DC, Loesberg, Semon, Maxwell, Wine

Rahsaan

Rahsaan
I arrived in DC last week so it was about time to meet up with Jonathan Loesberg and Bob Semon to drink some wine. We started at the Grand Tasting of Bell Wine and Spirits. I mean nothing better than churning through 30 some-odd wines before sitting down to dinner. That said, most of them didnt leave much of an impression.

Of the few that did leave an impression, the 2005 Dagueneau Silex was refined and fine and definitely showed why it cost more than all the other mere mortal sauvignon blanc wines on display. But I still wouldnt pay $120 for the pleasure. I also had a pleasant reaction to the 2005 Pithon Anjou Les Ppinires which was pretty fresh, full, and firm and not as dominated by oak as I remember some of his dry whites being in the past. That said, it didnt speak to me enough to want to buy it, although maybe I might prefer recent vintages of his Croix Picot?

Three other wines that stood out to me were the 2007 Schoffit Chasselas VV which was (surprisingly) rich, fresh, and delightfully easy to drink (although again, at $23 Id probably rather have other stuff), the 2006 Mikael Bouges Touraine Les Cots Hauts which was ripe round juicy fun, and the 2006 Chidaine Chenin Blanc de Touraine which Bob was the first to herald as usefully easy basic chenin. Seems more successful than his negociant sauvignon blanc, but that could also just be because chenin is better than sauvignon blanc. There were various Southern French wines that Jonathan seemed to enjoy, but I wasnt paying attention.

And, it was time to leave for dinner anyway.

At the restaurant we started with a comparison of the old guard (2005 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec) and the middle-aged turk (2005 Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais). Both were very fine wines although to my tastes they were showing a bit heavy at the moment. I will be curious how the remainders taste tonight. The Bournais was great fun although I think it suffered by being served next to the Le Mont which was more focused, precise, and elegant. For last nights purposes I preferred the Le Mont but Im guessing that both will turn into something even more delicious in the future once they strip off some of that fat.

Next was the 2002 Olga Raffault Chinon Poplinire which was tart and crunchy and very refreshing. It felt constricted and sour around the edges at first, but it filled in (a bit) with air and became a pleasing drink although there were other more compelling wines on the table. Such as the 1996 Monchiero Carbone Roero Sr which had the requisitely firm nebbiolo tannin nails but also some delightful floral subtlety that made me want to keep re-pouring. Not the most complex, but worthy of several (too many) re-pours.

The 1997 Masi Rosso del Veronese Osar was interesting. It was very darkly fruited for my palate, but of course it had quite a firm acid (and tannin?) based structure. Could have been pleasing to drink at a casual meal, but truth be told I was more interested in the 2001 Texier Chateauneuf-du-Pape VV. This showed some comfortable resolved fruit and very very friendly drinking (again, a few too many re-pours into my glass). For most of the dinner this was my favorite wine, although at the end of the evening it started to feel a bit alcoholic. Of course that could have also been all the substances piling up in my body!

All in all, it was a great selection of wines and we had no complaints (well, other than my first choice for dinner being already sold-out, but thats a different story).
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
the 2006 Mikael Bouges Touraine Les Cots Hauts which was ripe round juicy fun

Wait a second... I thought you thought Bouges's Ct was a "clunker"...

Glad you've seen the light.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
the 2006 Mikael Bouges Touraine Les Cots Hauts which was ripe round juicy fun

Wait a second... I thought you thought Bouges's Ct was a "clunker"...

Glad you've seen the light.

This was a new bottling to me and actually came off a bit fresher than the other Ct bottlings I've had in the past. I don't know if that is just him renaming them, or if they are different in other ways?

That said, I always thought his wines were 'ripe round juicy fun' although yes, perhaps just a touch too clunky for me to get really excited or feel the need to buy them.
 
Oh, don't backpedal! Anyway, Les Hauts Cts has been the bottling of his I know. Not going to win the DRC prize for complexity, but as you note, "fun."
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Oh, don't backpedal! Anyway, Les Hauts Cts has been the bottling of his I know. Not going to win the DRC prize for complexity, but as you note, "fun."

I think you and I have talked about this before, but the "les couilles d'nes" was the Bouges cot bottling I had more experience with. It was richer, slicker, and clunkier than this LHC.
 
There were three reds at one tasting table all of which tasted distinctive to me at the time, but I guess not distinctive enough as I don't remember them this morning and don't have the cheat sheet with me. The generic Chidaine tasted, well, kind of generic and a little overripe to me, though I certainly wouldn't turn down a glass that was put in front of me. I was taken by the Silex too and would certainly buy it if it cost 20% of what it does. Nothing against the wine, just my cheapness. My one tenet of faith is that no wine is worth $100 a bottle--at least until I make enough so that Ben Franklyn starts to look like Andrew Jackson to me.

I have no complaints about any of your notes on the wines we had with dinner, although if I wanted to make the effort, I could probably work something up about liking the Masi better than you did (though not as much as either the nebbiolo or the Texier).

It's nice to have someone writing tasting notes up here again. Ever since Cole abandoned the responsibility, our dinners have been transitory wisps, leaving no trace on the public record.
 
The generic Chidaine tasted, well, kind of generic and a little overripe to me...

That was my initial reaction, although after my second taste it seemed to have pleasing depth for such a generic wine. Maybe my third taste would have swung back to negativity.
 
What meaneth this word, "crunchy"?

What kind of education did they give you in Hawaii?

More seriously, do you not like the use of 'crunchy' as a wine descriptor?

For me it is quite a clear sensation for wines that are tart, sour, and a texture that is almost crisp or crunchy.
 
Regarding the Schoffit: it actually had acid? That would be a new thing for Schoffit's Chasselas. Though the other descriptors are certainly on target.
 
originally posted by Thor:
Regarding the Schoffit: it actually had acid? That would be a new thing for Schoffit's Chasselas. Though the other descriptors are certainly on target.

So I take it they usually make this into a rich wine?

I don't drink much Chasselas but I always thought of it as a fairly pale neutral wine, so I was surprised to see this one so rich and especially in 2007. But, I guess 2007 explains why it was actually decently fresh.
 
More seriously, do you not like the use of 'crunchy' as a wine descriptor?

For me it is quite a clear sensation for wines that are tart, sour, and a texture that is almost crisp or crunchy.

I have nothing against it, I've just never seen it and didn't know what it meant in this context. The textural thought I had was along the lines of heavily tannic, but I wasn't sure if that was meant.

Tart, sour and crisp=crunchy; I can dig that. I think I'd have used 'racy' or 'nervy.'
 
So I take it they usually make this into a rich wine?

Yes. Chasselas from this portion of Alsace, and especially from Schoffit's vineyards (which include more flat, fertile land than most producers at this price level), tends towards fatness. As a rule, I enjoy the first glass and find the rest tiresome, but occasionally they come up with a little more balance. Sounds like they might have again in 2007.
 
Chasselas from this portion of Alsace, and especially from Schoffit's vineyards (which include more flat, fertile land than most producers at this price level), tends towards fatness.

Good to know, thanks.

Sadly, the distributor rep pouring the wine did not have any of this information and was pretty clueless when faced with my questions.
 
It's a tactile, textural quality as you would guess from its name. Gotta run to a meeting and will try to organize my thoughts.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
2005 Pithon Anjou Les Ppinires ... was pretty fresh, full, and firm
I've liked Jo Pithon's 2005s, but what I've tasted has been in a rather oxidative style, which from my understanding is Not Your Thing. However I've tasted the Anjou Les Bergres and Savennires La Croix Picot, and not the Ppinires.

maybe I might prefer recent vintages of his Croix Picot?
Not likely (see above).

2005 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec and 2005 Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais ... showing a bit heavy at the moment.
This has been my experience with 2005 Vouvray and Montlouis (Chidaine, Pinon, Huet) since release. I wonder if I will ever like this vintage in those AOCs.
 
originally posted by slaton:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
2005 Pithon Anjou Les Ppinires ... was pretty fresh, full, and firm
I've liked Jo Pithon's 2005s, but what I've tasted has been in a rather oxidative style

Interesting. I don't remember that from the previous vintages. He must have been experimenting quite a bit. If I understand correctly, Ppinires is the basic bottling that blends several vineyards so maybe it is more simple and straightforward and perhaps in the end the one likely to appeal most to my palate.

This has been my experience with 2005 Vouvray and Montlouis (Chidaine, Pinon, Huet) since release. I wonder if I will ever like this vintage in those AOCs.

Yes, my thoughts were pretty similar on the remainders of the bottles on day 2. So, I also wonder when these will start to enter my preference zone.
 
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