Lapierre 2007 Morgon (Beaujolais) This is the S (sulfured) cuvee. The aromas say Morgon, but theres such an ethereality to this wine. Its not muted, and while it could be accused of being light, that doesnt really get to the heart of the matter either. Both fruit and texture float like dust, the wines character is delivered in feathery layers of the finest tissue, and I think it would be possible to drink this in one long, enticing gulp without realizing one had done so. A great Lapierre Morgon? No, not in the sense one usually hears that phrase. Its too different. But it has its own charms. (2/10)
Lapierre 2002 Morgon (Beaujolais) VV 02, for those tracking lot numbers. Surprisingly immature. Berries are still tart and primary, soil notes are still broad-shouldered, and theres a fair bit of tannin (for gamay), with no apparent fraying of the weave between fruit and structure, and none of the mature elements I seek in this wine. Leave it alone, I guess. (2/10)
Granger 2002 Julinas (Beaujolais) Softening, for sure, and starting to cast glances in the direction of softer, smoother pinot noir as it attempts to leave its brighter, lighter gamayness behind. Its still mostly what it was, however, showing brownish-grey earth and soft red berries, and its an open question whether or not it will achieve its pinot noirish destiny. I do think it would be somewhat improved by a little more of either its past or its future. (2/10)
Cinquin Domaine des Braves 2007 Rgni (Beaujolais) Corked. (2/10)
Vatan Chateau du Hureau 2006 Saumur-Champigny Tuffe (Loire) Classically earthy, dark, and intense, with a stylish black dirt texture and a long, breathy finish. Very young, and very good. Utterly, wonderfully dominated by its soil elements. (1/10)
Soard Domaine de Fenouillet 2006 Ctes du Ventoux (Rhne) Theres some difficulty getting this one started, as might be the case for a partially closed wine. It doesnt take an enormous amount of coaxing or time to bring forth the aromas, thankfully, though theyre not as expressive as they were in the wines youth. Dark and earthy, with the sweet black olive-infused meat aromas of Southern Rhnishness lingering on the borders, it finishes a lot more supple than it begins. Ideally, one would want to let this one rest a while longer. (1/10)
La Croix Peyrassol 2007 Vin de Pays de Mditerrane (Provence) Aromatic and structured, weaving through an arboreal maze of leaves, barks, underbrush, and dried petals, then rounded with dark black fruit. Despite strength, its not an aggressive or heavy wine, and is as nice without food as it is with. Balanced, albeit a little short, and so despite the quality I think this is a relative short-termer. (2/10)
Lapierre 2002 Morgon (Beaujolais) VV 02, for those tracking lot numbers. Surprisingly immature. Berries are still tart and primary, soil notes are still broad-shouldered, and theres a fair bit of tannin (for gamay), with no apparent fraying of the weave between fruit and structure, and none of the mature elements I seek in this wine. Leave it alone, I guess. (2/10)
Granger 2002 Julinas (Beaujolais) Softening, for sure, and starting to cast glances in the direction of softer, smoother pinot noir as it attempts to leave its brighter, lighter gamayness behind. Its still mostly what it was, however, showing brownish-grey earth and soft red berries, and its an open question whether or not it will achieve its pinot noirish destiny. I do think it would be somewhat improved by a little more of either its past or its future. (2/10)
Cinquin Domaine des Braves 2007 Rgni (Beaujolais) Corked. (2/10)
Vatan Chateau du Hureau 2006 Saumur-Champigny Tuffe (Loire) Classically earthy, dark, and intense, with a stylish black dirt texture and a long, breathy finish. Very young, and very good. Utterly, wonderfully dominated by its soil elements. (1/10)
Soard Domaine de Fenouillet 2006 Ctes du Ventoux (Rhne) Theres some difficulty getting this one started, as might be the case for a partially closed wine. It doesnt take an enormous amount of coaxing or time to bring forth the aromas, thankfully, though theyre not as expressive as they were in the wines youth. Dark and earthy, with the sweet black olive-infused meat aromas of Southern Rhnishness lingering on the borders, it finishes a lot more supple than it begins. Ideally, one would want to let this one rest a while longer. (1/10)
La Croix Peyrassol 2007 Vin de Pays de Mditerrane (Provence) Aromatic and structured, weaving through an arboreal maze of leaves, barks, underbrush, and dried petals, then rounded with dark black fruit. Despite strength, its not an aggressive or heavy wine, and is as nice without food as it is with. Balanced, albeit a little short, and so despite the quality I think this is a relative short-termer. (2/10)