TN : a fly in winter

MarkS

Mark Svereika
Winter needs nice warming wines. Wines to warm the heart, perhaps give heat to the face and ones that let you know they are there. Here are some that fit the bill, giving that little beat that skipped the heart.

Domaine de Mourchan, Sguret - Cotes du Rhone Villages,'Grande Reserve' 2006
Inky colored. Blueberry/blackberry compote aromas, but denser on the nose than on the palate. This is already ready-to-go, and despite the 15% alcohol and density, this has good balancing acidity and is well-integrated in a New Worldish kinda way, but not overblown. B+/A-

COS, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, 'Pithos', 2006
Lightish pale red color.Restrained nose of saline, preserved Chinese plum and floral background notes. In the mouth, there is a constant austerity and drying tannins...perhaps I opened this too soon? Plum skin and plum pit, but missing the pulpy fruit flesh, this is a very honed to the bone wine. At the end comes some chokecherry and a perfumed floral scent. 13% If I had another, I'd try it again in 2-3 years.

Paolo Bea, Umbria IGT, 'Santa Chiara' bianco, 2006
If ever there was a winter white, this would be one. A true 'orange wine', the color here is a honeyed, medium-deep amber. Restrained nose of garnega hops and field mint, like walking through a field of mint, Beeman's Pepsin gum. Interesting texture on the palate, unheavy but with definate weight. Dried hay/straw, an orange spiked with cloves in mulled wine, very tannic on the finish, like drinking the dregs from fresh apple cider. 13.5% A-

Masciarelli, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 'Marina Cvetic', 2001
Deep blackish red. This wine is like an old muscle car, strutting it's power, revving-up the engine in front of yo face because it CAN, and doesn't give a damn if you don't like it. Black cherry, spicy plum and licorice on both the nose and palate. Dense without being heavy or greasy, good acidity, dusty tannins. Drinking very well right now, but can definately be aged longer, but I doubt with improvement. 14.5% A- BTW, can anyone tell me how 'Cvetic' is pronounced? The best I've come up with is something like 'sche-tich'.

Bruno Giacosa, Barbera d'Alba, 'Falleto', 2005
Floral black cherry and licorice, beautiful aromatics and lovely balance and weight. Drinking excellently right now. 14% A-

Cuvee du Vatican, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2001
Very mute nose open opening. Mixed berry jam, prune, straw, and Amarone-like flavors on the palate. 15% alcohol noticeable after only half a glass. Firmish tannins clamp down on the end, making me question the ageability of this. Missing complexity, and freshness. B

Struzziero, Taurasi, 'Acuto di Soprano', 1999
Dark bing-cherry red with maroonish highlights. Stinky cheese aromas along with granite and Cherry Hering liquor. Strong and austere, like an old Roman marble statue, pupil-less eyes gazing into the distance beyond you. Cherry juice is licking granite stone and there is some tangy blood sausage along with a nicely acidic finish. Strong and a little rustic, powerfully built. Drinking well now, but could be even better in 5-7 years. 13% A-
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Bea has quite a line-up of wines these days.
Best, Jim

Yes, unfortunately, they are becoming priced out of my comfort zone (insert sad emoticon here).
 
Mark,
Maybe 15 years ago, we went to Italy - Umbria, to be precise. At that time, sagrantino was virtually unknown in the states but it was ubiquitous in Umbrian restaurants - and cheap.
I suspect we drank near a case of the stuff, from different producers, while we visited. I tried to get it when we got back home and no one had it.
How times change. Now, I notice Bea's is $85 and up.
Best, Jim
 
Love that Bea. Different every time I go to it, but unlike some of its orange brethren, never disappointing. (At least, not yet. I probably shouldn't tempt fate.)
 
originally posted by Thor:
Love that Bea. Different every time I go to it, but unlike some of its orange brethren, never disappointing. (At least, not yet. I probably shouldn't tempt fate.)

Definitely one of the highlights of the genre.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
BTW, can anyone tell me how 'Cvetic' is pronounced? The best I've come up with is something like 'sche-tich'.

In Slovene, Cvetič would be pronounced /tsve-titch/, because "c" is pronounced /t͡s/ and "č" is pronounced /t͡ʃ/.

COS is awesome. I have sadly only ever tried the Beas in a big, hurried, walkabout tasting, but I felt it was a property I would like to get better acquainted with.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
originally posted by Thor:
Love that Bea. Different every time I go to it, but unlike some of its orange brethren, never disappointing. (At least, not yet. I probably shouldn't tempt fate.)

Definitely one of the highlights of the genre.

Do you not miss the old, straight Santa Chiara at all?
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
originally posted by Thor:
Love that Bea. Different every time I go to it, but unlike some of its orange brethren, never disappointing. (At least, not yet. I probably shouldn't tempt fate.)

Definitely one of the highlights of the genre.

Do you not miss the old, straight Santa Chiara at all?

Yup. Especially since now I have to pony up for an Arborius to get it.

(ok, not quite. but there is a strong similarity to what I remember of the SC pre-orange and the glycerol weight of the Arborius)
 
originally posted by Seth Hill:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
originally posted by Thor:
Love that Bea. Different every time I go to it, but unlike some of its orange brethren, never disappointing. (At least, not yet. I probably shouldn't tempt fate.)

Definitely one of the highlights of the genre.

Do you not miss the old, straight Santa Chiara at all?

Yup. Especially since now I have to pony up for an Arborius to get it.

(ok, not quite. but there is a strong similarity to what I remember of the SC pre-orange and the glycerol weight of the Arborius)

OK, that's just weird.
 
originally posted by MarkS:


Paolo Bea, Umbria IGT, 'Santa Chiara' bianco, 2006
If ever there was a winter white, this would be one. A true 'orange wine', the color here is a honeyed, medium-deep amber. Restrained nose of garnega hops and field mint, like walking through a field of mint, Beeman's Pepsin gum. Interesting texture on the palate, unheavy but with definate weight. Dried hay/straw, an orange spiked with cloves in mulled wine, very tannic on the finish, like drinking the dregs from fresh apple cider. 13.5% A-

Great note, Mark. I've not had the wine, but I think this also comes very close to describing some of the more enjoyable orange wines I've had. If someone asked me what good orange wine tastes like, I would show them your tn.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
originally posted by Thor:
Love that Bea. Different every time I go to it, but unlike some of its orange brethren, never disappointing. (At least, not yet. I probably shouldn't tempt fate.)

Definitely one of the highlights of the genre.

Do you not miss the old, straight Santa Chiara at all?

I don't know that I ever had it. Maybe once.

I don't follow Bea closely. Frankly, I'm put off by Bea's pricing in general, and I prefer to reach for Milziade Antano when the moment comes for Sagrantino. The way the allocations work with Bea, as I don't buy much, I don't buy any. I think I may have had the SC pre-orange at 'inoteca, but maybe not. Anyway, I'm sorry I didn't get to know it better.
 
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