TN: A couple of Conternos with Oliver

D

David from Switzerland

David Plattner
Giacomo Conterno Barbera dAlba Cascina Francia 2007
Thanks to Oliver. Opaque purple, ruby-red at the rim. Mild nutmeg, cinnamon and clove, plus touches of vanilla and marzipan, and yet, it would be an exaggeration to claim this is oaky (and of course, it is not aged in barrique one can only assume this particularly successful Barbera vintage was used as an opportunity to replace a foudre here and there). Some integrated roasted herbs. Soft cocoa (if not dark chocolate as Oliver suggested) to sweet cherry, licorice and violety rose, quite bright if lightly evolved fruit. Nicely glyceric. Quite high acidity, but barely tannic at all. Fairly full-bodied, with the 15.8% alcohol only just noticeable. Medium length only at first, a bit longer with airing. Very faint volatility perhaps, and if so, it only gives the aromas and flavours additional lift. One of the handful best Barberas any of us has ever had, but costly. Not everyone will agree, but as good as it is (and despite the per se ageworthier-than-average style), I would drink this between now and roughly age ten. Rating: 92-/91

Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 1995
Thanks to Oliver. Pristine bottle. Ruby-black, faint watery orange at the rim. Always thought the 1995 more animal, as well as a bit tannic-hard and leaner on fruit than in top vintages: dried beef, a bit salty-spicy, medium sweetness at best, some leather to soft cherry, a little mace, cedar and broth cube spice. Medium-plus complexity and finesse, pretty and enjoyable wine all the same. Faintest truffle and rose petal only. Tannin is fairly hard and not too flavourful for a Conterno. Quite good length. Even so, told Oliver that guests who bring along Giacomo Conterno Barolo will always be welcome to our home. Rating: 89(-?)

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
TN: A couple of Conternos with OliverGiacomo Conterno Barbera dAlba Cascina Francia 2007
Fairly full-bodied, with the 15.8% alcohol only just noticeable.
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Please tell me that is a typo.....
 
originally posted by kirk wallace:
Say it ain't so ....
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
TN: A couple of Conternos with OliverGiacomo Conterno Barbera dAlba Cascina Francia 2007
Fairly full-bodied, with the 15.8% alcohol only just noticeable.
Click to expand...

Please tell me that is a typo.....
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Afraid not. Can only assume Oli's information to be correct, as he visits our favourite Piedmontese wineries with some regularity. The good part is, one would never guess it's so high by what's sitting in the glass, not at all.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
TN: A couple of Conternos with OliverGiacomo Conterno Barbera dAlba Cascina Francia 2007
Thanks to Oliver. Opaque purple, ruby-red at the rim. Mild nutmeg, cinnamon and clove, plus touches of vanilla and marzipan, and yet, it would be an exaggeration to claim this is oaky (and of course, it is not aged in barrique one can only assume this particularly successful Barbera vintage was used as an opportunity to replace a foudre here and there). Some integrated roasted herbs. Soft cocoa (if not dark chocolate as Oliver suggested) to sweet cherry, licorice and violety rose, quite bright if lightly evolved fruit. Nicely glyceric. Quite high acidity, but barely tannic at all. Fairly full-bodied, with the 15.8% alcohol only just noticeable. Medium length only at first, a bit longer with airing. Very faint volatility perhaps, and if so, it only gives the aromas and flavours additional lift. One of the handful best Barberas any of us has ever had, but costly. Not everyone will agree, but as good as it is (and despite the per se ageworthier-than-average style), I would drink this between now and roughly age ten. Rating: 92-/91
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G. Conterno Barbera was for many years one of a handful of Barberas I enjoyed.

I just had the '07. The volatility was a little off-putting, but not a deal breaker. The '04 G. Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo, which I had the following night, has a similar level of volatility but seems to hold promise for those with patience.

By the end of the evening, though, I just had to admit to myself that Barbera is a genre I rarely find enjoyable. There's just something about flavor, alcohol, structural balance of Barbera-only wines that seldom seems appealing. Is this Barbera-aversion unusual?
 
originally posted by Bwood:

By the end of the evening, though, I just had to admit to myself that Barbera is a genre I rarely find enjoyable. There's just something about flavor, alcohol, structural balance of Barbera-only wines that seldom seems appealing. Is this Barbera-aversion unusual?
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What were you eating?
 
originally posted by Scott Kraft:
originally posted by Bwood:

By the end of the evening, though, I just had to admit to myself that Barbera is a genre I rarely find enjoyable. There's just something about flavor, alcohol, structural balance of Barbera-only wines that seldom seems appealing. Is this Barbera-aversion unusual?
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What were you eating?
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An assortment of tamales and queso. Seems like a reasonable effort doesn't it? I want to like Barbera, and all wines from G. Conterno, it was just a, umm, challenge.
 
The best varietal barbera I know today is Mascarello's "Codana". I used to like Conterno's barbera but it got stupidly expensive around here AND the style kept getting bigger and bigger (meaning, sweeter, inkier, extracted, tannic)... all things that are anathema to the grape, I think. I think it's generally best as a table wine; a spunky older sibling to dolcetto.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
The best varietal barbera I know today is Mascarello's "Codana". I used to like Conterno's barbera but it got stupidly expensive around here AND the style kept getting bigger and bigger (meaning, sweeter, inkier, extracted, tannic)... all things that are anathema to the grape, I think. I think it's generally best as a table wine; a spunky older sibling to dolcetto.
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A bottle of Codana is probably the last bottle of Barbera I really enjoyed drinking. And the comparison to dolcetto seems apt -- a wine that in the right setting, with the right food, when not overdone that still seems enjoyable.
 
originally posted by Bwood:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
The best varietal barbera I know today is Mascarello's "Codana". I used to like Conterno's barbera but it got stupidly expensive around here AND the style kept getting bigger and bigger (meaning, sweeter, inkier, extracted, tannic)... all things that are anathema to the grape, I think. I think it's generally best as a table wine; a spunky older sibling to dolcetto.
Click to expand...

A bottle of Codana is probably the last bottle of Barbera I really enjoyed drinking. And the comparison to dolcetto seems apt -- a wine that in the right setting, with the right food, when not overdone that still seems enjoyable.
Click to expand...

Yes - which is why I wondered about the food. Barbera seems best with somewhat tomatoey dishes. I like the Codana. The Bera that LDM brings in is great. Mascarello's too.
 
I will have to try a Bera. I have missed that one.

I do actually like the Codanas I've tried and just haven't bought one in many years now. I'm not sure what makes it so different from the rest of the crowd.
 
originally posted by Bwood:
I do actually like the Codanas I've tried and just haven't bought one in many years now. I'm not sure what makes it so different from the rest of the crowd.
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90-year-old vines in a single vineyard located next to Monprivato (so I've read)
 
I have thought to myself a few times while perusing the Disorder that there is very little mention of the Cascina Roera wines. In the context of this barbera diatribe i just was wondering if people have had and enjoyed them or what the deal was. These guys are making some of the most characterful barbera's i've had and a stunning nebbiolo that really could put a lot of Barbaresco to shame. I just had the new 2005 nebbiolo from these guys last night and it was insane. It had the purity and elegance that made me think of Jacky Truchot's Morey's though it developed into a classic italian wine as the evening continued. I think more folks really should try these wines.
 
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