Weekend Wines...

lars makie

lars makie
In which I meet and share some wines with a local Disorder(ly) lurker and his wife. Some of the wines showed a bit better than other, but all were downed happily.

Starter: 2005 Domaine Belluard Ayse Brut Zero Terroir du Mont-Blanc Savoie. This was brought over by our guest, who I believe purchased it from Garagiste. I was completely unaware of this producer until quite recently (I believe it was mentioned here somewhere not long ago). A quick search reveals that it is made from 100% Gringet grown Bio-dynamically. I think it was a bit too cold at first, as it wasn't as floral or expressive at it became later, as it warmed up a bit. The last glass had a depth and caress and still a crispness that makes me want to spend some more time getting to know it.

Interlude: NV Lini Lambrusco Ros. Pretty much bogarted by my wife who wanted to keep the bubbly train rolling. Dark, red fruit. A bit too sweet for me this evening. I've had this before and can enjoy it, especially with food.

Main: 2007 Dard et Ribo Crozes-Hermitage and 2007 Dard et Ribo St. Joseph. When my guest told me he had the '07 St. Joseph and that he was thinking of bringing it over, I was super excited to say the least. I also thought it would be fun to open the Crozes (which I had recently found) to do a side by side tasting; and fun it was (especially with the homemade pork rillets our guests brought as well). Trying to compare the two at first pour was nearly impossible. At first they were incrementally different. They were both dark, raspberry red; both had a slight barnyard-y funk to them. Really the only visible difference was that the Crozes was cloudier than the St. Jo. As time went on though, I found myself falling for the St. Jo. The Crozes was good but even by itself, I think that's all it would have been: good. I'm a bit suspicious of the storage of the place I bought it. I just don't think they give the care (especially with regards to the temperature) that something like this needs. Maybe I'm holding it too close in regards to the '06 I had not too long ago, but that's really not it because the St. Jo... The St. Jo! Amazing! To steal a phrase, it's goes straight to the dome (or something like that). Straight to my dome it went, gave me it's number, kissed me on the way out and told me to call it next time I'm in town. It showed much younger than the Crozes; tight, tannic, rustic. All mushroom-y, black olive, syrah-ness. My notes say youthful, energetic, lips tingle. Yes, it made my lips tingle. Fuckin-a right!

Closer: 2007 Movia Lunar. Bullshit orange, hipster, bio-hippy-dippy, lunar-cycle, dance-around-the-maypole wine... Just kidding. It's as good as everyone has been saying. If anything, it's a bit more polite than I had been expecting; it's a fucking pretty wine. Not as tannic or as more as say the Rusticum but more suave than the regular Coenobium. I think some of this has to do with Ales using Ribolla to make the Lunar, you can feel a bit of that grape's weight here; there's a honeyed quality that I haven't got in some of the other orange wines I've had. And not as much of that almond-apricot-pit bitterness. But somehow, deep, deep in the back, in the nosebleed seats, there's this hint of fucking spearmint that somehow manages to get into every Movia white.

All in all a great way to spend a Saturday night. Though Sunday wasn't all that great, especially for my wife who left after our guests went home to go drink a bottle of Edi Kante Malvasia with some friends of hers. She was definitely in the hurt locker the next day.
 
Lars,

Unless I'm mistaken, I seem to recall that you are in Chicago? If so, I need to ask- did you find the Dard & Ribo and the Movia locally? Or did you have to search further afield? I've seen Kristancic's wines here in the Chicago metro area, but not those from Dard & Ribo. Is there some Chicago wellspring of hipster wine with which I am unfamiliar?

By the way, I've long been impressed by the number of wines from Louis/Dressner, Jon-David Headrick, etc. that are carried by Binnys, now the only real "big-box" retailer in the area. You've gotta hand it to her, Barbara Hermann knows (and will buy) good wine.
 
The still wine they make from Gringet is worth trying also, I enjoyed it very much. Mineral and aromatic and racy, but with pretty good concentration too.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
BelluardThe still wine they make from Gringet is worth trying also, I enjoyed it very much. Mineral and aromatic and racy, but with pretty good concentration too.
Sounds great... I'll have to keep an eye out for it. Thanks.
 
originally posted by Aaron:
Is there some Chicago wellspring of hipster wine with which I am unfamiliar?

Yeah, it's called "New York".

I've never seen Dard & Ribo locally either. Movia's easier to find, although I'd be curious where that Lunar came from.

BTW, a little wine birdie told me that Cream Wine is dropping the Headrick portfolio. So, if you like what you see at Binny's, buy 'em while they're still around...
 
Cream's ditching JD Headrick? But they're the hippest, coolest distributor in the region! They built their business model on cool! You can always tell a Cream rep by his/her distressed messenger bag, hornrims, and classic suit jacket-over-a-Bonnaroo-teeshirt attire. Also, nobody else locally has reps who regularly refer to Washington as "Wah state" and Walla Walla as "Walla Squared," etc. As for their wines, well... it's more about the lifestyle, isn't it? Just ask Charles Smith.

Naw, they have some nice wines - but fewer if they drop JDH. I've liked several of his producers, notably Vincent Ogereau and Benedicte de Rycke in the Loire, and Francoise Bedel in Champagne. Guess I'll have to fill the void with more Chidaine, Pinon, and Larmandier-Bernier... I suppose there are worse fates...
 
I know - I just cracked a Touraine Ct from J-F Merieau last week that was singing. It's going to be a real fucking drag to have to ration my remaining bottles. The rumour comes from a reliable source, although I didn't hear any details.

*Cool* is clearly a positional thing - there will still be plenty of obscure, status wine around to support the Cream front...
 
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