Per Berger...Sad Decline of Cabernets

Peter Creasey

Peter Creasey

Peter Creasey
Dan Berger says...

For more than a decade, I have hoped for a miracle. Then last week I realized the worst: cabernet sauvignon has changed so appreciably that I fear well never see it in the way we once did.

Cabernet has undergone a makeover that has, probably forever, made it little more than a parody of itself, entering a realm that 20 years ago I would never have believed.

Today, California cabernet is a virtual wine, made to be consumed as an aperitif and as young as possible. A long book could be devoted to this sad tale of decline. What follows is a brief look at the collapse of what once was Californias most prized possession.
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Sad Decline of Cabernets

. . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:
Per Berger...Sad Decline of Cabernets
Dan Berger says...

For more than a decade, I have hoped for a miracle. Then last week I realized the worst: cabernet sauvignon has changed so appreciably that I fear well never see it in the way we once did.

Cabernet has undergone a makeover that has, probably forever, made it little more than a parody of itself, entering a realm that 20 years ago I would never have believed.

Today, California cabernet is a virtual wine, made to be consumed as an aperitif and as young as possible. A long book could be devoted to this sad tale of decline. What follows is a brief look at the collapse of what once was Californias most prized possession.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

A good read, though a common complaint by now. A shout out to "our own" CMM, who gets cited in the article for a positive email on the '91 Simi Cab and a suggestion of a side-by-side comparison of flagship CalCabs vs. regular issue (we know how that would end, though, don't we?)

Thanks for the link, Pete.
Mark Lipton
 
A good read, though a common complaint by now. A shout out to "our own" CMM, who gets cited in the article for a positive email on the '91 Simi Cab and a suggestion of a side-by-side comparison of flagship CalCabs vs. regular issue (we know how that would end, though, don't we?)
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Mark Lipton
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Dan is more pessimistic on the subject than I am, there are still a fair number of Napa Cabs with "traditional values" if you dig around. Just as a footnote, we actually ran a choice simulation on some high frequency/high end consumers a few years ago that asked which Cab they would pick from a list of 4 "old guard" producers and 4 cults, for the birthday dinner of a wine-loving friend at a fine restaurant (cranking up the quality and social pressure). The stodgy old guard Cabs crushed the cults in that situation.
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:
there are still a fair number of Napa Cabs with "traditional values" if you dig around.
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Can you please point some out? Only one I have found is the Renaissance. I am sure there are others.
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Hear, here!

And Renaissance doesn't exactly have the best terroir.
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:
there are still a fair number of Napa Cabs with "traditional values" if you dig around.
Click to expand...

Can you please point some out? Only one I have found is the Renaissance. I am sure there are others.
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Just quickly looking over the notes I have on file for Napa Cab, I'd come up with the following list of "unmodern" Cabs in the Berger sense, no doubt incomplete. Of course Dan's own list might differ.

Tannic "vin de garde" style: Duckhorn, Schweiger, Diamond Creek, Montelena, Dunn
Balanced "elegant" style: Clos du Val, Keenan, Corison, Cain,
"Old fashioned" style: Heitz, Buehler, Freemark Abbey

To illustrate the article's point, I have found the Sequoia Grove regular Cab to be more "traditional" than their reserve, and a couple of examples have aged well. The caveat with all these comments is that if the winery switches winemakers and/or winestyle, the list above may be obsolete.

I thought Renaissance only made Estate wines from their vineyards in Northern CA (Yuba county?)
 
I thought Renaissance only made Estate wines from their vineyards in Northern CA (Yuba county?)
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Yes, you are correct. I meant to point out Renaissance as an example of a California Cab I like. I still am not sure if like Corisons as they have been hit or miss with me. AND they are very expsensive. Thanks for the list.
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:
I thought Renaissance only made Estate wines from their vineyards in Northern CA (Yuba county?)
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Yes, you are correct. I meant to point out Renaissance as an example of a California Cab I like. I still am not sure if like Corisons as they have been hit or miss with me. AND they are very expsensive. Thanks for the list.
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Unfortunately, high quality Napa Cab and expensive go hand-in-hand. The Buehler Napa (non-estate) and the Schweiger are on the less expensive side as I recall. Heitz had the 1998 Trailside featured at a very reasonable $twenty-something recently. And of course, hard times may make for some close-outs and deals.
 
I haven't had it in awhile, but I would think Mayacamas would feature amongst a listing of traditional style Calif. Cabernet.
 
Definitely Mayacamas, and you can add Smith-Madrone, Wing Canyon, and Ritchie Creek. I'd even put Lewelling into this category, despite their high scores in the Wine Advocate.

-Eden (drinking 2004 Ridge Buchignani Ranch Zin, with the bret integrating well after being open for two days. Nice wine overall, although the alcohol is still kinda spiky/spicy, but less like the hurtful spikes in the Stature of Liberty's crown than the softer, kinder points in Lisa Simpson's haircut. Only 41 barrels produced, collect 'em all!!)
 
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