Wines with a cassoulet dinner

Lee Short

Lee Short
Some local(ish) geeks gathered at our place Saturday night for some cassoulet and vino. There was Mark Davis and Leigh Ann from Portland, Marc Davis and MJ from Bellingham, and BJ and Leslie. Melissa and I brought the crew to eight.

We started with hors d'oevres and a too-long-decanted 07 Pepiere Granite de Clisson. Great wine, but it was better at 3 hours in the decanter than at 7. Next wine up was the 1989 Robert Denis Touraine Azay-le-Rideau. I was surprised at how pale the wine was; I expected more browning. It was also very fresh on the palate, with a lovely white fruit profile. Couldn't ask for much more.

Next up was the salad and a 2004 WIlli Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Spatlese #9. Beautiful elegant wine with lots of acidity to offset the RS. Only 7% (which was appreciated on this night).

As an intermezzo, we had the 07 Monastero Suore Cistercensi Rusticum. This is an orange wine. The wine was interesting, with a large apple cider component. Not something I'd want all the time. This was served without food, but I think it would be better with the right food (not sure what that is, though).

The next course was broccolini sauteed with bacon strips and ponzu vinegar. We had a couple of Poulsards with this, the 2004 Overnoy Arbois Pupillin and a 2004 Domaine de la Tournelle Ploussard Monteiller.

Finally it was time for the main course. We started the cassoulet with the 1993 Thevenet Morgon with this. This worked rather better than I expected, even though it was not a perfect match. The Thevenet was showing quite well, balanced with good stuffing. Still, the wines that followed were better with the food.

The 1982 and 1989 Cahors from Cayrou were the next two. The 1982 was good but starting to decline. The 1989 was young and vibrant, great with cassoulet. These were followed by the 2007 Robert Paris Cornas Granite 60. Decanted for 8-9 hours, this showed wonderfully. Big and assertive yet well balanced. One of the meats in the cassoulet was some pork shoulder that had been put on the smoker just before the wine was opened, and it was perfect with the wine.

There were various cheeses, but I only remember one: the fabulous St Marcellin. With the cheese, we had the 1996 Francois Cazin Cour-Cheverny Cuvee Renaissance. A bit of a kerosene note amidst the white-fruitiness. Great length and delineation; a real treat.

With the cake, there was a 2002 Baumard Quarts de Chaume. My memory of this wine is pretty vague. I'm pretty sure it had a reasonable acid structure, or I would have found it cloying. That's about all I can say.
 
Cheese after cassoulet. Impressive.

We still haven't finished my 2010 batch, though we're down to one (~ six serving) container in the freezer. Theresa asked me why I couldn't just make less, which of course is a totally nonsensical question.

We had a couple of Poulsards with this, the 200X Overnoy and a 2004 XXXX.
Journalists use TK. Less hardcore.
 
originally posted by Lee Short:
1989 Robert Denis Touraine Azay-le-Rideau. I was surprised at how pale the wine was; I expected more browning. It was also very fresh on the palate, with a lovely white fruit profile. Couldn't ask for much more.

Can I ask for a little more prose, please? My last bottle a year ago was still tight and unyielding. We kept at it for days to no avail.
 
originally posted by Thor:
Cheese after cassoulet. Impressive.

Its how we rain-proof our skin.

We still haven't finished my 2010 batch, though we're down to one (~ six serving) container in the freezer. Theresa asked me why I couldn't just make less, which of course is a totally nonsensical question.

Of course it is. That's like asking if Briords can be purchased by the bottle rather than by the case.

We had a couple of Poulsards with this, the 200X Overnoy and a 2004 XXXX.
Journalists use TK. Less hardcore.
[/quote]
Fixed.

Fixed^2
 
The Poulsards were 2004 Overnoy/Houillon Ploussard and 2004 Domaine de la Tournelle Ploussard de Monteiller. The Overnoy was multifaceted, and a little funky, the Tournelle was cleaner, pure Poulsard fruit without any brett.

The 1989 Robert Denis was fabulous. Honey and a little smoke, crisp, fresh and dry. Chenin heaven.

Willi Schaefer was bogarted by the girls. I liked the taste I had.

The old Morgon was great with the pork and beans. The was a meaty, smokey side to the Gamay that matched well.

The 96 Cazin had that Yin Yang sweet and sour thing in spades.

The orange wine had a very interesting nose, but was really yeasty/leesy and tannic in the mouth.

Amazing cassoulet.

Thanks again Lee and Melissa.
 
originally posted by Lee Short: Wines with a cassoulet dinner a too-long-decanted 07 Pepiere Granite de Clisson. Great wine, but it was better at 3 hours in the decanter than at 7.

Lee, Thus my being partial to minimal or no decanting. Once the wine has faded, there is no rejuvenating it.

Alternatively, development in the glass can be revelatory.

Not intending to reopen a long-standing issue (decanting)...just following up with a comment pertaining to your disappointment.

. . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:
originally posted by Lee Short: Wines with a cassoulet dinner a too-long-decanted 07 Pepiere Granite de Clisson. Great wine, but it was better at 3 hours in the decanter than at 7.

Lee, Thus my being partial to minimal or no decanting. Once the wine has faded, there is no rejuvenating it.

Alternatively, development in the glass can be revelatory.

Not intending to reopen a long-standing issue (decanting)...just following up with a comment pertaining to your disappointment.

. . . . . Pete

It's a tough line to walk, because sometimes if you don't decant early enough, then only the last few drops really get to show their stuff. It all depends on just how much air the wine needs.
 
Thanks for hosting Lee. The food was fabulous!

The Houillon was dominated by funk (multi-faceted complex changing intriguing funk) on the nose, which is typical of the others I've opened, but probably detracted for some (not me!)...the palate had all kinds of things going on, super complex wine.

The Tournelle was much cleaner and perhaps less interesting in the palate; whereas it had very complex - fruit driven - aromatics...there was a minty thing going on that I haven't experienced with this grape.

Really liked both Poulsards and for very different reasons.

The '93 Thevenet was in a great state...drinking really well now...I thought it paired well with the food. I'll drink this any night.

The most surprising wine for me was the Robert Denis...really outstanding wine...There were lots of things going on in this wine. I need to get some of this stuff.

Yeah, the '96 Cazin did have a pretty interesting profile as described above. Enjoyable.

The Baumard QDC was young - it was probably better on day 2. Still had the acidic backbone that I need to have on otherwise flabby dessert wines :).

The Schaefer had more RS than I wanted, but also excellent acidity, precision, and elegance. There is something Zen about everything this producer does.

I still prefer the style of the Briords to Clisson...for me the Clisson is a little forward in '07...Very high quality wine however and I am super happy that I tasted it. I think the wine will appeal to non-geeks more than geeks at present...where was all the minerality?

The Rusticum didn't show as well as previous bottles and was more interesting on the nose than on the palate. I can't really disagree with any of the comments above. The palate evolved more on other bottles and didn't seem to have that yeasty thing in a dominant role. I still think the wine is generally good.

While I think the '82 Cahors was in decline, it still have some enjoyable secondary and resolved tannins on the palate, while the '89 showed its structure...and had much more fruit.

-mark
 
originally posted by Mark Davis: The most surprising wine for me was the Robert Denis...really outstanding wine...There were lots of things going on in this wine. I need to get some of this stuff.

Good luck with that.

Not the most traded wine in the auction market.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Mark Davis: The most surprising wine for me was the Robert Denis...really outstanding wine...There were lots of things going on in this wine. I need to get some of this stuff.

Good luck with that.

Not the most traded wine in the auction market.

Yeah, I'm not holding my breath. :)
 
Not much to add other than to agree it was a really fun time. The cassoulet was superb.

We all agreed that if there is a way to geek out about any aspect of food, Lee will have blazed the path. For example, did you know about: http://www.pepper-passion.com/ ?

Underwhelmed by the Clisson.

I loved the Denis - never heard of it, never even heard of wine from Azay, yet here's a top flight old Chenin, some botrytis, dryish, really good.

The orange wine was reminiscent of another orange wine I've had, the plum wine we made out of plums from our back yard. Primitive and homespun.

I had a minor Poulsard denoument - they were great - very different but equally interesting. The Overnoy was a lot of fun, the other very pure.

I offer the 93 Thevenet as Exhibit A for why you should cellar a healthy amount of cru Beaujolais and Bone Jolly. I wish I had cases of this stuff.

The Cayrous were a lot of fun to try side by side, with both wines on either side of probably their optimal drinking point. I personally preferred the 89 with the cassoulet, but both were very good.

The cheese plate was unusually tasty, and Exhibit B for serving cheese at room temp.

Good times!

I'll try for a photo log next time.
 
seattle_dinner.jpg
Brad even made a partial showing.

Oh yeah, Marc gets kudos for bringing that awesome cheese spread..very impressive.

Yeah, Lee had referenced some speciality store for nearly every damn ingredient...Post the links to the other stuff Lee...I've got to get some of that black pepper too. The artisan beans...the peppers mentioned above...crazy!

-mark
 
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