The State of the Industry

Levi Dalton

Levi Dalton
Recently, I read somewhere that the price escalation of certain wines has led to a setting where it is impossible for young ITB types to experience benchmark bottles over a meal and develop their palates.

It is an interesting, if pessimistic, idea that merits some discourse.

I would hazard that there are still plenty of venues where one could work and gain exposure to august labels. One has to fish where the fish are running, so to speak.

I also think it is not all that important, really. The Greatest Hits playlist is predictable. The amazing access to the "little wines" of the world that we all enjoy right now is really what makes this the most exciting time in the history of the American wine market. Consumers are actually gaining a sense of context from the bottom up, so to speak, which hasn't happened in the market since the dawn of Points. Young people are learning and are curious to learn about a broad array of what is out there. It's amazing, and it is harbinger of a sophisticated wine market.

An English professor I learned from asked a class full of students that included me to read a book of "small" poems from the post-Civil War area. These had sometimes been written by former slaves who had not been formally educated. We are not talking John Donne here. The response from the students was entirely bleak. Nobody wanted to read these poems. Faulkner, Faulkner, where was the Faulkner? And the professor replied, how are you ever going to understand or appreciate anything if you cut yourself off from the subject? If the lens is so small? Where will the context be? He wanted us to build context from the bottom up, and to read the charms and insights and untamed characters of these "little" poems so that we could better appreciate Greatness when it came along.

I agree with that dude. Folks often don't want to be bothered with what isn't "Great". It leads to small minds and self-satisfaction, not to better understanding.

Personally, I've been giving a lot of thought to the other side of the industry spectrum lately. What happens to all the old waiters? The young will always find there way. What we are in danger of losing in this country is the 55 year old Captain who knows what a Ballontine is. Who can fillet tableside. These people are being put out to pasture as the venues they worked in close, and are replaced by haunts filled will antler horns, antique portraits, and young kids with expensive haircuts. All of that experience, knowledge, and ability to read a situation are being shoved aside. We aren't going to get that back.
 
I don't know if they provide context, or are archetypal, but there are terroirs with poor marketing departments that are important exemplars in my book. With wines that can be illuminating. An old Clos Roche Blanche gamay that Andrew Scott opened for me a decade or more ago. Good Cornas, which used to be unsaleable and is not yet quite out of reach. Allemand SS Cornas, which shows that there can be such a thing.

Levi, I suspect you of being jaded. Cappiello Syndrome, I think it's called.
 
I'm a little weary and can't expand too far, but it's related to the question the smart kids are debating over in the Kant thread. VLM keeps promising to tell us how to figure out objectively which are the Greats, but he hasn't yet come through. In the meantime, there is a lot of accumulated historical marketing that is a big part of things. Other regions, backwaters, far from markets, have great terroirs but less fame. Of course, also less investment so maybe they aren't quite realizing their full potentials. But you can still see that there are great wines that aren't yet famous.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I don't know if they provide context, or are archetypal, but there are terroirs with poor marketing departments that are important exemplars in my book. With wines that can be illuminating. An old Clos Roche Blanche gamay that Andrew Scott opened for me a decade or more ago. Good Cornas, which used to be unsaleable and is not yet quite out of reach. Allemand SS Cornas, which shows that there can be such a thing.

Levi, I suspect you of being jaded. Cappiello Syndrome, I think it's called.

I agree with all of that except the jaded part. I think you have the wrong guy there.

I would be the very last person to say that there aren't amazing, terroir redolent wines that sell cheaply. Like, the very last guy. In no place today is it more clear than Italy.

That I think they exist played a big part in the thinking behind my original post.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
originally posted by SFJoe:
I don't know if they provide context, or are archetypal, but there are terroirs with poor marketing departments that are important exemplars in my book. With wines that can be illuminating. An old Clos Roche Blanche gamay that Andrew Scott opened for me a decade or more ago. Good Cornas, which used to be unsaleable and is not yet quite out of reach. Allemand SS Cornas, which shows that there can be such a thing.

Levi, I suspect you of being jaded. Cappiello Syndrome, I think it's called.

I agree with all of that except the jaded part. I think you have the wrong guy there.

I would be the very last person to say that there aren't amazing, terroir redolent wines that sell cheaply. Like, the very last guy. In no place today is it more clear than Italy.

That I think they exist played was a big part of the thinking behind my original post.
Sure. I don't contradict you.

But it's possible you've burned out on high end Bordeaux, maybe.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:

But it's possible you've burned out on high end Bordeaux, maybe.

High end Bordeaux and I have been seeing a lot more of each other these last three weeks than was the case for the two years previous. I'm not unhappy about it. There have been some astonishingly good bottles.

California, I'm pretty jaded about. I admit it.

Bordeaux, I'm okay with.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
An English professor I learned from asked a class full of students that included me to read a book of "small" poems from the post-Civil War area. These had sometimes been written by former slaves who had not been formally educated.

I don't think this would be as much of a zinger if the students had not read "big" poems prior. Context is important.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
An English professor I learned from asked a class full of students that included me to read a book of "small" poems from the post-Civil War area. These had sometimes been written by former slaves who had not been formally educated.

I don't think this would be as much of a zinger if the students had not read "big" poems prior. Context is important.

He was a person that was deeply familiar with the history of American poetry, and he was arguing against skimming the mountain tops. He was trying to show young students who knew very little what it meant to be a scholar.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
I would be the very last person to say that there aren't amazing, terroir redolent wines that sell cheaply... In no place today is it more clear than Italy.

Levi, I'd love to hear some - extensive - details/examples.

Thanks,
Cristian
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I'm a little weary and can't expand too far, but it's related to the question the smart kids are debating over in the Kant thread. .

Joe--You're such a tease. I went looking for the Kant thread!
 
originally posted by Cristian Dezso:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
I would be the very last person to say that there aren't amazing, terroir redolent wines that sell cheaply... In no place today is it more clear than Italy.

Italy? Whoof? Okay. Levi, you know full well, you have my heart and my ears...and my corkscrew. But from Italy, most of what I want to drink is $$. Make that $$$. I can't think of anything under $15 that I want to buy. And little under $20. And those should by all counts be $11.
 
Bravo Levi! That was an extremely enjoyable read.

I was curious about your differing experience in terms of wine lists types between your new digs and your old ones. I've never been to either restaurant, and don't get to New York very often. But just browsing the lists, it seems like your new spot is much more of a high-end bordeaux/burgundy kind of place. Though that might be a bit unfair, as I'm sure you've only begun to shape the wine list in your own personal direction.

What I'm trying to say is I'm curious to hear your experiences with the kind of things you'll be exposed to at the new restaurant as compared with the old one.

And speaking to great wines/vs. gathering experience. Simple economics (and I'm not crying poverty, here) push me in the in the search for amazing, terroir redolent wines. They are out there, and that is what I spend my time and money looking for. The interesting and I suppose difficult thing is trying to glean as much information as I can from a single bottle of wine. If I don't like something, why is that? Bad bottle? wrong producer? bad vintage? bad terroir? bad varietal? should have planted cabernet? too much oak? When I try to understand more than what is in the glass it's almost too much. But that doesn't mean I'm not going to enjoy trying to figure (more) out. I just can't spend mental energy on things like bordeaux, because that's a game I just can't play.

Cheers,

Kevin
 
originally posted by Alice F.:
originally posted by SFJoe:
I'm a little weary and can't expand too far, but it's related to the question the smart kids are debating over in the Kant thread. .

Joe--You're such a tease. I went looking for the Kant thread!
I meant this one, alice, but there are plenty of others if you search:
 
Speaking of Civil War poems, something one of the best English teachers I ever had made us memorize in 11th grade:

SHILOH: A REQUIEM
by: Herman Melville (1819-1891)

Skimming lightly, wheeling still,
The swallows fly low
Over the field in clouded days,
The forest-field of Shiloh--
Over the field where April rain
Solaced the parched one stretched in pain
Through the pause of night
That followed the Sunday fight
Around the church of Shiloh--
The church so lone, the log-built one,
That echoed to many a parting groan
And natural prayer
Of dying foemen mingled there--
Foemen at morn, but friends at eve--
Fame or country least their care:
(What like a bullet can undeceive!)
But now they lie low,
While over them the swallows skim
And all is hushed at Shiloh.

Context is great, and maybe even essential (Melville doesn't suck), but I love the idea that being ITB these days might be more ground-up and open-minded and skip the whole phase of being obsessed with points, or critics who are obsessed with points, and the really important wines.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
What Sharon and Yixin say. Unless you know great wines (only) instinctively?

Surely no one said that one shouldn't drink such wines when they come along. That would be foolish. I did not say that Faulkner or Haut Brion is unworthy of your time.

My thesis was that ITB types have more exposure than ever before, not less. While the price of Chateau Margaux is higher than it was, the bottled options available in the market now are startlingly diverse.

Champagne is a standout example in this context. You could look at the market as it stands and wring your hands at the fact that Clos du Mesnil from Krug is out of your price range. Or you could revel in the fact that more grower bottlings have hit US shores than ever before. It is truly possible to get a handle on the varied terroirs of the region now, where once one was often confined to chosing between the given taste of a blending facility located in Reims, contrasted with another such facility in Epernay.
 
I don't buy the idea that one needs to know Faulkner to appreciate poetry written by slaves or anyone similarly unknown. I don't think people need to taste DRC to appreciate a solid unknown pinot either. Too bad wines can't be viewed in a museum like Greek sculpture and Manet can be....at least the art is affordably experienced...the wine not. Does it matter?

We are in a po-mo wine world now. There are so many fabulous wines...sometimes earth-shattering - from producers who prefer to be under the radar, I couldn't be happier spending that hard earned $15 - $20 these days. The whole idea (and value) of a so-called wine critic is crumbling. I've had a few classic wines, but in general, compared to several disorderlies here, I don't know what I'm missing, so...whatever. On the other hand, who cares when there is so much fabulous shit out there right now? Stuff that lives in the glass. We had a 99 Smith-Haut Lafite last night...not bad (and no real pinnacle, I realize, but far better than the '00), but still, whoopee do. Two nights ago we had a Lapierre 07 bojo...12 frikken bucks and my last bottle. That was something to cry about. To my palate, the Lapierre said so much more and I actually got a little depressed loving it so much, knowing it was the last I'd see of that vintage. It was more than tasty, it had dimensions to it...the tongue and brain danced.

I am not sure one can dissociate the so-called pinnacle wines from the world that created their real and/or perceived value. That world is changed, I think. I've no doubt some of those wines would rock...but really, would they rock any more than the loads of under $50 wines discussed here? Not so many, I think. I'm no ITB person....but personally I think the whole paradigm is shifting for the better. Those in the business either need to pay for their own education, or friend up collectors. Levi is right....by choice and one's own motivation, nothing is out of reach. Just depends on one's intent. Not to know those classics is no tragedy, given what's in front of one's face right now.
 
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