TN: Oltrepo Pavese

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
Andrea Picchioni 2001 "Rosso d'Asia" IGT - $32; croatina with a drop of "Ughetta di Solinga" (presumably, vespolina); not sure why this doesn't qualify for Oltrepo Pavese; Anyway, the funny thing is that I had seriously considered opening a bottle of Ch. Musar tonight but I said to myself that I really didn't want to face so much VA. Well, this wine smells of little else than VA. Not quite as acrid as nail polish remover, but close. The palate is a bit nicer, a mid-weight texture and red plum fruitiness. But really, it's like trying to be friends with the bully's younger brother. By Day 3, the VA is still bad and the palate has faded. All in all, bleh.

F.lli Agnes di Giovanni 2004 Oltrepo Pavese Rosso "Poculum" - $24; A blend of bonarda (presumably, croatina), barbera, and pinot; this wine has seen barrique briefly (sez the site) but you wouldn't know it: really tastes like bonarda with a bit of extra juiciness and depth; lots of sediment; a nice find.
 
Thanks, Jeff. I know little about Oltrepo Pavese, so when I began to read your notes, I thought it must be in the far north of Piedmont because a small winemaker that we were supposed to visit in Brusnengo (Biella) last November uses vespolina and croatina too:

Torrearsa - 60% vespolina, 40% cabernet franc
Mesolone - mostly croatina (bonarda) with a little nebbiolo and uva rara from 100 yr. old vines
Bramaterra Vigneto Doss Pilun - 70% nebbiolo with croatina, uva rara and vespolina (the only one with DOC status)

Obviously more widespread than I thought...
 
Thanks, Jeff. I know little about Oltrepo Pavese, so when I began to read your notes, I thought it must be in the far north of Piedmont because an obscure winemaker called Barni that I was keen to visit (he stood us up) in Brusnengo (Biella) last November uses vespolina and croatina too:

Torrearsa - 60% vespolina, 40% cabernet franc
Mesolone - mostly croatina (bonarda) with a little nebbiolo and uva rara from 100 yr. old vines
Bramaterra Vigneto Doss Pilun - 70% nebbiolo with croatina, uva rara and vespolina

Obviously more widespread than I thought.
 
To qualify as an Oltrepopoluza one must open at least two bottles of Bonarda Vivace from two different producers. (I recommend Verdi and Martilde). Also one Lambrusco Mantovano must be present but does not necessarily need to be opened.
 
I recommend Verdi and Martilde
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I've had some good Martilde before, from 90's vintages. Used to like his artistic cat labels, before putting 'critters' on labels was de rigueur.

Also one Lambrusco Mantovano must be present but does not necessarily need to be opened.
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Heh!
 
We are finishing up the 2000 vintage of the Ghiro d'Inverno Bonarda from Martilde (not vivace) rounds these parts. It is drinking great, dark and truffled with lots of layers of complexity. Big fan of their wines.
 
originally posted by Matteo Mollo:
To qualify as an Oltrepopoluza one must open at least two bottles of Bonarda Vivace from two different producers.
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I know I had some sparkling bonarda this summer. Maybe Jay Miller remembers which ones?
 
Day 3 on the Poculum: still going strong, showing some rough edges and maybe a little flat in the middle but still basically OK, lots of sediment in the bottom of the glass
 
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