Wines with an M from Monday

Steven Spielmann

Steven Spielmann
Gerard Raphet Morey-Saint-Denis 2006: I have been jonesing for Burgundy lately and this scratched the itch. Although (thankfully) not an 'intense' wine, there are some beautiful and quite varied (some lighter, some richer) cherry-like smells and tastes hidden in here, and an initial spiciness and tartness on the attack softens up into delightful mouth-caressing fruit. Struck me as very pure. Might be better still in a decade, it's just starting to close down now but is still very charming.

Mario Perelli-Minetti Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon "Miriam" 1997: This was really quite good as well. I had the 2000 of this a year ago and it was an oak monster, but although the 1997 apparently received 2 1/2 years in oak as well it was just fine. Rich without being overbearing, soft but not flaccid, it had saturating dark fruits with red inflections, cassis, tobacco, graphite, good density, all-around yumminess. Apparently the now-deceased Mr. Perelli-Minetti thought this was the best wine he ever made, and it seems a reasonable possibility given how enjoyable this was. Fruit from the Soda Canyon hillside, 1500'. The casual winos at the table were delerious over its richness and fruit, but I found things to like as well. This could go a few more years but is probably at peak right now.
 
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