Finca Sandoval 2001 Manchuela (Central Spain) 93% syrah, 7% mourvdre. Giant, with both jam and tannin still quite dominant, but theres balance here as well, and some really nice graphite starting to emerge. But while it improves with air, this is still extremely primary. (7/09)
Berroia 2007 Bizkaiko Txakolina (Northwest Spain) Im speaking from limited experience, but the txakolis from Bizkaiko seem to be a touch riper and fruitier than those from Getariako, albeit at the cost of some of the zippy foam and froth that so often mark the latter. More research is required. As for this wine, its fruit is on the crisp, brittle side green apple, grapefruit, lime rind, all of it in the treble register and the structure is one of lightly-applied brevity. (12/09)
Txomin Etxaniz 2007 Getariako Txakolina (Northwest Spain) Always one of the more restrained, bony txakoli, like the white paper wrapping for a wine rather than the wine itself, this is especially held-back Im given to understand by its vintage, which encourages this void-revealing transparency. Its hard to either like or dislike this too much. It just sort of is. (12/09)
Isastegi 2008 Sagardo Naturala (Northwest Spain) Sting and razor-swipe cider, with a texture of pollen and blades and a lightning-flash green finish. Parched. This is a great excitement to drink. (12/09)
Losada Fernndez Pena do Lobo 2008 Ribeira Sacra (Northwest Spain) Red apples and raspberries, with a cranberry tartness to the acidity. Thin in odd places and at odd moments, with gritty tannin that takes a steadier path through the wines length. Good, if a bit awkward, but needs food. (1/10)
Darian 2006 Rioja (Center-North Spain) Straightforward, entry-level Rioja. Red fruit, sun-weakened, over clumps of tan soil and indefinite pepper dust. Some oak. A fair wash of acidity. Pleasant, but not much more. (1/10)
Quinta de Ventozelo 2006 Douro Vinzelo (Douro) Bridges an older, increasingly outmoded style of Portuguese red (prematurely fatigued and sun-baked) with the newer, more pristine, more confident style. Theres ripe fruit from purple berries, edging up to a sticky barrier but rarely drifting into its corpulent muck for long, a general lack of structure, and as the last drop is drained, little other than a pleasant memory. Yeah. That was a wine. I drank it. (1/10)
J. Portugal Ramos Marqus de Borba 2007 Alentejo (Portugal) Tight purple and red berries in equal measure, some licorice, and a bit of black olive, but fading and tiring. Yes, already. Perhaps a damaged bottle, perhaps just a wine that was best at release, but the structure is already clinging to life better than the exterior trappings of fruit. (1/10)
Aveleda Charamba 2007 Douro (Douro) Weedy, astringent, and pretty awful. (1/10)
Berroia 2007 Bizkaiko Txakolina (Northwest Spain) Im speaking from limited experience, but the txakolis from Bizkaiko seem to be a touch riper and fruitier than those from Getariako, albeit at the cost of some of the zippy foam and froth that so often mark the latter. More research is required. As for this wine, its fruit is on the crisp, brittle side green apple, grapefruit, lime rind, all of it in the treble register and the structure is one of lightly-applied brevity. (12/09)
Txomin Etxaniz 2007 Getariako Txakolina (Northwest Spain) Always one of the more restrained, bony txakoli, like the white paper wrapping for a wine rather than the wine itself, this is especially held-back Im given to understand by its vintage, which encourages this void-revealing transparency. Its hard to either like or dislike this too much. It just sort of is. (12/09)
Isastegi 2008 Sagardo Naturala (Northwest Spain) Sting and razor-swipe cider, with a texture of pollen and blades and a lightning-flash green finish. Parched. This is a great excitement to drink. (12/09)
Losada Fernndez Pena do Lobo 2008 Ribeira Sacra (Northwest Spain) Red apples and raspberries, with a cranberry tartness to the acidity. Thin in odd places and at odd moments, with gritty tannin that takes a steadier path through the wines length. Good, if a bit awkward, but needs food. (1/10)
Darian 2006 Rioja (Center-North Spain) Straightforward, entry-level Rioja. Red fruit, sun-weakened, over clumps of tan soil and indefinite pepper dust. Some oak. A fair wash of acidity. Pleasant, but not much more. (1/10)
Quinta de Ventozelo 2006 Douro Vinzelo (Douro) Bridges an older, increasingly outmoded style of Portuguese red (prematurely fatigued and sun-baked) with the newer, more pristine, more confident style. Theres ripe fruit from purple berries, edging up to a sticky barrier but rarely drifting into its corpulent muck for long, a general lack of structure, and as the last drop is drained, little other than a pleasant memory. Yeah. That was a wine. I drank it. (1/10)
J. Portugal Ramos Marqus de Borba 2007 Alentejo (Portugal) Tight purple and red berries in equal measure, some licorice, and a bit of black olive, but fading and tiring. Yes, already. Perhaps a damaged bottle, perhaps just a wine that was best at release, but the structure is already clinging to life better than the exterior trappings of fruit. (1/10)
Aveleda Charamba 2007 Douro (Douro) Weedy, astringent, and pretty awful. (1/10)