Adam & Eve and two types of shite

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Adam

A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett 2008

7,5% abv; 65 g/l RS; 9,8 g/l acidity. Light as water. Lovely, intense, pure scent. Crisp acidity, lovely raciness. It is steely and tastes off-dry despite the amount of sugar. In other words, it actually seems more like Mosel Kabinett (rather than Sptlese with Kabinett printed on the label) than any other recent Kab I have had. "F**k me this is awesome" is the best understatement I can come up with to describe my feelings on this wine. But maybe my enthusiasm is due only to Finland not having had any other non-trockener Germans available in years.

Eve

After a concert dedicated to music for Compline (John Sheppard's neglect is very sad when so many other "obscure" Renaissance composers have seen ... well ... a renaissance), we opened a couple cheap wines:

Sevilen Majestik Syrah-Kalecik Karası 2007 was preferable to the '06 which was more like Shiraz than Syrah. This '07 had lovely tart qualities in addition to Kalecik Karası's, red fruited Grenache-like, sunny warmth. Fun stuff for under 10. In comparison we had real Grenache (+ some white grapes IIRC) with Texier CdRhone 2007 which was lovely. Peppery and spicy and savoury despite Eric saying that '07 was a tricky year which easily led to too much ripeness. Well, I found the ripeness here perfectly fine - nothing over the top - and I found the structure fine, too - not deficient in tannins or acidity. Also much fun.

The horrible shite

Bodegas Tagonius Vinos de Madrid Crianza 2004

14,5% abv; 20,10; but conflicting info on the grapes (not that it matters in such a spoof-fest): 45% Syrah, 25% Cab Sauv, 20% Tempranillo, 10% Merlot or 45% Tempranillo, 40% Cab Sauv, 15% Syrah. There is conflicting info also on the oak: 9 months or 11-15 months in 30% new French and American oak. But enough of numbers (well, almost enough of numbers...), what was the wine like?

"91 Points Robert Parker Selection" it says proudly in a sticker under the label.

Opaque and purple. This superb effort (bravo!) shows an alluring perfume of inky pain grill, blueberry and black and red cherry, tart cherry, sweet cherry and cherry-cola all of which is covered in a sexy layer of chocolate and coconut. This leads to a full bodied, smooth textured, silkily tannic, elegant blob of a gob. It literally has gobs of flavour; it is so gobby that I'm gobsmacked! I thought only grapes grown in such a dry, harsh environment as the Gobi-desert would make wine so gobby! Built to last a hundred years with a structure smothered by a blanket of sweet fruit, expect this to unfurl over the next two years and drink well through 2110. This is so round that I won't give it a hundred points, I'll give it 360.

The good shite

Orval meets with my approval after all. The last time I mentioned it here, I mentioned that it had become sweet and too commercial. I still say it doesn't have anymore have the Cantillon-like dryness of decades past, but it is still the driest and least alcoholic of the Trappists. It is also marked by the good shite aroma of Brettanomyces Bruxellensis. Dry-hopped with East Kent Goldings, it has a lovely peppery aroma. It isn't cloying like most other Trappists (maybe Westmalle Tripel excepted - any others? or have they all gone the sickly sweet way?). Paradoxically both crisp and rich on the palate. So maybe this is a great beer still, though it isn't as great or uncompromising as it once was.
 
Otto,

Over what length of time are you noting a decrease in the quality of Orval? I've been drinking a pretty darn healthy amount of Orval over that period of time, and haven't percieved any drop-off in terms of quality. How would you say its changed? Dryness? The remedy for that is age. One of the things I love most about Orval is its variablity over time. When it's young, (I don't think I've had it any younger than 6 months old, as I've still never been to Belgium) it can be hoppy as hell as it ages the hops die down and the brett takes over leaving it aggressively dry and horsey. I think I've had them as old as 5 years old and that was powerfully dry and full of fresh cowshit funk. Every Orval I have is a little different, but it always has le gout d'orval. It always tastes like Orval. For my money it is one of the 5 most interesting beers in the entire world, and continues to be.

As for the rest of the Trappists, Westmalle tripel perhaps has the greatest potential, and I have had good experiences, but can also be a boozy mess. I'm not a huge fan of the dark, sweet ones, as their sweetness is too much for more than a sip or two.

A friend was telling me the story of travelling to the Rochefort monastery with a Belgian brewer who was lamenting being there on a hot day, as Rochefort didn't brew anything thirst-quenching, nothing but sweet, dark, heavy things.

Cheers,

Kevin
 
I used to run a bookshop with the person who imports Orval (and lots of other great Belgian beers) to Finland. He has opened recent bottles since 2002 or so when we started the bookshop, and has also opened aged ones from the '80s-late '90s regularly. Also the 2002-> we have retried fairly regularly. This millennium has seemed sweeter even when given years in bottle. I don't have as much experience as my ex-colleague, of course, but his thoughts were similar: a change in style late '90s or early '00s and towards a less dry, less aggressive style. The Orvals of this millennium I like more as young as possible as then the hops cover the sweetness better than with even a couple years' age.
 
I always found Orval very sweet, but only started drinking in 2000 or so. Westvletern (sp?) remains my favourite, well worth the plane ride.

I really thought Adam underperformed in 2008. For a similar style, I like Weiser-Kunstler.
 
Though I haven't had any aged Orval it is my understanding that they sweetened the recipe considerably in the last decade, though it somehow remains the driest of the Trappists. Shelton Brothers insists that De Ranke XX Bitter (excellent in my biased opinion) is similar to Orval "in it's heyday."
 
Yixin, I think "very sweet" is misleading. That would give the impression that Orval is like the rest of the Trappists, which I think is very much not the case. (I haven't tried Westvleteren IIRC, but I understand from my ex-colleague that it has, contrary to other Trappists, gone for a drier, more hoppy style in recent years!).

So what was the matter with the '08s for Adam? Finland obviously has been too long without proper German Riesling if I became so excited about a mediocre product.

Ty, I love XX Bitter. Though this statement might be a colossal understatement. But I do not think it has any brettanomyces bruxellensis in it, whereas that yeast is a very important part of the aromatic profile of both old style and new Orval. I guess the Shelton Bros are thinking more of the structural aspect: good hops, somewhat aggressive, racy, antisweet?
 
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