Bonneau de Martray 1998 Corton (Burgundy) Half a wine. Sweaty, dirty-sex aromas are prematurely clipped. A petal-like texture caresses and soothes, and then a tiny appendage of structure clasps its fist shut. Theres a good deal of acidity thats never quite integrated into the wine, nor does it seem in balance with anything else available for eventual marriage. Theres plenty here thats appealing, but overallI just dont know. (8/08)
Rosi 2004 Marzemino Riserva (Trentino) Difficult, and by that I dont mean to criticize the wine. But its difficult. Angular yet muscular (not quite wiry; more like a Romanian gymnast), it broods in darkness and sullen faux-apathy, seemingly uncaring as to its performance. But it lingers, hanging around to at last give a hint of aromatic fruit, of earth, of graphite, of mountain blossoms. All the elements seem in balance, but theres nothing of coherence or approachability to be found. Obviously, it requires time. Its not very enjoyable now. (8/08)
Chaussard (Briseau) Nana, vins et cie 2006 Coteaux du Loir You are so beautiful (Loire) Tense. Pretty, but nervous, with lovely red fruit and the numb snap of Sichuan peppercorn, done up in edgy colors and quavering textures. This is really very appealing, and seems to bend and twist to conform to a rather wide range of culinary partners, but its bracingly drinkable by itself, too. The label real wine is sometimes applied to wines like this, and here theres good reason: its a verywiny wine, if that makes any sense. (8/08)
Jouffreau Clos de Gamot 1998 Cahors (Southwest France) Corked. (8/08)
Resses Chteau la Caminade 2004 Cahors (Southwest France) Weirdly spacious, with snaky tannin and charred fruit draped on a wall opposite the one that carries a bright, berries-in-the-sun flavor with considerable acidity. The dominant impression is one of structure, and I just dont know if theres the balance or interest in integration to bring the disparate elements together. This wine needs a vinous Brown v. Board of Education. (8/08)
Brokenwood Cricket Pitch 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Shiraz (South Eastern Australia) This isnt grenache? Gluggable and full of jam-scented fruit and Froot, and while I cant believe this is made from the grapes from which its made, I can believe its from where its from. Theres nothing wrong with this wine for those who like this sort of expression, but for an Old World palate this is a struggle. A highly drinkable struggle. (9/08)
Barone Cornacchia 2005 Montepulciano dAbruzzo (Abruzzi) Open and crisp, with freshly-crushed raspberries in a U-shape of food-welcoming simplicity. What you taste is all you get, but its a good, cheap companion for a night. (8/08)
Terrier Domaine des 2 nes 2005 Corbires Fontanilles (Languedoc) Sweaty, leathery, and a little bretty, with that barnyardy-metallic fog somewhat obscuring twisted fruit that seems like it should be darker than it is; this very deception is a signature of this appellation, at least for me. Gnarly, and not in a Jeff Spicoli sort of way. Id like to see it cleaned up a bit, but if one can get past that the elements are quite appealing. (9/08)
Great Wall 2000 Red (China) Horrid. Bandwidth doesnt exist to list all the faults and failures in evidence here. Jean Harris would have loved this stuff. (9/08)
Lafage 2005 Vin de Pays des Ctes Catalanes Ct Grenache Noir (Roussillon) A huge burst of gum-flavored grenache-y fruit, as if the grape had been turned into that chewing gum with the liquid center (Bubble-Yum or something like that?). Very pleasant, very easy, very fun. Dont look for more, because it aint there. (8/08)
Rosi 2004 Marzemino Riserva (Trentino) Difficult, and by that I dont mean to criticize the wine. But its difficult. Angular yet muscular (not quite wiry; more like a Romanian gymnast), it broods in darkness and sullen faux-apathy, seemingly uncaring as to its performance. But it lingers, hanging around to at last give a hint of aromatic fruit, of earth, of graphite, of mountain blossoms. All the elements seem in balance, but theres nothing of coherence or approachability to be found. Obviously, it requires time. Its not very enjoyable now. (8/08)
Chaussard (Briseau) Nana, vins et cie 2006 Coteaux du Loir You are so beautiful (Loire) Tense. Pretty, but nervous, with lovely red fruit and the numb snap of Sichuan peppercorn, done up in edgy colors and quavering textures. This is really very appealing, and seems to bend and twist to conform to a rather wide range of culinary partners, but its bracingly drinkable by itself, too. The label real wine is sometimes applied to wines like this, and here theres good reason: its a verywiny wine, if that makes any sense. (8/08)
Jouffreau Clos de Gamot 1998 Cahors (Southwest France) Corked. (8/08)
Resses Chteau la Caminade 2004 Cahors (Southwest France) Weirdly spacious, with snaky tannin and charred fruit draped on a wall opposite the one that carries a bright, berries-in-the-sun flavor with considerable acidity. The dominant impression is one of structure, and I just dont know if theres the balance or interest in integration to bring the disparate elements together. This wine needs a vinous Brown v. Board of Education. (8/08)
Brokenwood Cricket Pitch 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Shiraz (South Eastern Australia) This isnt grenache? Gluggable and full of jam-scented fruit and Froot, and while I cant believe this is made from the grapes from which its made, I can believe its from where its from. Theres nothing wrong with this wine for those who like this sort of expression, but for an Old World palate this is a struggle. A highly drinkable struggle. (9/08)
Barone Cornacchia 2005 Montepulciano dAbruzzo (Abruzzi) Open and crisp, with freshly-crushed raspberries in a U-shape of food-welcoming simplicity. What you taste is all you get, but its a good, cheap companion for a night. (8/08)
Terrier Domaine des 2 nes 2005 Corbires Fontanilles (Languedoc) Sweaty, leathery, and a little bretty, with that barnyardy-metallic fog somewhat obscuring twisted fruit that seems like it should be darker than it is; this very deception is a signature of this appellation, at least for me. Gnarly, and not in a Jeff Spicoli sort of way. Id like to see it cleaned up a bit, but if one can get past that the elements are quite appealing. (9/08)
Great Wall 2000 Red (China) Horrid. Bandwidth doesnt exist to list all the faults and failures in evidence here. Jean Harris would have loved this stuff. (9/08)
Lafage 2005 Vin de Pays des Ctes Catalanes Ct Grenache Noir (Roussillon) A huge burst of gum-flavored grenache-y fruit, as if the grape had been turned into that chewing gum with the liquid center (Bubble-Yum or something like that?). Very pleasant, very easy, very fun. Dont look for more, because it aint there. (8/08)
