Bad Wines

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
Last night we had dinner at the home of a colleague of my wife's. He loves wine but, well, follows a different path. Dependency on the kindness of friends can be a cross.

2008 Michel Picard Beaujolais Villages 12.5%
Bleh. Barely recognizable as Gamay or Beaujolais. Mediocrity at its finest. They dump this stuff on Brazil, since other countries must know better.

2006 Terrazas de los Andes Afincado Malbec Mendoza 14.0%
This is the top cuvee from this huge winery. My experience with large Malbec producers is that going up the ladder means more concentration, supermaturity and new oak, so one should stick to the lower cuvees (but avoid Alamos at all costs). This had massive aromas of oak, chocolate, coffee and blackberries. Disappointingly thin palate, acid in one room, sweetness in another, suggesting the usual tartrate additions. Little pleasure to be had; I can say in its favor that it wasn't too hot.

Yesterday, in a Brazilian message board, someone posted an interview with Parker from October 2009 Revue du Vin de France. There's stuff to disagree with, but the eloquence with which he critiques terroirists is impressive. But I mention it because he says something about new world chardonnay that I have found to be true of most of the reds as well, and that I found surprising, coming from him:

"The preponderant number of new world Chardonnays must be consumed within 2-3 years after the vintage. As enjoyable as they are, they often have all their components playing against one another rather than in complete harmony. Perhaps because most new world Chardonnays must be acidified, when one tastes them, the overall perception is one of separate but equal building blocks of acid, structure, fruit, and wood."
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa: But I mention it because he says something about new world chardonnay that I have found to be true of most of the reds as well, and that I found surprising, coming from him

But he loves grand pronouncements!
 
So do I, so I missed that aspect...

WS and WA are the fundamental driving forces behind the proliferation of such wines, so to have RP acknowledge publicly that the same manipulation that made them earn high scores is also responsible for poor integration of the parts looks like (very honest) foot shooting to me.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa: WS and WA are the fundamental driving forces behind the proliferation of such wines, so to have RP acknowledge publicly that the same manipulation that made them earn high scores is also responsible for poor integration of the parts looks like (very honest) foot shooting to me.

Is this more of your tendency towards grand pronouncements?

I don't follow all these magazines very closely but I never thought Parker was the 'fundamental driving force' behind all the cheap and poorly-made New World chardonnays. I always had the impression that he gave lots of points to good wines, although not necessarily wines that were everyone's style. But then I've never subscribed to his publication.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:

I don't follow all these magazines very closely but I never thought Parker was the 'fundamental driving force' behind all the cheap and poorly-made New World chardonnays. I always had the impression that he gave lots of points to good wines, although not necessarily wines that were everyone's style. But then I've never subscribed to his publication.

I think Oswaldo's right in the sense that all American Chardonnays, with a few notable exceptions, have been 'designed' with Robert Parker's palate squarely in mind. That's true from top to bottom, so that rich, opulent Chards with hefty doses of oak became the prevailing style regardless of production cost. But while it's difficult to make a good, pricey Chardonnay in that style, it's well-nigh impossible to make one that is good and inexpensive. Since very few modestly-styled wines claim high scores from Parker, California winemakers never learned to produce inexpensive Chardonnays that were modest-styled.

At least, that's my take on the matter. But then, to use Isaiah Berlin's model, I'm a hedgehog rather than a fox. I just don't think some mass-unconscious force emerged in the 80's driving one and all to desire oaky, sweet glasses of crappy Chardonnay.
 
Though Parker's comment is directed at chardonnay, I think it applies to the majority of wines, red and white, made under supermaturation conditions that require subsequent acidification (how's that for a grand pronouncement?).

Argentina and Chile used to make European styled wines until the late 90s. Then, a few supercharged malbecs got high scores and most producers, under the influence of Michele Chiarlo, switched to making bionic steroid botox silicone colas. If WA and WS had complained, from the start, that acidified wines tend to lack integration, and punished them with lower scores (confusing those of us who consider low scores a badge of honor, but that's another story), the landscape would be very different today. To do so now, after all the damage is done...
 
Chiarlo again. What's good enough for malbec is good enough for barbera?

I smell a rat.

Sorry, I know that was soulless and oaky of me but I couldn't resist.
 
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