Faraud Domaine du Cayron 1998 Gigondas (Rhne) Powerful, and beautifully poised between its axe-hewn youthful structure and the richer, blood-on-stones development that comes with age. The fruit may be reddish, the herbs green, the soil grey, but the heart and soul of this wine are of the deepest black. Theres no lack of still-vibrant tannin. Very, very good. (12/09)
Lucien Le Vieux Donjon 1994 Chteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhne) From a very cold cellar, so read what follows in that context. This is very difficult, with still-sludgy tannin and a concentrated, reductive, nearly impenetrable density. There would seem to be a great deal of iron, blood, and compacted earth within, and the wines very long on the finish, but theres also a glossy sheen to the exterior that I dont care for at all. Judgment completely reserved. (1/10)
Fraud Domaine du Pgau 1994 Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Rserve (Rhne) From a very cold cellar, so read what follows in that context. Rounding into form, but not yet done describing that arc. Classic earth, underbrush, meat, and antique funk heavy on the meat, with just a little bit of stink; only the truly brett-averse will cavil in a somewhat heavy-handed but not leaden package. The weight of the hand comes from an overabundance of structure, and I dont know that the wines other elements will outlast that structure. But its enjoyable enough to drink now, so if this is an anxiety, why wait? Otherwisewait. Not too long. (1/10)
Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert 1998 Crozes-Hermitage (Rhne) Hard as these always are, but much more generously aromatic than they have been of late. Rhne syrah, unquestionably, with the nanoparticle leather and dried remnants of dark green herbs, but adding that wall of structure so inimitably Jabouletesque. Quite appealing, but youve gotta like tannin. (1/10)
Allemand 1998 Cornas Reynard (Rhne) Imported by Vieux Vins. A roomful of wine geeks doesnt think this is corked, save one holdout, but given the grudging, sullen performance of the wine, that holdout might as well be correct. Theres nothing here. Obviously not an intact bottle. (1/10)
Miquel Domaine de Barroubio 2004 Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois Dieuvaille (Languedoc) The classic Dover Cliffs-infused floral sweetness with structural icicles and frost patterns within, adding a great deal of textural complexity to what is usually a fairly straightforward wine. Theres also a lower-toned throb of additional depth thats only apparent late in the finish, and given all that plus a fine acidic backbone, I wonder if this might not be ideally situated for transformation in the years to come. Well, Ill never get to find out, as this is my only bottle. (1/10)
Miquel Domaine de Barroubio 2004 Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois (Languedoc) From 375 ml. Every time I have a good muscat from either this or the Beaumes-de-Venise appellations, I wonder why I dont drink more of them. Ennui, probably; theres a wide world of sweet options out there. But when, for example, a St-Jean is on, theres just something so sweetly pretty about it, and yet theres that rocky background that makes it something more than Yet Another Sweet Muscat. This particular bottle is in-your-face, but its polite about it, and is a complete blast to drink. (12/09)
Jasmin 1996 Cte-Rtie (Rhne) Washed out, overly acidic, and just generally awful. I doubt, based on several similar experiences, that there is anything in this wine that could possibly improve with more time. However, there are others that report positive experiences with this wine from different importers; this is the Chadderdon bottling. (12/09)
La Cave Les Costires de Pomerols Saint-Peyre 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Viognier (Languedoc) Despite suggestions of the lurid/lotiony floral notes typical of viognier, this tastes more like one of the regions picpouls than it does viognier. For many, this will be a good thing, and in fact the acid and general crispness are positives, but the consequence is that those honeysuckle elements that are present dont quite integrate with the rest of the wine. Perhaps viognier does need to be just a little bit sticky (not sweet, but texturally adhesive) for its best expression, whether or not everyone likes that expression. Its not a bad wine, though, and I suspect some will quite enjoy it. (1/10)
Clos du Mont-Olivet 2007 Ctes-du-Rhne Serre de Catin (Rhne) Approachable despite fairly hefty tannin, with all the Ctes-du-Rhne signatures in place and otherwise in balance. Finishes long and solid. Its good as a cocktail wine, and lightens just enough with (strongly-flavored) food to support dining. I guess this is the sort of thing the vintage-hypers are referring to when they extol the top-to-bottom quality of 2007 Rhnes, but as ever the actual performances will be more complicated than that. This could age for a while, I suspect, but its probably a better reflection of its intentions if consumed in its exuberant youth. (1/10)
Charvin 2004 Ctes-du-Rhne Le Poutet (Rhne) Reliably solid, basic Ctes-du-Rhne aromas of underbrush, slightly desiccated red fruit, and that faded combination of earth and animal that transcends brett to become a regional signature. But this isnt really a rote Rhne, eitherinstead, its a sensitive, very pure expression of what is always a forceful aromatic package done with delicacy and restraint. Its still a southerly wine, with all the richness that implies by its context, but in that context its just a little bit lighter than air. This is the sort of wine of which one could drink rather a quantity. (12/09)
Costires & Soleil Slectionn par Laurence Fraud 2005 Plan Pgau Vin de Table (Rhne) After a number of very poor showings, my most recent two bottles have evidenced a bit of a comeback. Perhaps I judged prematurely. In any case, there continues to be no obvious reason to hold onto these wines longer than the time it takes to drink them, for as the structure fades, the dark and sloshy fruit remains firmly in place, yet with someones hand pulling back on the fader. A fair quaff. (12/09)
Leydier Cuve Slectionne par Kermit Lynch 2007 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse (Rhne) Corked. (12/09)
Lucien Le Vieux Donjon 1994 Chteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhne) From a very cold cellar, so read what follows in that context. This is very difficult, with still-sludgy tannin and a concentrated, reductive, nearly impenetrable density. There would seem to be a great deal of iron, blood, and compacted earth within, and the wines very long on the finish, but theres also a glossy sheen to the exterior that I dont care for at all. Judgment completely reserved. (1/10)
Fraud Domaine du Pgau 1994 Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Rserve (Rhne) From a very cold cellar, so read what follows in that context. Rounding into form, but not yet done describing that arc. Classic earth, underbrush, meat, and antique funk heavy on the meat, with just a little bit of stink; only the truly brett-averse will cavil in a somewhat heavy-handed but not leaden package. The weight of the hand comes from an overabundance of structure, and I dont know that the wines other elements will outlast that structure. But its enjoyable enough to drink now, so if this is an anxiety, why wait? Otherwisewait. Not too long. (1/10)
Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert 1998 Crozes-Hermitage (Rhne) Hard as these always are, but much more generously aromatic than they have been of late. Rhne syrah, unquestionably, with the nanoparticle leather and dried remnants of dark green herbs, but adding that wall of structure so inimitably Jabouletesque. Quite appealing, but youve gotta like tannin. (1/10)
Allemand 1998 Cornas Reynard (Rhne) Imported by Vieux Vins. A roomful of wine geeks doesnt think this is corked, save one holdout, but given the grudging, sullen performance of the wine, that holdout might as well be correct. Theres nothing here. Obviously not an intact bottle. (1/10)
Miquel Domaine de Barroubio 2004 Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois Dieuvaille (Languedoc) The classic Dover Cliffs-infused floral sweetness with structural icicles and frost patterns within, adding a great deal of textural complexity to what is usually a fairly straightforward wine. Theres also a lower-toned throb of additional depth thats only apparent late in the finish, and given all that plus a fine acidic backbone, I wonder if this might not be ideally situated for transformation in the years to come. Well, Ill never get to find out, as this is my only bottle. (1/10)
Miquel Domaine de Barroubio 2004 Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois (Languedoc) From 375 ml. Every time I have a good muscat from either this or the Beaumes-de-Venise appellations, I wonder why I dont drink more of them. Ennui, probably; theres a wide world of sweet options out there. But when, for example, a St-Jean is on, theres just something so sweetly pretty about it, and yet theres that rocky background that makes it something more than Yet Another Sweet Muscat. This particular bottle is in-your-face, but its polite about it, and is a complete blast to drink. (12/09)
Jasmin 1996 Cte-Rtie (Rhne) Washed out, overly acidic, and just generally awful. I doubt, based on several similar experiences, that there is anything in this wine that could possibly improve with more time. However, there are others that report positive experiences with this wine from different importers; this is the Chadderdon bottling. (12/09)
La Cave Les Costires de Pomerols Saint-Peyre 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Viognier (Languedoc) Despite suggestions of the lurid/lotiony floral notes typical of viognier, this tastes more like one of the regions picpouls than it does viognier. For many, this will be a good thing, and in fact the acid and general crispness are positives, but the consequence is that those honeysuckle elements that are present dont quite integrate with the rest of the wine. Perhaps viognier does need to be just a little bit sticky (not sweet, but texturally adhesive) for its best expression, whether or not everyone likes that expression. Its not a bad wine, though, and I suspect some will quite enjoy it. (1/10)
Clos du Mont-Olivet 2007 Ctes-du-Rhne Serre de Catin (Rhne) Approachable despite fairly hefty tannin, with all the Ctes-du-Rhne signatures in place and otherwise in balance. Finishes long and solid. Its good as a cocktail wine, and lightens just enough with (strongly-flavored) food to support dining. I guess this is the sort of thing the vintage-hypers are referring to when they extol the top-to-bottom quality of 2007 Rhnes, but as ever the actual performances will be more complicated than that. This could age for a while, I suspect, but its probably a better reflection of its intentions if consumed in its exuberant youth. (1/10)
Charvin 2004 Ctes-du-Rhne Le Poutet (Rhne) Reliably solid, basic Ctes-du-Rhne aromas of underbrush, slightly desiccated red fruit, and that faded combination of earth and animal that transcends brett to become a regional signature. But this isnt really a rote Rhne, eitherinstead, its a sensitive, very pure expression of what is always a forceful aromatic package done with delicacy and restraint. Its still a southerly wine, with all the richness that implies by its context, but in that context its just a little bit lighter than air. This is the sort of wine of which one could drink rather a quantity. (12/09)
Costires & Soleil Slectionn par Laurence Fraud 2005 Plan Pgau Vin de Table (Rhne) After a number of very poor showings, my most recent two bottles have evidenced a bit of a comeback. Perhaps I judged prematurely. In any case, there continues to be no obvious reason to hold onto these wines longer than the time it takes to drink them, for as the structure fades, the dark and sloshy fruit remains firmly in place, yet with someones hand pulling back on the fader. A fair quaff. (12/09)
Leydier Cuve Slectionne par Kermit Lynch 2007 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse (Rhne) Corked. (12/09)