Kreydenweiss 2006 Riesling Andlau Au dessus de la loi (Alsace) Firm, freezing-point riesling driven over a road glistening with crystalline spikes and deformations. Absolutely overwhelmed by its minerality, and for me this is a good thing, yet in a more primary way than is typical for wines exhibiting such a character. Very, very long for what is, after all, essentially an entry-level riesling from this producer (even though its not priced like one). Striking. (2/10)
Mallo 2005 Sylvaner (Alsace) This has gotten rather dramatically better over the last year, veering from a vegetal, tomato-dominated stage (with an unfortunate layer of residual sugar) into something much more linear. Sylvaner is one of a small host of non-prestige Alsatian grapes that riesling-ifies as it ages, and thats what appears to have happened here. Melon rind, verbena, fresh snow, and fair acidityat least, enough to cover the lingering mildness lent by sugarwith a refreshing aspect the wine did not previously possess. I dont think this will last forever, or even very tiny subsets of forever, so Id suggest drinking it now, while its in an interesting stage. (2/10)
Trimbach 2004 Pinot Gris Ribeauvill Rserve (Alsace) Metal-jacketed pear, light on the spice of richer years, and probably better for it. Theres plenty of acidity always crucial with Alsatian pinot gris and a long, bright finish. Heralding a long, bright future? In the context of this wine, I think so, given a sufficiently short definition of long. Certainly five more years wont hurt it, and in fact might bring out a little more of that spice. (2/10)
Mur 2004 Gewurztraminer Tradition (Alsace) Simple, spicy goodness. Peach, cashew, lychee. Not so much rose or bacon, but the latter isnt really expected in a young wine anyway. Just barely acidic enough, though its a near thing. (2/10)
Sipp Mack 2005 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) Bigger than expected, and comes galloping out of the gate with an insistent simplicity: pear, apple, paper. Doesnt really go anywhere, though. Party wine. (2/10)
Michel Fonn Crmant dAlsace (Alsace) Not as good as my previous bottle, with a wallpapered exterior and not much intensity or generosity of flavor in the middle. Bottle variation at work. (2/10)
Trimbach 2001 Riesling (Alsace) Corked. (2/10)
Mallo 2005 Sylvaner (Alsace) This has gotten rather dramatically better over the last year, veering from a vegetal, tomato-dominated stage (with an unfortunate layer of residual sugar) into something much more linear. Sylvaner is one of a small host of non-prestige Alsatian grapes that riesling-ifies as it ages, and thats what appears to have happened here. Melon rind, verbena, fresh snow, and fair acidityat least, enough to cover the lingering mildness lent by sugarwith a refreshing aspect the wine did not previously possess. I dont think this will last forever, or even very tiny subsets of forever, so Id suggest drinking it now, while its in an interesting stage. (2/10)
Trimbach 2004 Pinot Gris Ribeauvill Rserve (Alsace) Metal-jacketed pear, light on the spice of richer years, and probably better for it. Theres plenty of acidity always crucial with Alsatian pinot gris and a long, bright finish. Heralding a long, bright future? In the context of this wine, I think so, given a sufficiently short definition of long. Certainly five more years wont hurt it, and in fact might bring out a little more of that spice. (2/10)
Mur 2004 Gewurztraminer Tradition (Alsace) Simple, spicy goodness. Peach, cashew, lychee. Not so much rose or bacon, but the latter isnt really expected in a young wine anyway. Just barely acidic enough, though its a near thing. (2/10)
Sipp Mack 2005 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) Bigger than expected, and comes galloping out of the gate with an insistent simplicity: pear, apple, paper. Doesnt really go anywhere, though. Party wine. (2/10)
Michel Fonn Crmant dAlsace (Alsace) Not as good as my previous bottle, with a wallpapered exterior and not much intensity or generosity of flavor in the middle. Bottle variation at work. (2/10)
Trimbach 2001 Riesling (Alsace) Corked. (2/10)