Montenegrin and bear it

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
2007 Plantae Cabernet Crnogorski 13.0%
A present from relatives by marriage who live in Croatia. Dastardly to look a gift horse in the mouth, but Ill do it for the team. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and indigenous Vranac from Montenegro. Made from 15-30 yr old vines, spends a year in wood of unspecified age (but no oak taste). Cherry, tar and violets, lightly infused with dishrag. Good body and ample acidity, but hollow mid palate and short, sour finish, with enough iodine to disinfect a small hamlets water supply. The correct alcohol and acidity, and the lack of oak, are all pleasing, but the fruit is not particularly. A reminder that correct dont mean good, and that NOT hiring a Cambie or a Rolland hardly makes for a satisfying traditionally-made wine. Also a reminder of the importance of having a like-minded importer acting as filter in the middle of the food chain.
 
And according to the recent NYer article, a whole lotta jewel thieves in Montenegro. With that story undoubtedly soon to be made into a sexy heist movie.
 
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