2007 Pierre Gonon Saint-Joseph

originally posted by Marc D:
I remember a comment from JLL, saying tannin was the difference between St Joseph and Crozes Hermitage, it provided the poise and frame for the wine.
Interesting comment, but not one I'd agree with. When you're talking top St-Jo sites, I'd say it's a lot more than just the tannin quality. Your very top St-Jo sites have soils like Hermitage with the same exposition. I don't think anyone would say the difference between Hermitage and Crozes is just tannin quality.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:


Eric, in the first paragraph you imply that Gonon is old school and in the third paragraph you imply that he's not.

Sorry for this Oswaldo. I meant the opposite.

For me Gonon is the exact opposite of Souhaut and al, in term of style.

Old school northern rhone also means low extraction for me. So no tannic modern monsters la Robert, Bonnefond or Montez.

And yes I believe that whole cluster leads to a long and deep weird phase for syrah in some vintages.

No science involved. Hundred of bottles drunk. I don't think wine has much to do with science. I am Pascalian.

Eric
 
Ah, The Northern Rhone Wager: if great, old Gonon exists, it would be nice to be in its company. If it does not exist, comparatively little will have been lost by the waiting to find out.
 
originally posted by Brzme:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:


Eric, in the first paragraph you imply that Gonon is old school and in the third paragraph you imply that he's not.

Sorry for this Oswaldo. I meant the opposite.

For me Gonon is the exact opposite of Souhaut and al, in term of style.

Old school northern rhone also means low extraction for me. So no tannic modern monsters la Robert, Bonnefond or Montez.

And yes I believe that whole cluster leads to a long and deep weird phase for syrah in some vintages.

No science involved. Hundred of bottles drunk. I don't think wine has much to do with science. I am Pascalian.

Eric

Got it, Eric (et al). Since Gonon is so "natural," I presumed he'd be among the "natural" syrah boys (he looks young in his pictures).

PS: "in the name of science" is just a common American expression, used when you do something you shouldn't (like perform cote rotie infanticide) to gather knowledge.
 
This is why we see Joe "Hef" Dougherty walking around with jeroboams of Ppire under his arms.

On a more serious note, one could posit that it is the most veiled of coincidences if in French the word "canon" is slang both for a drink/glass of wine and a "hottie."
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
This is why we see Joe "Hef" Dougherty walking around with jeroboams of Ppire under his arms.

On a more serious note, one could posit that it is the most veiled of coincidences if in French the word "canon" is slang both for a drink/glass of wine and a "hottie."

Loose cannons taking advantage of loose canons.
 
originally posted by Brzme:

And yes I believe that whole cluster leads to a long and deep weird phase for syrah in some vintages.

Eric
Really? I've never noticed it. In fact, Clape's wines seem amazingly open all the time.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Brzme:

And yes I believe that whole cluster leads to a long and deep weird phase for syrah in some vintages.

Eric
Really? I've never noticed it. In fact, Clape's wines seem amazingly open all the time.
????

Really?

Interesting how experiences vary.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Brzme:

And yes I believe that whole cluster leads to a long and deep weird phase for syrah in some vintages.

Eric
Really? I've never noticed it. In fact, Clape's wines seem amazingly open all the time.
????

Really?

Interesting how experiences vary.
Must be karma. :)
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Brzme:

And yes I believe that whole cluster leads to a long and deep weird phase for syrah in some vintages.

Eric
Really? I've never noticed it. In fact, Clape's wines seem amazingly open all the time.

Claude,
Could you perhaps elaborate on what you mean by "open" in this context? My first ever encounter with a Clape Cornas was with his '83 in '85 or '86 and it nearly put me off Syrah altogether: fiercely tannic, no fruit and intensely animale in a wet grizzly sort of way. My next encounter with Cornas was an '86 Juge in '90 or '91 and... pretty much the same story. That's why I've been drinking '86 and '87 Verset and Clape in recent years.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Brzme:

And yes I believe that whole cluster leads to a long and deep weird phase for syrah in some vintages.

Eric
Really? I've never noticed it. In fact, Clape's wines seem amazingly open all the time.

Claude,
Could you perhaps elaborate on what you mean by "open" in this context? My first ever encounter with a Clape Cornas was with his '83 in '85 or '86 and it nearly put me off Syrah altogether: fiercely tannic, no fruit and intensely animale in a wet grizzly sort of way. My next encounter with Cornas was an '86 Juge in '90 or '91 and... pretty much the same story. That's why I've been drinking '86 and '87 Verset and Clape in recent years.

Mark Lipton
Mark -- When I tasted the 1983 Clape in 1985, I thought it was, along with Chave and one of the cuves of Barge Cte-Rtie, one of the greatest wines of the vintage, just fantastic to taste at that point. I was tasting the Kermit Lynch cuve, which in 1983 was all from a plot of Reynard planted in the 1890s, so it may not have been the same wine you were tasting? But it was overflowing with fantastic fruit. It was a very tannic vintage, but I guess I have a high tolerance for tannin (no problem drinking coffee or tea straight).

Michel Bettane once observed that wines of the Rhne rarely suffer the closing-up phases that one so frequently encounters in Burgundies and Bordeaux, and I agree with him completely on that.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:


Michel Bettane once observed that wines of the Rhne rarely suffer the closing-up phases that one so frequently encounters in Burgundies and Bordeaux, and I agree with him completely on that.

Claude

I have always thought of Clape as one of the first modernists from the northern Rhone.
I bought a lot of his wines from the 80s and 90s, and admit that I sold most of them. Not really my style, especially compared Verset and Juge. I remember clearly Jean Clusel in the early 80s saying that Clape was making Cornas as a Bordeaux...I wouldn't go that far.

I rarely share Bettane views, especially when it comes to Northern Rhone or Burgundy.
I don't share that one either.
This is far from my personal experience, especially for Gentaz, Chol, Juge or Verset even Chave I would say. I don't know a lot of people who really enjoyed 1991s 5 years after bottling.
88 Grandes Places from CLusel is now a lovely bottle of wine. But I wasted at least 6 bottles in the past 15 years hoping the potential showed in the barrel was beginning to point out. My first good one was 2-3 years ago only, and I wouldn't touch any magmum.

I have to admit that I don't enjoy black fruit or bacon in a Northern Rhone wine, and have a hard time when they begin to loose that fruit and taste oaky with this kind of bitterness all the modernist are fighting by using new oak or more recently added roasted grape tannin preparations.
I don't see even one 2005 I could enjoy today. We tasted something like 65 of them in Chavanay during the March last December, and they were really all painful and gross for my taste.

Southern rhone wines very rarely close up , I agree. Even whole cluster.

My .02 centimes

Eric
 
originally posted by Brzme:
this kind of bitterness all the modernist are fighting by using new oak or more recently added roasted grape tannin preparations.
Really? Sounds cool, please tell us more!

Where do I get me some of them roasted grape tannins?
 
originally posted by Brzme:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:


Michel Bettane once observed that wines of the Rhne rarely suffer the closing-up phases that one so frequently encounters in Burgundies and Bordeaux, and I agree with him completely on that.

Claude

I have always thought of Clape as one of the first modernists from the northern Rhone.
I bought a lot of his wines from the 80s and 90s, and admit that I sold most of them. Not really my style, especially compared Verset and Juge. I remember clearly Jean Clusel in the early 80s saying that Clape was making Cornas as a Bordeaux...I wouldn't go that far.

I rarely share Bettane views, especially when it comes to Northern Rhone or Burgundy.
I don't share that one either.
This is far from my personal experience, especially for Gentaz, Chol, Juge or Verset even Chave I would say. I don't know a lot of people who really enjoyed 1991s 5 years after bottling.
88 Grandes Places from CLusel is now a lovely bottle of wine. But I wasted at least 6 bottles in the past 15 years hoping the potential showed in the barrel was beginning to point out. My first good one was 2-3 years ago only, and I wouldn't touch any magmum.

I have to admit that I don't enjoy black fruit or bacon in a Northern Rhone wine, and have a hard time when they begin to loose that fruit and taste oaky with this kind of bitterness all the modernist are fighting by using new oak or more recently added roasted grape tannin preparations.
I don't see even one 2005 I could enjoy today. We tasted something like 65 of them in Chavanay during the March last December, and they were really all painful and gross for my taste.

Southern rhone wines very rarely close up , I agree. Even whole cluster.

My .02 centimes

Eric
Eric -- I understand what is meant by calling Clape a modernist because the texture of his wine is/was different and less rustic than that of others, but I think that the wines are made in a very traditional manner -- when one visits the celar, calling it modern is, well, more than laughable, and in fact to me Clusel would be substantially more modern than Clape (although that is comparative, Clusel is not anywhere near the center of modernism at Cte-Rtie). Indeed, the fact that Clape is one of the few to still use stems is strong refutation to the "modern" label. Modern Cornas for me meant Colombo and his clients.

I referred to Bettane because the statement is one of the few times that I agree with him, as brilliant as I think he is.

As for 2005s, it may be that the reason they're not enjoyable now is because many will never be enjoyable -- so many of the wines are unbalanced and overripe, and that is the way they were in barrel. Of course, I liked 2004 in the Northern Rhne, so what do I know?

As for new wood, I think you know that I share your views. 20-25% new seems to be about the max that Syrah ordinarily can take, and I am perfectly content with 0%.

It may be that different people are sensible to different things. Many claim that the wines of Joh. Jos. Prm are absolutely undrinkable young, yet I have always found them spectacular young (as well as old).

Best,
Claude
 
Southern Rhone wines close up all the time. They do so unpredictably, sometimes after a year or two, sometimes after three to five, and the closed period lasts unpredictably--sometimes one can time it on a stop watch, sometimes it can be for some years. I would agree that they don't clamp down as much as I have experienced young Cornas' and Hermitage's to do. I'm with Mark, Eric and Bettane on that. Maybe we can solve it by voting?
 
:

As for 2005s, it may be that the reason they're not enjoyable now is because many will never be enjoyable -- so many of the wines are unbalanced and overripe, and that is the way they were in barrel.

Bien dit, Claude !!! I like this one a lot. And share your opinion.

I don't think that whole cluster alone is the main point about modern or not.

Clape is a modernist because he has a strong idea of what he wants to achieve in terms of balance and structure. And he will do a lot interventions both in the vineyard and at the cellar to do so.
I see him as some kind of Henri Jayer of the northern rhone.
Traditional in the making but modernist in the philosophy.
Racking or fining is of course traditional but depending of the use you have, it can gives a certain modernity to the wines.
Sorry for the bad explanation. I could better with hands...

Colombo is more like a Michel Roland to me.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Brzme:
this kind of bitterness all the modernist are fighting by using new oak or more recently added roasted grape tannin preparations.
Really? Sounds cool, please tell us more!

Where do I get me some of them roasted grape tannins?

This brand is very much in favor in Ampuis these days.
Good choice. If you need any just ask. We can trade with morels.
Sorry not being able to give you any advice,though.
 
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