On a lovely NC evening, Jim and Diane made their way to Durham for dinner, joining myself and my folks as well as my friend Susannah (jello4prez).
It had been a while since I had seen Jim and Diane and things didn't skip a beat. Diane poking my belly asking where it had come from...
It was one of those nights where all the wines seemed to try to outshine each other.
We started at my place with a refreshing (2006) Pinon Non Dos before hitting the restaurant. The first course, foie gras enterier, was the 1997 Huet Molleux Clos de Bourg which was young, but in fantastic form and very much approachable to me. It went very well with the dish, of course.
Next up was the eagerly anticipated debut of the 2008 Cowan Cellars sauvignon "skin contact" and it did not disappoint. In fact, we were all blown away with how well it showed especially since Jim had been all full of warnings. I really liked the extra dimension given by the skin contact without the weariness of oxidation. A very interesting choice that made the wine seem not so sauvignon. It was surprising long and floral. My mother commented the next day that she was still thinking about it. I guess they need to get on the mailing list.
Another surprise was in store, the 2006 Mas de Gassac blanc which I don't think I've had in years. There was a surprising amount of lift to the wine as well as a sucrosity that was very pleasant, reminding me of Peillot Altesse.
As hard as that act was to follow, the 1997 Cathiard Romane-St.Vivant immediately turned heads and was the archetype of a "sexy" Vosne wine. All the requisite layers of fruit and spice as well as a head filling perfume ranks this as one of the best wines I've had this year. It was really a thrilling bottle of wine and showed no ill effects of being a 1997. I wouldn't hesitate to drink this now if you are sitting on it. Unfortunately, I can no longer even remotely afford Cathiard RSV.
As if that weren't enough, we had a bottle of the 1995 Allemand Reynard that may have been the best bottle to date I've had of this wine. Well shaped and long with really fine texture that restrained the more sauvauge Cornas qualities. A fascinating mix of high and low and only recapitulates the esteem with which I hold these wines. I personally preferred the Cathiard, but others found this to be even better. But it's not as if we needed to quibble.
Although it had a very tough act to follow, the 2007 Cowan Cellars syrah showed itself to be more than the one dimensional quaffer that Jim had led us to expect. While not in the same league as the Allemand, it did one thing that was of deep interest to those of us at the table, it became a more complete wine with the food and enhanced the experience of the food itself.
The only disappointment was a 2007 Tue-Boeuf Caillre which showed some sort of strange reduction/bacteria. It's the price I'm willing to pay for glorious bottles of this. I had hoped to give Jim the same experience, maybe next time.
It was a great time with great friends. As I told Jim, although "proud" is not quite the right word to use for my emotions towards his accomplishment with these wines, it certainly shares the sentiment.
It had been a while since I had seen Jim and Diane and things didn't skip a beat. Diane poking my belly asking where it had come from...
It was one of those nights where all the wines seemed to try to outshine each other.
We started at my place with a refreshing (2006) Pinon Non Dos before hitting the restaurant. The first course, foie gras enterier, was the 1997 Huet Molleux Clos de Bourg which was young, but in fantastic form and very much approachable to me. It went very well with the dish, of course.
Next up was the eagerly anticipated debut of the 2008 Cowan Cellars sauvignon "skin contact" and it did not disappoint. In fact, we were all blown away with how well it showed especially since Jim had been all full of warnings. I really liked the extra dimension given by the skin contact without the weariness of oxidation. A very interesting choice that made the wine seem not so sauvignon. It was surprising long and floral. My mother commented the next day that she was still thinking about it. I guess they need to get on the mailing list.
Another surprise was in store, the 2006 Mas de Gassac blanc which I don't think I've had in years. There was a surprising amount of lift to the wine as well as a sucrosity that was very pleasant, reminding me of Peillot Altesse.
As hard as that act was to follow, the 1997 Cathiard Romane-St.Vivant immediately turned heads and was the archetype of a "sexy" Vosne wine. All the requisite layers of fruit and spice as well as a head filling perfume ranks this as one of the best wines I've had this year. It was really a thrilling bottle of wine and showed no ill effects of being a 1997. I wouldn't hesitate to drink this now if you are sitting on it. Unfortunately, I can no longer even remotely afford Cathiard RSV.
As if that weren't enough, we had a bottle of the 1995 Allemand Reynard that may have been the best bottle to date I've had of this wine. Well shaped and long with really fine texture that restrained the more sauvauge Cornas qualities. A fascinating mix of high and low and only recapitulates the esteem with which I hold these wines. I personally preferred the Cathiard, but others found this to be even better. But it's not as if we needed to quibble.
Although it had a very tough act to follow, the 2007 Cowan Cellars syrah showed itself to be more than the one dimensional quaffer that Jim had led us to expect. While not in the same league as the Allemand, it did one thing that was of deep interest to those of us at the table, it became a more complete wine with the food and enhanced the experience of the food itself.
The only disappointment was a 2007 Tue-Boeuf Caillre which showed some sort of strange reduction/bacteria. It's the price I'm willing to pay for glorious bottles of this. I had hoped to give Jim the same experience, maybe next time.
It was a great time with great friends. As I told Jim, although "proud" is not quite the right word to use for my emotions towards his accomplishment with these wines, it certainly shares the sentiment.
