Romorantin from Claude Courtois

O

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
2005 Claude Courtois Les Cailloux du Paradis Romorantin 12.8%
N.V., but the fine print says 2005/6 and the cork 2005. Was thrilled to find this in So Paulo and paid the local markup because its hard to find in the US and doesnt look available in New York.

Gold verging on orange, quite different from the straw of the 96 and 02 Cazins. Mildly oxidative aromas, with almonds, ferric rust and apricot. Lovely rich fruit, vibrant acidity, satisfying body. But the oxidative aspect, that grows rather than diminishes with food and rising temperature, makes it more interesting than delicious. Its a bit maddening to not know if its intentional. The cork is scrawny and looks permissive (Courtois is/was known for using poor quality corks). Found no tasting notes online, but Keith tasted an 05 Puzelat Romorantin that was also oxidative, so maybe its the outlaw Loire hippie style. Until further notice, Cazin remains king of the Romorantin hill. My current object of desire: the expensive ungrafted Romorantin made by Marionnet.
 
Yes, some are purposely oxidative. Try Villemade's Acacias for that style (which I tend to like, even prefer to Cazin; the latter having too much rs for my tastes).

06 Provignage tasted last August was gorgeous. 00 of same, on the road to shot. Premox. And that was not intended.
 
Interesting comparison, I wonder how much deliberate oxidation early on correlates with premox later on, if at all. In fact, I sometimes wonder if the difference between premox and delibox is just a matter of degree (unlikely), or whether there's some technical/chemical difference in the nature of the oxidation that one can train oneself to distinguish. Sigh, I just don't have enough experience tasting the intended and the unintended side-by-side to develop a more confident sense of what might be their differences...
 
I had the '00 Provignage young, and it was a big wall of rocks. Seemed destined for a long, long life. I plan to open one next week, fingers crossed for a better outcome.
 
You said in a thread once you like Tessier.
I have some of the 2005 Puzelat I found as a straggler at a local wine store. Will the oxidation get worse if I wait to drink it?
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Romorantin from Claude Courtois2005 Claude Courtois Les Cailloux du Paradis Romorantin 12.8%
N.V., but the fine print says 2005/6 and the cork 2005. Was thrilled to find this in So Paulo and paid the local markup because its hard to find in the US and doesnt look available in New York.

Gold verging on orange, quite different from the straw of the 96 and 02 Cazins. Mildly oxidative aromas, with almonds, ferric rust and apricot. Lovely rich fruit, vibrant acidity, satisfying body. But the oxidative aspect, that grows rather than diminishes with food and rising temperature, makes it more interesting than delicious. Its a bit maddening to not know if its intentional. The cork is scrawny and looks permissive (Courtois is/was known for using poor quality corks). Found no tasting notes online, but Keith tasted an 05 Puzelat Romorantin that was also oxidative, so maybe its the outlaw Loire hippie style. Until further notice, Cazin remains king of the Romorantin hill. My current object of desire: the expensive ungrafted Romorantin made by Marionnet.
Click to expand...

Had the Marionnet at Colicchio & Sons on Sunday, Oswaldo. It is superb; rich and luscious without being heavy; great acidity and balance; sort of a creamy, stoney, citrusy,coppery thing going on. Excellent with the chorizo and octopus agnelotti as well as the stinging nettles, black trumpet and ramps ravioli.

I'd be happy to revisit it. Next time you are in NYC, give me a shout, we can grab lunch or dinner and split a bottle.
 
I opened my last 2000 Provignage at the Freedom Pie fest and it was dead. Two other bottles within the last year also dead or dying. As recently as 3-4 years ago it was stunning and vibrant. On the basis of that, Marionnet always got my nod as king of the romorantin hill... but what a tragedy. I wonder if I have to put my 2005s in the "drink up soon" pile.
 
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