Two Aligot from Henri Naudin-Ferrand

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Bourgogne Aligot 2007
12,84; 11,53% abv; from 20-40 yo vines; from the communes of Magny-ls-Villers and Villers-la-Faye, Magny-ls-Villiers especially is noted for being exceptionally good for Aligot. And what a lovely wine this is! Citric and leesy scent. Crisp and seemingly light and ethereal on first impression, yet this is a very nervy, steely and substantial lightness. The aftertaste doesn't end. With a bit of white fish, this was just perfection. I love it on its own too. A great substitute for my darling Muscadet (which, despite some promising signs, has not materialized up here in the north).

Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Vin de Table Franais A... Naudin 007

24,60; unchaptalized and only 11% abv; if I understood correctly, there is only a little sulfur added (free sulfur 12mg/l; total sulfur 20mg/l); 753 bottles produced from the lieu-dit "En Vallerot" from 105yo vines (planted in 1902); ambient yeasts as is everything for this producer. A VdT for some reason I haven't yet managed to figure, but it shows the vintage as 007 on the front label and the grape Aligot as an acrostic poem on the back label.

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About a year ago I tried this at the importer's tasting and I must confess I got it all wrong back then. In that hurried atmosphere I felt it was a bit oaky and that the relevant aromas overwhelmed whatever else was in the wine. I am glad I was persuaded to buy a bottle now that this rare wine is available, as my view now is completely different. There are no oak aromas at all (and if I understood the French on the producer's website, this doesn't see any), Instead it shows a strong, leesy character, lovely citrus and minerality. Quite full body for Aligot, deliciously high acidity, I don't want to lift my nose from the glass and I don't want to stop sipping this; unbelievably moreish (thankfully it is only 11% abv, so the massive headache tomorrow is hopefully averted). Perfection, perhaps?
 
Gosh, the last vintage that i tried from this producer was a 1999 Hautes Cotes something or other blanc, I think. It has been haunting me ever since. I am happy to hear that the wines are tasting good!
 
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