I found myself in DC this weekend for my wifes exhibition opening and of course I had to arrange a little wine-and-food get together with some folks. Maureen and Bob and a few others were kind enough to organize a lovely evening with amazing food and more than enough choices of wine. What could be better!
When I arrived it was the time to sip 1998 Maximin Grnhuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett which was a lively way to awaken the taste buds. Stern crisp refreshing and delicate although I might be tempted to let this age further to see if it starts picking up any additional characteristics? (Not that it matters because I dont own any)
As we sat down to Bobs delightful onion tart with black garlic, we debated pairings with the 1993 Pieropan Recioto di Soave Le Colombare and the 1998 Zind Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Riesling Vendanges Tardives. Personally, I thought the Recioto was a better match because of its delightfully rich yet firm and savory palate that was very deep and hugged the edges of the creamy onion tart like a dream. Fun wine. Others preferred the ZH, which was no slouch either, but for me it was still a bit loose when we opened it. I much preferred it later in the evening when it had firmed up and integrated better, although it was always carrying a firm juicy dollop of sugar. A sturdy off-dry wine with fine points inside. Also plenty of fun!
As we transitioned to the main course it was time to play a Burgundy Game. The centerpiece of the game was three unmarked decanters holding 1999 Comtes Lafon Volnay Champans, 1999 Joseph Voillot Volnay Champans, and 1999 dAngerville Volnay Champans. There was also a decanter of 2006 Pousse dOr Volnay Les Caillerets just to see if anyone would get fooled.
Once all the wines were poured the 2006 Caillerets was easy to pick because it was the one that didnt seem as similar to the others! But it showed more elegantly than I think many of us expected. At first it was gentle and crisp and delightfully delicate but then it stretched out with air and began to do things that were more difficult to read.
Among the 99s, there was a universal preference for the decanter holding what turned out to be the dAngerville (although there was not universal agreement about what was in that decanter!) It was the most integrated and the silkiest and the most nuanced. It was lovely. A few of us thought the Lafon was too big toasty and brash (from the oak?). For my tastes, the Voillot had more pleasure than the Lafon, but others complained of volatility and lack of fruit. Admittedly, it changed a lot with air and I liked it best at the end of the evening when it had gotten its act together and firmed up and begun silking onto the palate. There was pleasure to be had from these wines but I think the universal (and somewhat predictable) consensus was that they would show better in a few years. Regardless, it was good fun.
Of course we were still not finished. And aside from various parlor activities related to various guests interests, there was cheese and then dessert! We went back to the white wine for this progression of tastes, and began passing around 1998 JJ Prm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett and 2008 Vollenweider Krover Steffanisberg Riesling Sptlese. The Prm was harder to get a read on at this point because it was speaking very softly and gently while my palate and senses were being bombarded with so many things. It will probably give more joy to whoever took the remains home at the end of the evening. The Vollenweider was easier to drink because of the sugar and it was a pretty and gentle wine in its own right. Refreshing 2008 Sptlese.
But we were not to be sated with gentle and refreshing. We needed something bigger and bolder for the delightful walnut-studded carrot cake. After rummaging through all the choices we decided to start with the 1989 Bongran Macon-Cless Cuve Tradition Spciale Botrytis that had somehow managed to survive in Bobs cellar. It was really more of a joke than anything, because it was a difficult mouthful of limp aging botrytis with all the brown appley notes I did not want to drink. But the mission of Opening was accomplished.
We then settled into the table with 2002 Pierre Bise Quarts de Chaume and 1995 Baumard Quarts de Chaume, both of which offered plenty of pleasure. The Pierre Bise was full-on lip-smacking unctuous liquoreux sticky pleasure when opened, but it calmed down and showed some nuance with air. The Baumard was obviously further along its path towards mellowness but still with plenty of vibrant tingling fruit and I hope someone is enjoying the remnants of that bottle today!
Lots of fun. Thanks again to everyone!
When I arrived it was the time to sip 1998 Maximin Grnhuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett which was a lively way to awaken the taste buds. Stern crisp refreshing and delicate although I might be tempted to let this age further to see if it starts picking up any additional characteristics? (Not that it matters because I dont own any)
As we sat down to Bobs delightful onion tart with black garlic, we debated pairings with the 1993 Pieropan Recioto di Soave Le Colombare and the 1998 Zind Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Riesling Vendanges Tardives. Personally, I thought the Recioto was a better match because of its delightfully rich yet firm and savory palate that was very deep and hugged the edges of the creamy onion tart like a dream. Fun wine. Others preferred the ZH, which was no slouch either, but for me it was still a bit loose when we opened it. I much preferred it later in the evening when it had firmed up and integrated better, although it was always carrying a firm juicy dollop of sugar. A sturdy off-dry wine with fine points inside. Also plenty of fun!
As we transitioned to the main course it was time to play a Burgundy Game. The centerpiece of the game was three unmarked decanters holding 1999 Comtes Lafon Volnay Champans, 1999 Joseph Voillot Volnay Champans, and 1999 dAngerville Volnay Champans. There was also a decanter of 2006 Pousse dOr Volnay Les Caillerets just to see if anyone would get fooled.
Once all the wines were poured the 2006 Caillerets was easy to pick because it was the one that didnt seem as similar to the others! But it showed more elegantly than I think many of us expected. At first it was gentle and crisp and delightfully delicate but then it stretched out with air and began to do things that were more difficult to read.
Among the 99s, there was a universal preference for the decanter holding what turned out to be the dAngerville (although there was not universal agreement about what was in that decanter!) It was the most integrated and the silkiest and the most nuanced. It was lovely. A few of us thought the Lafon was too big toasty and brash (from the oak?). For my tastes, the Voillot had more pleasure than the Lafon, but others complained of volatility and lack of fruit. Admittedly, it changed a lot with air and I liked it best at the end of the evening when it had gotten its act together and firmed up and begun silking onto the palate. There was pleasure to be had from these wines but I think the universal (and somewhat predictable) consensus was that they would show better in a few years. Regardless, it was good fun.
Of course we were still not finished. And aside from various parlor activities related to various guests interests, there was cheese and then dessert! We went back to the white wine for this progression of tastes, and began passing around 1998 JJ Prm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett and 2008 Vollenweider Krover Steffanisberg Riesling Sptlese. The Prm was harder to get a read on at this point because it was speaking very softly and gently while my palate and senses were being bombarded with so many things. It will probably give more joy to whoever took the remains home at the end of the evening. The Vollenweider was easier to drink because of the sugar and it was a pretty and gentle wine in its own right. Refreshing 2008 Sptlese.
But we were not to be sated with gentle and refreshing. We needed something bigger and bolder for the delightful walnut-studded carrot cake. After rummaging through all the choices we decided to start with the 1989 Bongran Macon-Cless Cuve Tradition Spciale Botrytis that had somehow managed to survive in Bobs cellar. It was really more of a joke than anything, because it was a difficult mouthful of limp aging botrytis with all the brown appley notes I did not want to drink. But the mission of Opening was accomplished.
We then settled into the table with 2002 Pierre Bise Quarts de Chaume and 1995 Baumard Quarts de Chaume, both of which offered plenty of pleasure. The Pierre Bise was full-on lip-smacking unctuous liquoreux sticky pleasure when opened, but it calmed down and showed some nuance with air. The Baumard was obviously further along its path towards mellowness but still with plenty of vibrant tingling fruit and I hope someone is enjoying the remnants of that bottle today!
Lots of fun. Thanks again to everyone!