Bucelas

S

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Companhia das Quintas (Quinta da Romeira) Bucelas Morgado de Sta. Catherina Reserva 2007

17,77; Companhia das Quintas consists of seven properties around Portugal; the one from Bucelas is called Quinta da Romeira. 13,5% abv; 100% Arinto; 9 months in new French oak.

In the 1970s there was only one producer making wine in Bucelas. But it hasn't always been in such a sorry state. Shakespeare mentions it in Henry VI but uses the name Charneco (from the village of Charneca close to where the wines are grown); Wellington made it popular in England (as he did with Carcavelos), where it became known as Portuguese Hock because of its similarities to Riesling (though neither Arinto nor Esgana Co is related). Though it doesn't seem to be a household name today, it's prospects are brighter as apparently the area under vine has increased and investments are being put in.

I was very excited to taste this wine as I have had pleasant experiences with these stranger appellations of Portugal. But unfortunately I was sorely disappointed. Despite some lovely citric aromas and pleasantly high acidity (both Arinto and the other grape grown, Esgana Co, are known for their ability to retain high acidity in a hot climate) the overwhelming impression is of unpleasant, saw-dust oak. Toffee on the finish. Other than the good acidity, this seems like a stereotype of Californian Chardonnay. I really hope that this particular wine is just a freak - it would be a shame if revitalizing the region means making wine in a style that can be and is made everywhere.

I guess some less californicated Bucelas must be made? Who makes it?
 
Bummer. So much of this stuff (hot climate Portuguese) is acidified, at least it wasn't that. BTW, Esgana Co literally means Strangle the Dog.
 
Hot climate "Riesling" doesn't sound too promising, but mimicing the wood chip California Chardonnay style espoused by some (not all) producers seems like a misstep. With any luck the area will eventually find its own voice. Whatever that may be. I've never tried a Portugese white, but I do have a few bottle of a Niepoort white blend (I'm not even sure what varieties are used) that I'm looking forward to trying soon.

Thanks for the note.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Bummer. So much of this stuff (hot climate Portuguese) is acidified, at least it wasn't that. BTW, Esgana Co literally means Strangle the Dog.
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Isn't there a synonym in french for Mourvedre that translates literally as "The Dog Strangler" as well?
 
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:
BucelasCompanhia das Quintas (Quinta da Romeira) Bucelas Morgado de Sta. Catherina Reserva 2007
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This is Comphania das Quintas top-bottling - which means aged in new french oak. It does nothing good to the arinto-grape. I would rather recommend their Prova regia. Unoaked 100% arinto. Much cheaper and much better. And I think it also is a Bucelas by name.

Others that make Bucelas branco is Quinta da Murta, Caves Velhas. Quinta da Fonte Bela makes a 100% arinto named Paxis, but I don't think it is Bucelas. I have not tried any of these three.
 
And of course the unoaked one isn't available. Alko always knows Finns' tastes better than we do and will always provide the spoofy one for us.
 
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