OMG! WSJ Hires Teague

originally posted by Yixin:
Hang on, this is what people in the God's industry are supposed to read?
Isn't that the National Catholic Reporter?

Could be a little Bolshie for some, I suppose.
 
jay had one sentence in bacchus and me that i love:

"the chardonnay made in california is very much like the women one encounters in los angeles; their beauty has very little to do with nature."
 
originally posted by Morgan Harris:
Taste MakersHas anyone read McIrney's Book, "A Hedonist in the Cellar?" It's kind of absurd. He might as well entitled it, "Drinking Wine for Stupidly Rich People". He talks about how Cheval Blanc is his favorite wine, and really, when he can he prefers to drink the '61. There's a whole chapter on differentiating between the various high end Guigal stuff. When he talks about Gruner it's F.X. Pichler and Knoll.
It's not a bad book, I just feel the same way about it I feel about the Wine Advocate (I think, this month's issue) writing about DRC.

Okay, it's great that we're writing about them, but who the hell in their life is actually going to be able to drink this wine at all, let alone on a regular basis? Shouldn't we get exited about stuff that's actually available to the average consumer wine that lives and circulates around the masses.

I mean, I'm young and poor, so take that as my bias. I suppose I have my book to write now.

Is there a reason to talk about anyone but Knoll when talking about gruner?

On a related note, the long term credit bubble which drove asset prices to unreasonable levels essentially destroyed an crucial aspect of wine for young people ITB and out.

When I was coming up in the wine business in the early 1990s, I could drink 1982 LLC for $80, 1982 Mouton for $120, 1990 La Tache for ~$130 (it was only sold in mixed packs, so pricing was odd). Petrus was the only thing that was consistently out of my price range. Bea at $25, Quintarelli, etc, etc.

But you get the general idea, you and a buddy could afford to split a bottle of "important" wine on a Friday and get a sense of what it was all about and understand them. Hell, in graduate school when I first started drinking autrian wines I could get all the Hirtzbereger and Knoll, etc that I wanted at about $25-30. 1er Cru from Chevillon, Barthod and Mugneret for sub-$40.

The situation we are in now is that people coming up rarely have the opportunity to drink these wines. They may try some at a tasting of some sort, but to sit down and drink these wines with a meal is an important experience. You might just realize that "important" wines are not always that interesting and you just might want some Grzeaux instead.

This why I hope for a massive correction in the wine business. Young people should be able to afford to drink most of these wines.
 
originally posted by VLM:
....

The situation we are in now is that people coming up rarely have the opportunity to drink these wines. They may try some at a tasting of some sort, but to sit down and drink these wines with a meal is an important experience. You might just realize that "important" wines are not always that interesting and you just might want some Grzeaux instead.

....

This is a good point.

I don't know if I've ever had an 'important' wine, but the more expensive ones haven't as a rule, knocked me out. But I'm pretty thrilled at the number of extremely good wines under $25, many of which come from areas along the Loire. Reading the chat here has been an education in this regard.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by VLM:
....

The situation we are in now is that people coming up rarely have the opportunity to drink these wines. They may try some at a tasting of some sort, but to sit down and drink these wines with a meal is an important experience. You might just realize that "important" wines are not always that interesting and you just might want some Grzeaux instead.

....

This is a good point.

I don't know if I've ever had an 'important' wine, but the more expensive ones don't as a rule, knock me out. But I'm pretty thrilled at the number of extremely good wines under $25, many of which come from areas along the Loire.

DRC, Mugnier Musigny, Monfortino, Quintarelli Amarone, Haut-Brion are all sui generis. There aren't really substitutes.

It's not that there aren't other wines that are great, it's that it bumbs me out that an entire generation of ITBers are denied the opportunity to put these wines in context.
 
originally posted by VLM: an entire generation of ITBers are denied the opportunity to put these wines in context.

Who cares about ITBers.

Are you saying they don't taste enough to make good business decisions?

It's the rest of us with less access that I'm worried about!
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM: an entire generation of ITBers are denied the opportunity to put these wines in context.

Who cares about ITBers.

Are you saying they don't taste enough to make good business decisions?

It's the rest of us with less access that I'm worried about!

Here, here!
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
VLM: Brilliant.

Though damn for your early '90s pricing.

Heh. Early '90s were already spiraling outta control. I owe most of our meager stock of Bordeaux to purchases made in the mid '80s ('83 Ch. Margaux for $35 in 1986 IIRC) and I was buying Chave Hermitage for $15-20 a pop (don't even think about what Verset and Clape were selling for then). Would that I'd known more about Burgundy and Piemonte then *sigh*

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM: an entire generation of ITBers are denied the opportunity to put these wines in context.

Who cares about ITBers.

Are you saying they don't taste enough to make good business decisions?

It's the rest of us with less access that I'm worried about!

You should.

A good wine merchant should be really important to you.

Where the fuck do you think all these wines we love come from? The wine merchant is the customer who does a lot of culling for us, the end consumer. You have no idea how much bullshit wine you have to taste through.

The fact that I have tasted wines from the great terroirs of the world is what gives me confidence that Croix Boise, Pergault, etc. are great terroir.
 
VLM and Rahsaan are both right: wine appreciators in general should be able to have these experiences as a way of developing their sense for the possibilities of the vinous medium, and ITBers need to be good wine appreciators more keenly than most.

Imagine a community of students of painting who had some access to most of the history of the subject, but only the very wealthy ones could ever look at say Titian, Rembrandt, Caravaggio, Monet, Picasso, and Pollock. Now, there is a hell of a lot of good painting outside these folks; plenty of people who were rich enough to afford the special museum where they were exhibited wouldn't really get the benefit of what they were looking at, and plenty of people who weren't but really paid attention to the works that were more commonly available would develop a keen critical sense. But there's no doubt that the latter would be missing something even so, and that more in the latter group would rise to a higher level of critical understanding if they had access to the omitted masters.

This is exactly the situation facing the middle class wine appreciator and aspiring ITBer today.
 
originally posted by Steven Spielmann:

Imagine a community of students of painting who had some access to most of the history of the subject, but only the very wealthy ones could ever look at say Titian, Rembrandt, Caravaggio, Monet, Picasso, and Pollock.
Before the establishment of museums at the end of the 18th/early 19th century, that's the way it was. You either could afford to travel and were able to get introductions to the palaces and country homes where many of the works were (in Italy, of course, a lot were in churches) or you made do with prints.
 
originally posted by VLM: A good wine merchant should be really important to you.

Of course they are important. They are essential.

They taste a lot of wine (from great to bad) to make their decisions.

But us average consumers taste a lot less wine and have a lot fewer 'connections' so those are the folks I'm more worried about.

Not that there isn't plenty of 'worry' to go around the wine business. As we've been discussing in recent days.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM: an entire generation of ITBers are denied the opportunity to put these wines in context.

Who cares about ITBers.

Are you saying they don't taste enough to make good business decisions?

It's the rest of us with less access that I'm worried about!

You should.

A good wine merchant should be really important to you.

Where the fuck do you think all these wines we love come from? The wine merchant is the customer who does a lot of culling for us, the end consumer. You have no idea how much bullshit wine you have to taste through.

The fact that I have tasted wines from the great terroirs of the world is what gives me confidence that Croix Boise, Pergault, etc. are great terroir.

Funny you should say this; I was just having a conversation with myself the other day about how much more a good importer counts than a good wine critic.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman: They will have to wait, or find some other way...

You mean having a shitload of money?

In this case, yes, it's about access to money, either your own or someone else's (who likes you enough to pour wine in your glass).
 
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