get the umlaut) Heiligenstein Alte Reben. Astounding balance; slate and yellow fruit without a single wrong note. This has to please both rock heads and those who like a little yellow fruit with their riesling -- after a lovely nose of white flowers and lemon peel, lime flower and white pepper. Seems fully mature but giving no signs of decline. Almost as good the next night, minerality and fruit still in balance with no oxidation showing.
2000 FX Pichler Kellerberg Smaragd; 3d time I've had this wine in the past year or 2; its been good before, but this bottle was perfect. Shocked me at how laser-like the focus is, even for FXP. I don't like FXP's 2000 Loibner Berg very much at all, and even Hirtzberger's 2000 Singerriedel seemed a bit clumsy last time I had it, but this Kellerberg made me laugh out loud. Drank it pretty quickly with cheese at lunch and afterwards, so didn't get to see how it developed, but over 40 minutes it continued to gain depth and complexity without giving up any of its ability to light up every corner of my mouth almost weightlessly.
(The FXP followed a very nice bottle of '95 Uccelliera Brunello; i think this wine is at its peak drinking point; lovely dark cherry and just a touch of leather; everything was working in harmony here after 20 minutes in decanter.)
2002 Brundlmayer (I'd love to learn how to get the umlaut) Heiligenstein Alte Reben. Astounding balance; slate and yellow fruit without a single wrong note. This has to please both rock heads and those who like a little yellow fruit with their riesling -- after a lovely nose of white flowers and lemon peel, lime flower and white pepper. Seems fully mature but giving no signs of decline. Almost as good the next night, minerality and fruit still in balance with no oxidation showing.
2000 FX Pichler Kellerberg Smaragd; 3d time I've had this wine in the past year or 2; its been good before, but this bottle was perfect. Shocked me at how laser-like the focus is, even for FXP. I don't like FXP's 2000 Loibner Berg very much at all, and even Hirtzberger's 2000 Singerriedel seemed a bit clumsy last time I had it, but this Kellerberg made me laugh out loud. Drank it pretty quickly with cheese at lunch and afterwards, so didn't get to see how it developed, but over 40 minutes it continued to gain depth and complexity without giving up any of its ability to light up every corner of my mouth almost weightlessly.
(The FXP followed a very nice bottle of '95 Uccelliera Brunello; i think this wine is at its peak drinking point; lovely dark cherry and just a touch of leather; everything was working in harmony here after 20 minutes in decanter.)