Easton 2008 Pinot Noir Duarte-Georgetown (Sierra Foothills) 14.2%. Despite positive verbiage on the label and the accompanying tech sheet (this was a free sample from the winemaker), Im dubious. OK, pinot noir may have a history in the Sierras, but I suspect there must be a reason it doesnt have a present. Certainly it would be an easier sell than the ubiquitous syrah, wouldnt it? Well, anyway, first impressions dont challenge my predispositions, with a vinyl, overworked quality to the sappy red fruit. Theres acid, and theres minerality, but neither one works pleasantly towards a pleasant wholeness. So I leave the bottle alone for a while. One day becomes two, and two become three, and then I revisit. At which point Im forced to walk back some of my criticisms, because the plastic element has disappeared, the structure has integrated, and the fruit is far more appealing than it was on the first day. Theres still minerality, and now theres balance, and so now one wonders if there might be ageability. Is it a great pinot? No. Neither the Russian River Valley, nor the Central Coast, need quake in their boots (Im not sure the Anderson Valley, for all its qualities, can quite afford boots yet). But its interesting, its markedly different, its from a trustworthy producer, andwell, who really knows? Worth a revisit, but mind the pop-and-pour mentality, because it doesnt work here. (2/10)
Tulocay 1999 Zinfandel (Amador County) 15%. Though this wine will unquestionably age a good deal longer, changing as it does, Im quite attracted to its present charmspoised on a pinnacle between the boisterous fruit of youth and the textural lavishness of maturity. The berries, dark and spicy, arent quite so wild anymore, but neither has the wine edged into one of those realms in which it can be mistaken for a different grape, as so often happens with well-matured zinfandel. I like that stage, too, but there are other ways to get to those places. Zin of this quality (and with these qualities) is something to be cherished on its own merits. (2/10)
Folie Deux 1999 Zinfandel (Amador County) 15.5%. From the Scott Harvey era, and even though Id expected it to age based on that alone, I didnt really intend to hold on to this particular bottle as long as I have. One of the single-site bottlings, perhaps, but this is the entry-level blend. Still, its held up pretty well. A little sappier and stickier than I might prefer, and with a concentrated, sloppy smooch of vanilla butter providing discomfort (even under Harvey, this was always a winery that was prone to sloppy overwooding), but the fruit reflects the Amador style: concentrated wild berries grown even more concentrated, almost to the point where they exhibit a resinous quality. Its good, but drink up for sure. (2/10)
La Garagista Rose Liqueur (Vermont) Exotic and seductive, but one has to likeno, make that loveroses as a comestible, which not everyone does. Get this involved with some seared foie gras, in place of the rose (not rose hip) confiture I can never find when I want it, and youre halfway to gewrztraminer-pairing heaven. Its OK on its ownbut then, I like roses. (2/10)
La Garagista Gingered Lemon Liqueur (Vermont) Inhabits two worlds: the warming stickiness of an infused liqueur and the bright refreshment of a tonic. For whatever reason, among a lineup of three variations on liqueur, this is the most successful, taking two clearly-expressed base elements (plus alcohol) and turning the result into something more than the sum of its triad. Fun. (2/10)
La Garagista Nocino (Vermont) While the skin-bitterness and concentration that mark nocino are present, theres a lot more going on here. The thing is, that more is from elements other than walnuts, and the result is more of a sachet/potpourri quality than I think is respectful of the core ingredient. Its good, but its very sweet without much mitigation, and has a bit of a Heidi Fleiss character that not everyone will enjoy. (2/10)
Roederer Estate Brut (Anderson Valley) That this wine seems to grow a shade more leaden every time I taste it might be my imagination, or maybe its the case; theres no way to go back and taste young Roederer Estates from ten years ago, of course, and aged versions wont settle the issue. Its good, flavorful stuff, leaning more on its weight and darker fruit characteristics than it would from the soils of Champagne (where even the black-fruited wines rarely carry this much raw density), but all that weight comes at a cost: theres little deftness and decreasing life. If this is a stylistic choice, rather than just the voyages of my palate, then heres a vote for an alternative path. I still like the wine, but the similarly-priced alternatives exist in quantity. (2/10)
Quackenbush 2006 Zinfandel (Lake County) 14.8%. Jammy/syrupy zinfruit (the usual range of berries, here fatter and less vibrant than is possible in the best zins) with a coconut, vanilla, and burnt butter overlay. Simplistic. (2/10)
Lincoln Peak 2008 La Crescent (Vermont) Drier than one expects, and probably drier than is ideal; it lacks the concentration to support a more arid expression, and would probably be assisted by a little more residual sugar. Flavors are bare, but inhabit some small corner of the lemon/apple/tea family. I hate to say that the absence of flaws is a significant improvement on most Vermont wine, but its the case here (the wine is painstakingly clean), and so I suspect that time, effortand severe global warmingwill eventually lead to better things here. (2/10)
Tulocay 1999 Zinfandel (Amador County) 15%. Though this wine will unquestionably age a good deal longer, changing as it does, Im quite attracted to its present charmspoised on a pinnacle between the boisterous fruit of youth and the textural lavishness of maturity. The berries, dark and spicy, arent quite so wild anymore, but neither has the wine edged into one of those realms in which it can be mistaken for a different grape, as so often happens with well-matured zinfandel. I like that stage, too, but there are other ways to get to those places. Zin of this quality (and with these qualities) is something to be cherished on its own merits. (2/10)
Folie Deux 1999 Zinfandel (Amador County) 15.5%. From the Scott Harvey era, and even though Id expected it to age based on that alone, I didnt really intend to hold on to this particular bottle as long as I have. One of the single-site bottlings, perhaps, but this is the entry-level blend. Still, its held up pretty well. A little sappier and stickier than I might prefer, and with a concentrated, sloppy smooch of vanilla butter providing discomfort (even under Harvey, this was always a winery that was prone to sloppy overwooding), but the fruit reflects the Amador style: concentrated wild berries grown even more concentrated, almost to the point where they exhibit a resinous quality. Its good, but drink up for sure. (2/10)
La Garagista Rose Liqueur (Vermont) Exotic and seductive, but one has to likeno, make that loveroses as a comestible, which not everyone does. Get this involved with some seared foie gras, in place of the rose (not rose hip) confiture I can never find when I want it, and youre halfway to gewrztraminer-pairing heaven. Its OK on its ownbut then, I like roses. (2/10)
La Garagista Gingered Lemon Liqueur (Vermont) Inhabits two worlds: the warming stickiness of an infused liqueur and the bright refreshment of a tonic. For whatever reason, among a lineup of three variations on liqueur, this is the most successful, taking two clearly-expressed base elements (plus alcohol) and turning the result into something more than the sum of its triad. Fun. (2/10)
La Garagista Nocino (Vermont) While the skin-bitterness and concentration that mark nocino are present, theres a lot more going on here. The thing is, that more is from elements other than walnuts, and the result is more of a sachet/potpourri quality than I think is respectful of the core ingredient. Its good, but its very sweet without much mitigation, and has a bit of a Heidi Fleiss character that not everyone will enjoy. (2/10)
Roederer Estate Brut (Anderson Valley) That this wine seems to grow a shade more leaden every time I taste it might be my imagination, or maybe its the case; theres no way to go back and taste young Roederer Estates from ten years ago, of course, and aged versions wont settle the issue. Its good, flavorful stuff, leaning more on its weight and darker fruit characteristics than it would from the soils of Champagne (where even the black-fruited wines rarely carry this much raw density), but all that weight comes at a cost: theres little deftness and decreasing life. If this is a stylistic choice, rather than just the voyages of my palate, then heres a vote for an alternative path. I still like the wine, but the similarly-priced alternatives exist in quantity. (2/10)
Quackenbush 2006 Zinfandel (Lake County) 14.8%. Jammy/syrupy zinfruit (the usual range of berries, here fatter and less vibrant than is possible in the best zins) with a coconut, vanilla, and burnt butter overlay. Simplistic. (2/10)
Lincoln Peak 2008 La Crescent (Vermont) Drier than one expects, and probably drier than is ideal; it lacks the concentration to support a more arid expression, and would probably be assisted by a little more residual sugar. Flavors are bare, but inhabit some small corner of the lemon/apple/tea family. I hate to say that the absence of flaws is a significant improvement on most Vermont wine, but its the case here (the wine is painstakingly clean), and so I suspect that time, effortand severe global warmingwill eventually lead to better things here. (2/10)
