1992 Adega Regional de Colares

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
1992 Adega Regional de Colares 11.0%
Brought back from a trip to Colares last December (the local coop has wine going back to the 1930s at steeply escalating prices; this cost Euro thirtysomething). From ungrafted vines planted on sandy soils. Shows straightforward aromas of blackberry, tar and leather. Mouthfeel is lovely, plush without being fat, surprisingly dense for 11%. Acidity is powerful and requires food, after which it finds balance with the vivacious, but not complex, fruit. The only offputting note is a come-and-go metallic finish, similar to silvery fish scales. Marcia also didn't like what she called an unusual "leafy" taste which I could barely discern, a medicinal relative of eucapyptus. At the end of the day, this was a mixed pleasure: there was much to like about it, but the only things that were unique were also the ones that were offputting. And the bottle was put away unfinished. Chalk this one down to exploration.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
I admire your fortitude. These will never see the light of day in a wine shop here.

This is actually about to change. Jose Pastor is bringing a Colares Ramisco in - not sure it's the same producer, but there are only two producers in the region, so I've got a 50/50 shot.

The '04 he poured me (and Eric A.) was delicious - high-toned nebbiolo-ish structure, smoky syrah-ish notes, but with a real purity of middle-weight brambley red-blue fruits. 500ml bottle.
 
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