Gugniard Domaine de la Bergerie 2007 Anjou Sous la Tonnelle (Loire) Ripe, sweaty, and a little lurid. Aromatically sultry, with its bones wrapped in soft velvet and a long, prehensile tail. Very flavorful, not very structured, and while the present is rich with experience, I wonder what the future holds. (1/10)
Forsoni Poderi Sanguineto I e II Vino de Tavola Bianco (Tuscany) Lot 04/09. Hot. Decayed flowers and guttered raindrops, with that ever-present alcoholic fume dominating no matter what the temperature. I love Sanguinetos reds, but am a more than a little repelled by this effort. (1/10)
Sipp Mack 2004 Gewurztraminer Tradition (Alsace) Soft and pretty. A rose-scented expression of gewurztraminers feminine side. Its still flavorful, but undemanding, and everything in support of those roses is B-plot, not the main narrative. (1/10)
Le Piane 2005 Colline Novaresi La Maggiorina (Piedmont) Not quite as bony and red-rieslingish as previous vintages, and while the wines less distinctive as a result, its also better. Theres some flesh on these bones still chilly and nanoparticulate in texture cast in intriguingly dark fruit and floral tones, but not heavy, hard, or even muscular. Rather, theres elegance, firmness, and stability. A lovely wine. (1/10)
Oppida Aminea Caucino 2005 Greco Sannio (Campania) Ashen and somewhat oxidizednot, I think, unintentionallyand thus the wine flows more like lava than like water across the palate. Bronzed carnations, perhaps? Like drinking ruins. (1/10)
Losada Fernndez Via Caneiro 2007 Ribeira Sacra (Northwest Spain) A very complete wine, with full-throated mass but without overwhelming density. The fruit is dark and brooding, though there are leafier, petaled elements within, and the texture is of powder hinting at graphite. Theres plenty of acidity, as well. A really nice wine. (1/10)
Ravents I Blanc 2005 Cava lHereu Reserva Brut (Catalua) Deep, nutty, and rich, with yeasted lemons and fine structure. A sophisticated bubbly, not too demanding, but with good presence. (1/10)
Forsoni Poderi Sanguineto I e II Vino de Tavola Bianco (Tuscany) Lot 04/09. Hot. Decayed flowers and guttered raindrops, with that ever-present alcoholic fume dominating no matter what the temperature. I love Sanguinetos reds, but am a more than a little repelled by this effort. (1/10)
Sipp Mack 2004 Gewurztraminer Tradition (Alsace) Soft and pretty. A rose-scented expression of gewurztraminers feminine side. Its still flavorful, but undemanding, and everything in support of those roses is B-plot, not the main narrative. (1/10)
Le Piane 2005 Colline Novaresi La Maggiorina (Piedmont) Not quite as bony and red-rieslingish as previous vintages, and while the wines less distinctive as a result, its also better. Theres some flesh on these bones still chilly and nanoparticulate in texture cast in intriguingly dark fruit and floral tones, but not heavy, hard, or even muscular. Rather, theres elegance, firmness, and stability. A lovely wine. (1/10)
Oppida Aminea Caucino 2005 Greco Sannio (Campania) Ashen and somewhat oxidizednot, I think, unintentionallyand thus the wine flows more like lava than like water across the palate. Bronzed carnations, perhaps? Like drinking ruins. (1/10)
Losada Fernndez Via Caneiro 2007 Ribeira Sacra (Northwest Spain) A very complete wine, with full-throated mass but without overwhelming density. The fruit is dark and brooding, though there are leafier, petaled elements within, and the texture is of powder hinting at graphite. Theres plenty of acidity, as well. A really nice wine. (1/10)
Ravents I Blanc 2005 Cava lHereu Reserva Brut (Catalua) Deep, nutty, and rich, with yeasted lemons and fine structure. A sophisticated bubbly, not too demanding, but with good presence. (1/10)