Interesting wines

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Vnyd.:
13.7% alcohol; needs about an hour to open and when it does, warm black fruit, spice and a sort of smoky herb note dominate the nose; satin in the mouth gorgeous texture with sweet black fruit, hints of red fruit, some spice and just a slight hint of herb, well-integrated and balanced, no bottle bouquet yet, bright acidity this really has it all for a young wine (and thats how it shows). I always liked this vineyard designate the best of the BP wines and this bottle supports that opinion by giving more than expected for a ten year old Oregon pinot.
Beyond words with mushroom pizza.

2007 Do Ferreiro, Albario Cepas Vellas:
13.5% alcohol; how often does one get to taste the best of a variety? Make no mistake, this is it; aromas of peaches, unripe pineapple, curry spice and a light brine quality, all in harmony; on the palate the rich peachiness is there but no sweetness or cloy, lively with spice, brine and acids keeping things bright, very concentrated but not weighty, intense, perfect balance, sappy; extremely long finish that reprises the flavors and cut. Comes from 200 year old vines, own-rooted in sand, close to the Atlantic from the vineyard Eira de Galianes in Rias Baixas, Spain. Superb and the benchmark for the variety.
Decant at least an hour before service.
Excellent along side pasta with kale, olives and tomatoes.

2004 Valtier, Utiel-Requena Reserva:
Mostly bobal with likely some tempranillo and/or grenache; 13% abv; $6; the Utiel-Requena DO is in Valencia in southeastern Spain; initial nose is dusty with some prune (but not raisin) aromas, a distinct earthiness and very gentle oak it develops over time and loses the dusty character and becomes much more potent; likewise, the palate is light and somewhat delicate to start but morphs into a full-flavored and fairly rich delivery of flavors that follow the nose, medium bodied, talc-like tannins, pinot-esque texture, and medium length. I rather like the wine as it is moderately complex with an individual character.
The prune aromas and flavors dont seem to be from over-ripeness but rather a component of the varieties used in the making.
I know that this region is noted for its doble pasta wines; fermentation on the lees of other recently fermented grapes, and that may account for the prune notes or not.
In any event, a long time since I have tasted a $6 wine that made me think. I also note that older vintages are available in the market at very reasonable prices and will try some of those.
This wine was sensational with Posole Rojo made with Rancho Gordo hominy.

Best, Jim
 
Lyle,
Fillaboa's Monte Alto is certainly one of the better Albario out there and while, personally, I put it a step behind the CV, it isn't far.

Mark,
VLM may have more experience/info. with aging these (I think he knows the maker and importer), I have none. My guess would be they would go awhile - 20 years, I just don't know.

Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
what's the scoop on aging Do Ferreiro? i would think they could easily remain interesting for 20 yrs.
thanks, Mark

I've never been a fan of aging Albarino. When they get old, for my palate, they seem dull. The youthful energy seems gone. But YMMV.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Lyle,
Fillaboa's Monte Alto is certainly one of the better Albario out there and while, personally, I put it a step behind the CV, it isn't far.

Mark,
VLM may have more experience/info. with aging these (I think he knows the maker and importer), I have none. My guess would be they would go awhile - 20 years, I just don't know.

Best, Jim

Jim,

Will have to check that out. Is it also Cepas Vellas?
 
Cepas Vellas ages quite well, better than other albarios

As you say, albario loses some freshness with age. Nevertheless, here in Spain no one wants albario that's not from the previous year. This is, in my humble opinion, a clear error, as some albarios can age gracefully for 4-5 years

Other top albarios are Pazo de Seorans Seleccin de Aada (2004 is drinking very well at the moment), Lusco Pazo Pieiro, Feifaanes; and Soalheiro Cepas Velhas (from Portugal)
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Lyle,
Fillaboa's Monte Alto is certainly one of the better Albario out there and while, personally, I put it a step behind the CV, it isn't far.

Mark,
VLM may have more experience/info. with aging these (I think he knows the maker and importer), I have none. My guess would be they would go awhile - 20 years, I just don't know.

Best, Jim

The 2000 is drinking beautifully right now.
 
originally posted by Ignacio Villalgordo:
Cepas Vellas ages quite well, better than other albarios

As you say, albario loses some freshness with age. Nevertheless, here in Spain no one wants albario that's not from the previous year. This is, in my humble opinion, a clear error, as some albarios can age gracefully for 4-5 years

Other top albarios are Pazo de Seorans Seleccin de Aada (2004 is drinking very well at the moment), Lusco Pazo Pieiro, Feifaanes; and Soalheiro Cepas Velhas (from Portugal)

Ignacio - what about Raul Perez's 'Muti'? This seems like a fine one, if a little short, judging from the 07.
 
originally posted by Lyle Fass:
Cepas is the pinnacle. Wish other Albarinos could come close. They don't.
They do, of course. Don't be such an extremist, Lyle. Take a cue from Jim and Ignacio.

On the aging thing, I've often told the story about 24 year-old Do Ferreiro (regular bottling) which I tasted with Jancis Robinson under Gerardo Mndez's old vines, and it was totally alive even though, logically, on its way down. But 1996 Seorans Seleccin de Aada is a great drink right now - while obviously an entirely different animal from a bottle of 2009 Seorans.
 
It's my neck o'the woods, Jim. Manchuela and Utiel-Requena are adjoining appellations in southeastern Spain, and 95% of the world's bobal grows there - one-third of a whopping 100,000 hectares (Spain's No. 2 red grape variety in acreage behind tempranillo's 180,000) in Utiel-Requena, the rest in Manchuela.

It's an interesting, albeit not ultra-refined variety (the tannins are almost always a little rustic). It has good dark fruits and more freshness, for the latitude, than either garnacha/grenache or monastrell/mourvdre. Viticulturally it's difficult - it suffers a lot from cold weather spells in the spring and from uneven ripening, plus very uneven berry and bunch sizes. But with dedication you can make something interesting with it. We have a 71 year-old and a 50 year-old bobal vineyard, and we harvest about 10 tons of it every year.

Valtier is an extremely inexpensive wine (100% bobal, in principle) sold by Enotec, a ngociant-type firm (I don't know where it's actually made), whose headquarters are in... faraway Rioja! It's made basically for export, and I've never seen it or tasted it in Spain.
 
originally posted by VS:
Viticulturally it's difficult - it suffers a lot from cold weather spells in the spring and from uneven ripening, plus very uneven berry and bunch sizes. But with dedication you can make something interesting with it.

Sounds like zinfandel.
 
originally posted by VS:
Well, they're both Mediterranean in origin... Not much else in common, though.

Bobal actually is more interesting in my opinion. More dark, more soul, less jammy and brambly.

and Victor If I wasn't an extremist, there wouldn't be much left.

I had that '96 actually and the '97 at a dinner in Charlotte back in the day when I used to work for Eric Solomon. They had structure. So that doesn't surprise me.
 
originally posted by Lyle Fass:
originally posted by VS:
Well, they're both Mediterranean in origin... Not much else in common, though.

Bobal actually is more interesting in my opinion. More dark, more soul, less jammy and brambly.

and Victor If I wasn't an extremist, there wouldn't be much left.

I had that '96 actually and the '97 at a dinner in Charlotte back in the day when I used to work for Eric Solomon. They had structure. So that doesn't surprise me.

I would agree with this. There's always an animal funk in it that reminds me of Burgundy (fruit character & tannins are totally different). It seems very close to Mourvedre to me in a lot of ways.
 
originally posted by MarkS:


Ignacio - what about Raul Perez's 'Muti'? This seems like a fine one, if a little short, judging from the 07.

I am not the greatest of fans of Raul Perez's albarios. Muti and Sketch. They are both raised in oak, which shows in the wines. I like their minerality, but sometimes I find them over creamy and a tad tropical
 
originally posted by Morgan Harris:
It seems very close to Mourvedre to me in a lot of ways.
I grow and vinify both bobal and monastrell, Morgan, and believe me - they bear very little resemblance to each other, viticulturally or in the bottle. Mourvdre is richer, funkier, more complex, smoother but more alcoholic; bobal is fresher, more rustic, more straightforward. They are both reductive, and they both age well - at least these are interesting points in common.
 
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