'89 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Aus #27 -- Too Young??

kirk wallace

kirk wallace
Opened this because I'd never had it and was inspired by a fun series of Mosel and Saar wines Dan Tisch opened last night, going back to a lovely '71 F. Gymnasium auslese.

This is a bit foursquare on the nose and palate; color is copper/orange/gold. Reads more like a BA. Lacking acidity and sharp definition that I usually find in Egon Muller. This is a big, sweet dreamsicle of wine; a bit of dried orange rind dipped in caramel. Not sure if it's just not a good bottle or not a good wine; or at an odd spot. In any event, not living up to its reputation, at this moment.
 
Since no one else answered, I'd say yes, probably too young (although what was your storage?). At Mller, the wines are made to be kept a long, long time. At the end of the tasting, Egon typically offers his guests an older bottle for discussion and contemplation in the library (how civilized is that!). A few years ago, it was Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1976 and the wine was amazingly young. (The following day, when I mentioned the wine to several of the MSR's top producers, they all drooled over it.) The last several years, it has usually been wine from the 1970s that he offers, although the Prdikat varies. Unusually, this year he did open the 1988 Auction Sptlese, but that was to make two points: that 1988 and 2008 were similar vintages, and that what was an auction Sptlese 20 years earlier would probably be a Kabinett today.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Since no one else answered, I'd say yes, probably too young (although what was your storage?). At Mller, the wines are made to be kept a long, long time. At the end of the tasting, Egon typically offers his guests an older bottle for discussion and contemplation in the library (how civilized is that!). A few years ago, it was Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1976 and the wine was amazingly young. (The following day, when I mentioned the wine to several of the MSR's top producers, they all drooled over it.) The last several years, it has usually been wine from the 1970s that he offers, although the Prdikat varies. Unusually, this year he did open the 1988 Auction Sptlese, but that was to make two points: that 1988 and 2008 were similar vintages, and that what was an auction Sptlese 20 years earlier would probably be a Kabinett today.

Thank you, Claude. I bought this bottle very recently (some time last year), so I can't speak to its prior storage. I would like to think that i interrupted its sleep at a inopportune moment --although, I have to say there doesn't appear to be boatloads of acidity lurking in this wine.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Since no one else answered, I'd say yes, probably too young (although what was your storage?). At Mller, the wines are made to be kept a long, long time. At the end of the tasting, Egon typically offers his guests an older bottle for discussion and contemplation in the library (how civilized is that!). A few years ago, it was Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1976 and the wine was amazingly young. (The following day, when I mentioned the wine to several of the MSR's top producers, they all drooled over it.) The last several years, it has usually been wine from the 1970s that he offers, although the Prdikat varies. Unusually, this year he did open the 1988 Auction Sptlese, but that was to make two points: that 1988 and 2008 were similar vintages, and that what was an auction Sptlese 20 years earlier would probably be a Kabinett today.

I've been sampling this the past 2 or 3 days -- its been vacu-vin stoppered in the fridge -- and it has indeed improved; the sweetness seems to be better balanced with acidity and the flavors are less monolithic. Now 5 days in, it was very enjoyable last night.
 
I agree Claude...I had a '76 Scharzhofberger Kabinett last year and it was in superb condition.

As an aside, I met and had a chat to Egon Muller yesterday in Adelaide....a lovely chap. He produces a riesling called Kanta out of the Adelaide Hills. He had arrived in Australia first thing in the morning, been to check the vineyard and told me they were going to pick today so fingers crossed for him...
 
originally posted by Dave Brookes: He produces a riesling called Kanta out of the Adelaide Hills. He had arrived in Australia first thing in the morning, been to check the vineyard and told me they were going to pick today so fingers crossed for him...

How long has he been doing this?
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Dave Brookes: He produces a riesling called Kanta out of the Adelaide Hills. He had arrived in Australia first thing in the morning, been to check the vineyard and told me they were going to pick today so fingers crossed for him...

How long has he been doing this?

I think this is his third vintage??....it's a pretty steely, linear style of riesling...bone dry...very interesting floral aromatics.

I was happy because he liked the t-shirt I was wearing of the winery I work for...so I'm getting one to him next week.
 
originally posted by Dave Brookes: I think this is his third vintage??....it's a pretty steely, linear style of riesling...bone dry...very interesting floral aromatics..

And I guess given the different hemispheres he doesn't have to be around for the same tasks in each winery at the same time?

I assume he's still pretty involved in the Saar? And this is for the experience of making wine in Australia. Or does he need/want more money. Or both.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Dave Brookes: I think this is his third vintage??....it's a pretty steely, linear style of riesling...bone dry...very interesting floral aromatics..

And I guess given the different hemispheres he doesn't have to be around for the same tasks in each winery at the same time?

I assume he's still pretty involved in the Saar? And this is for the experience of making wine in Australia. Or does he need/want more money. Or both.

Yes I'd expect that would be the case....the weather is nice over here at the moment too :)

I wouldn't expect he needs the money..and I don't think the production is that large. I expect it is just a chance to work with different soil and raw materials.
 
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