07 Cotat Beaujeu and 04 Bea Rosso

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
2007 Franois Cotat Sancerre Les Culs de Beaujeu 13.0%
Classy aromas of grapefruit, lime and lemongrass. Good weight, biting acidity, some lemon oil, minerals and white flowers. Tart finish. Very fine.

I used to love drinking minerally Sancerre, straight from the fridge, sitting on the porch. Then I went through a phase of loving tropical fruit cocktail Kiwi sauvignons, sitting in the Porsche (just kidding). Now I find just about every SB I taste, well, unexciting. I dont want to jump on the SB bashing bandwagon, but I do wonder what place it retains. Serious examples like this (and Dagueneau, which Ive never tried) may not have enough sheer fun, and perhaps I want my SBs to be that, too. I don't appreciate taciturn Beaujolais, no matter how complex, so maybe some of the same subjectivity applies here.

2004 Paulo Bea Montefalco Rosso Vigna San Valentino 13.5%
Bottle 1,931 from and edition of 6,333. 70% Sangiovese, 15% Montepulciano, 15% Sagrantino. Loved this from an enomatic machine a few months ago, so brought a bottle down for Marcia to experience the Bea magic. But this tasted very different. Perhaps damaged, in that infuriatingly unclear way that wines sometimes have of not being what they should be. Intriguing nose of herbs, pine resin (garrique?) and dishrag. Kept thinking light cognac, light chinato, light digestif. Sumptuous mouth feel, with excellent grip from acidity and fine tannins. Enjoyable to drink, exotic and different, but I just know theres something wrong. Weird.

There are defects that make a bottle undrinkable. At least those are clear cut. There are defects that make the wine dull and lifeless. These are puzzling because its sometimes hard to tell if the wine isnt simply closed. There are defects that make the wine taste different. These are perhaps the rarest, and hardest for me to grasp.
 
I know less about SB than a pissing cat, but if you read John Gilman's write-up of Vatan, it sounds like the few really good ones don't show their merit to scale for about 10 years.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons: if you read John Gilman's write-up of Vatan, it sounds like the few really good ones don't show their merit to scale for about 10 years.

That might be a bit of an exaggeration. I didn't read this Gilman piece so I don't know the context, but from my experience it's not like the Vatan wines are exactly painful when young. Quite the opposite. They just evolve to show more dimensions.

And if someone doesn't like them young then they might consider trying to find someone who would open an aged version but I would hardly recommend spending large sums of money and cellar time/space on the project, because it's not like the transformation is 180degrees.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Have two more, so will put them away for a sunny day.

I am still enjoying '98 and '99 Culs de Beaujeu; not necessarily better than when young; just differently excellent.

Vatan I have tended to drink young, but that is more a happenstance of supply and circumstances, in my case, than by intention.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:

That might be a bit of an exaggeration. I didn't read this Gilman piece so I don't know the context, but from my experience it's not like the Vatan wines are exactly painful when young. Quite the opposite. They just evolve to show more dimensions.

And if someone doesn't like them young then they might consider trying to find someone who would open an aged version but I would hardly recommend spending large sums of money and cellar time/space on the project, because it's not like the transformation is 180degrees.

Perhaps so; he was pretty enthusiastic after tasting through some old wines. Doesn't suggest they change fundamentally, but that they put on weight and develop complexity. I read this in a Woodland Hills sales email, which quoted him at extensive length.

Weygandt's outlet in Washington, D.C. was selling the 05 Neore on close-out last week at about $35, if anyone is interested in trying a reputedly good year with a couple of years age.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:

Weygandt's outlet in Washington, D.C. was selling the 05 Neore on close-out last week at about $35, if anyone is interested in trying a reputedly good year with a couple of years age.

I wish I had seen that. I would have purchased. I think I saw some more recent vintage Vatan for the usual high price. Maybe the 05 was all gone.
 
Give 'em a call, they might still come across. I don't know when the sale ended. The 07 was also on for $36. I had a little flutter myself.
 
That lasted literally about a day and then they realized their mistake--everything Vatan is now ten dollars more than it was before the painfully brief sale.
 
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