Young Turk in Anjou (1877)

Don Rice

Don Rice
Possibly of interest here (of course this sort of thing is my lifeblood). Sourced from

BORIT Eugne. Viticulture de l'Anjou, arrondissement de Saumur. Paris: E. Lacroix, 1877, 180x120, 137pp.

-Many authors of Loire viticulture texts are high-minded in their goals and ideals, and scholarly and measured in their words. This author is cut from a different cloth. In his introduction, the author, "Propritaire, viticulteur au Vaudelnay-Rill (Maine-et-Loire)", boasts about his lack of formal training, the high prices realised by his wines in the marketplace, the high yields of his productive vineyards, the congratulatory letters he's received from notables in the French government, the prizes his wines have won, and the wonderful new system of vine spacing he has invented. Borit's treatise on wine-grape growing is limited to the vineyard; the author defers to others for advice in the cellar and winemaking. Here's the introduction:
---------------

"Son of a farmer, I started out at eighteen years age in the village of Vaudelnay-Rill, district of Saumur, without any expertise other than the local agricultural and vine growing traditions.

Two or three years spent in practical application of these old methods led me to an obvious conclusion: that the income from vine cultivation can exceed, to a large degree, on an equal surface of ground and with typical labor costs, than of all our other basic farm products.

Thenceforth I stuck exclusively to the culture of the vine.

Wanting to move beyond the old ways, I began experimenting on five hectares, which I cultivated with the plough. I planted vines at a distance of 0m, 83 on line, with 2 meters between the rows. Soon I was encouraged enough to expand this method of planting, so that today I am utilizing the process on thirty hectares, split between vineyards in production and those with seedlings.

When they were in old-style agriculture, the first five hectares (basement tuff) had not earned much income, sometimes producing nearly nothing. But since being planted to vine with my newly developed method, they return from 55 to 60 hectolitres per hectare. The wine that they produce is the white pineau grown along the coasts of the Loire; it is sold on average from 20 to 25 francs the hectolitre, i.e. a gross income from 1,200 to 1,300 francs. This fortuitous turn of events goes back to 1860.

There remains no more doubt about the need to apply this new fashion of viticulture to a broader scale; to simplify the workforce and substituting the plough for the spade. One understands that beforehand I had to regularly re-arrange my vines using trellises. I even had to use new instruments adapted to our soil and to our climate.

My hopes have been realized: I have not only obtained a reduction in operating costs, but achieved an output of very-superior production. My example has been adopted by a large number of owners. Of course I could not limit myself to this first success. I later planted 25 hectares of vine on the plateau of Montreuil-Bellay, on a rise 25 meters above the level the plain. The soil is slightly inclined; the arable layer, argillaceous-siliceous, is completely irregular in thickness; the basement is composed of a laminated, burnt limestone bench good for cereals. There, on stubborn soil where nothing grew, I created beautiful vines, vigorously growing and very-remunerative.

The Agricultural Committee of Saumur encouraged my efforts by awarding me two medals at the contests of 1868 and 1873, and the Minister for Agriculture and Commerce sent me the following letter:

Versailles, January 9, 1877.

Dear Sir,
I have the honor to announce to you that I have sent on this day, on behalf of Monsieur the Prefect of your Dpartement, a silver medal, which I grant to you as encouragement for your plantations of vine on the wastelands.

I ask you to accept it as a token of my satisfaction for the services which you rendered, by your example, with the agriculture of your locality.

Receive, Sir, etc The Minister for Agriculture and Commerce.
For the Minister, by authorization,
PORLIER.


Today, of course, since my technique was corroborated experimentally, I believe this book, with its simple and concise description of the steps I followed for seventeen years, will be useful for the owners and cultivators of vineyards. This concise text is only one practical guide, whose primary merit must be its clearness as to the direction of planting, the size, the installation of the trellis-work, the operations of pinching off, of de-budding and stripping, the orientation of the branches and the trimming of the vine shoots, the use of the plough, the culture in general, the transformation of an old vine by provignage, the use of manure, etc .

We will not say a single word about vinification, cuvage or the treatment of wine, leaving this to winemakers and others qualified in such matters.
Eug. BORIT."


borit.jpg

Here's the orig French, since I paraphrased a lot.
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"Fils de propritaire-agriculteur, je me suis livr, ds l'ge de dix-huit ans, sans autre guide que les traditions locales, l'agriculture et la viticulture, dans la commune du Vaudelnay-Rill, arrondissement de Saumur.

Deux ou trois annes s'coulrent dans ces applications toutes pratiques de notre vieille culture, et me conduisirent la dmonstrations vidente: que le revenu de la vigne dpasse, dans une grande porportion, sur une gale superficie du sol, celui de tous nos produits de basse et de moyenne main d'oeuvre.

Alors je m'attachai spcialement la culture de la vigne.

Voulant sortir de la routine anciennement suivie, je commenai mes essais d'exprimentation sur cinq hectares, que je cultivai la charrue. Je les avais plants une distance de 0m,83 en ligne, en les espaant de 2 mtres entre les rangs. Bientt, je fus encourag gnraliser ce systme de plantation sur des fonds de nature varie, et je suis aujourd'hui le mme procd sur trente hectares, tant en production qu'en plantes nouvelles.

Les cinq premiers hectares (sous-sol tuf) ne m'avaient donn, lorsqu'ils taient en culture, que le revenu normal et peu de chose prs infranchissable. Mais, depuis qu'ils sont plants en vigne avec une direction nouvelle, ils me rendent de 55 60 hectolitres par hectare. Le vin qu'ils produisent est le pineau blanc, des ctes de la Loire; il se vend en moyenne de 20 25 francs l'hectolitre, c'est--dire m'offre un revenu brut de 1,200 1,300 francs. Cet heureux essai date de 1860.

Il ne me restais plus aucun doute sur la ncessit d'appliquer sur une plus large chelle ce nouveau mode de culture de la vigne, de simplifier la main-d'oeuvre et de substituer le labourage la bche. On comprend que je dus pralablement ranger rgulirement mes vignes l'aide du , et les tablir sur treillages; je dus mme employer de nouveaux instruments appropris notre sol et notre climat.

Mes esprances furent ralises : j'obtins non-seulement une diminution dans les frais d'exploitation, mais un rendement de production trs-suprieur. Mon example fut suivi par un grand nombre de propritaires. Je ne pouvais me borner ce premier succs. Je plantai successivement 25 hectares de vigne sur le plateau de Montreuil-Bellay, d'une lvation de 25 mtres au-dessus du niveau de la plaine. Le sol prsente l'aspect d'un plan lgrement inclin; la couche arable, argileuse-siliceuse, est d'une paisseur tout fait irrgulire ; le sous-sol se compose d'un banc de calcaire feuillet et brlant pour les crales. L, sur un sol rfractaire, en apparence, toute culture, j'ai cr de belles vignes ayant une pousse vigoureuse et donnant des produits trs-rmunrateurs.

Le Comice agricole de Saumur encouragea mes efforts en m'accordant deux mdailles aux concours de 1868 et de 1873, et M. le Ministre de l'Agriculture et du Commerce me fit addresser la lettre suivante:

Versailles, le 9 janvier 1877.

Monsieur, j'ai l'honneur de vous annoncer que j'addresse par le courrier de ce jour, M. le Prfet de votre dpartement, la mdaille d'argent grand module, que je vous ai accorde, titre d'encouragement, pour vos plantations de vigne des terres incultes.

Je vous prie de vouloir bien l'accepter comme un tmoignage de ma satisfaction pour les services que vous avez rendus, par votre example, l'agriculture de votre localit.

Recevez, Monsieur, etc.
Le Ministre de l'Agriculture et du Commerce.
Pour le Ministre, par autorisation,
PORLIER.


Aujourd-hui, donc, que ma nouvelle mthode a t corrobore par l'exprience, je crois tre utile aux propritaires et cultuvateurs de vignobles en leur exposant d'une manire simple et concise les procds que j'ai suivis avec avantage pendant une priode de dix-sept annes. Ce petit trait n'est qu'un guide pratique, dont le seul mrite doit tre la clart, sur la direction de la plantation, la taille, l'installation des treillages, les oprations du pinage, de l'bourgeonnage et de l'effeuillage, la projection des rameaux et le rognage des sarments, les labours et la culture en gnral, la transformation d'une vieille vigne par provignage, la fumure, etc.

Nous ne dirons qu'un mot sur la vinification, le cuvage et le traitement du vin, renvoyant, pour le reste, les viticulteurs aux traits des auteurs comptents sur ces matires.

Eug. BORIT.
 
Don,

Thanks so much for the excerpt.

In 1877 Phylloxera was already ravaging vineyards in the south, but was still a few years away from the Anjou. So Eugne Borit would be describing pre-phylloxera viticulture. Apparently it is the invention of the plough, which I used to think was a more ancient tool, that brought about these innovations.

I imagine he had a fine pair of horses to pull his plough. But he must have also had some other tools, as well. It is astonishing to me, to think of him planting 25 hectares of vines (after his first success), roughly 150,000 vines. Perhaps Olivier Cousin, who farms 30 hectares a few miles away from M. Borit, and working in much the same fashion, would not be so impressed.

Another question stems from the the notion (I have) of a viticultural tradition in which the wine maker and the grape grower were one and the same. But in 19th century France, perhaps this was not the case, considering M. Borit's disavowal. Is this another modern innovation?

Best,
Jeff
 
originally posted by Jeff Connell:

Another question stems from the the notion (I have) of a viticultural tradition in which the wine maker and the grape grower were one and the same. But in 19th century France, perhaps this was not the case, considering M. Borit's disavowal. Is this another modern innovation?

I would think that it would track pretty closely with land reform in France. Up until 1796 (or so) vineyards were mostly owned by the Church and the aristocracy, with monks and peasants actually in charge of making wine. Perhaps the exception to this would be in the N. Rhone, where you've got a few families like the Chaves who've been doing their thing since the 15th century or so, although in the early centuries maybe they were tenant farmers, too.

By the way, the plough has been known throughout recorded history. The steel plough, though, was introduced in the 19th Century, by none other than John Deere, and might very well have revolutionized the tilling of rocky vineyard soils.

Mark Lipton
 
on a wide scale was a boon for vignerons. I'm beginning to really get that in a way I hadn't before.

Looking at the figures in Guyot barely a generation before (I'll post some later), we observe a world where vines are trained to wooden stakes and trellises.

The steel plow and steel wire on which to train vines affected how vineyards were planted and influenced the things Borit talks about: costs, vine density, production, labor.
 
Here's an interesting table from p14 showing vine spacing and density per hectare for different vine-growing regions. Quite a spread there. What could account for it?

vinedensity1877.jpg
 
That's awesome! Amazing, in fact. The obvious differences are rainfall and latitude, highly related. But I never knew that so many locations were so densely planted. Epernay at 62,500 vines per hectare, woo-hoo! Actually, at the point it's all just one big vine with 62,500 feet setting down roots.
 
I entered those places into a mapping program: click

For those more tabular oriented among us, the correlation of the order of vine density ("#") and latitude ("bg_lat") is pretty much as Jeff said, with two notable standouts up and one standout down:

# City bg_lat bg_long
8 Haute-Garonne 43.0900 6.0256
4 Departement du Gers 43.2535 -0.0518
5 Departement de l'Herault 43.5926 3.3669
1 Chateauneuf-du-Pape 44.0497 4.8360
6 Palus de Bordeaux 44.8366 -0.5810
7 Medoc 46.7124 1.7183
9 Beaujolais 46.7124 1.7183
11 Cote-d'Or 46.7124 1.7183
10 Touraine 47.0913 0.2353
13 Orleans 47.9014 1.9050
14 Ain-Vosges 48.1635 6.2960
2 Sainte-Cecile 48.8355 -1.1903
12 Paris 48.8569 2.3412
3 Vauvert-Saint-Gilles 48.9143 1.5159
16 Moselle 49.0207 6.7657
15 Epernay 49.0452 3.9548

NB. I hope that's fairly legible to folks. I can't figure out how to get rid of the big empty gap; it ain't in my HTML.
 
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