Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Recent positives about the drinkability of 2001 Bdxs, coupled with an outpouring of LMHB love, made me check into my handful of Larmandes and LMHBs, both of which had shown closed as part of a small Bdx tasting in February of last year. I had planned to let them reach the ten year mark before revisiting, but Ill take any excuse to break a self-imposed discipline.
2001 Chateau Larmande Saint-milion GC 13.5%
Decanted two hours. Aromatically closed, with faint cherry on the cusp of dawn. Lively inner mouth with stereoscopic laterals, correct acid/sweet balance, lively tannins, satisfying weight, the trio lightly marred by a bitter finish that vanishes with food. The aromas never awaken, but drinking a full bottle, as opposed to sipping or tasting, is a surprising pleasure. Still needs time, but performs much better as a pampered only child than as a participant in a police lineup. Boo for tastings.
2001 La Mission Haut Brion Pessac Leognan 13.5%
Decanted two hours. Nose even more closed than its merloutish cousin, showing elegant but one-dimensional blackberries and light smoke. Classy mouth feel, exemplary acid/sweet balance, light tannins, domesticated alcohol, well-integrated (i.e., undetectable) oak. No trace of perfidious modernity, but inexpressive on the organoleptic front.
A closed wine can have its charms, like an ornate but empty picture frame.
2001 Chateau Larmande Saint-milion GC 13.5%
Decanted two hours. Aromatically closed, with faint cherry on the cusp of dawn. Lively inner mouth with stereoscopic laterals, correct acid/sweet balance, lively tannins, satisfying weight, the trio lightly marred by a bitter finish that vanishes with food. The aromas never awaken, but drinking a full bottle, as opposed to sipping or tasting, is a surprising pleasure. Still needs time, but performs much better as a pampered only child than as a participant in a police lineup. Boo for tastings.
2001 La Mission Haut Brion Pessac Leognan 13.5%
Decanted two hours. Nose even more closed than its merloutish cousin, showing elegant but one-dimensional blackberries and light smoke. Classy mouth feel, exemplary acid/sweet balance, light tannins, domesticated alcohol, well-integrated (i.e., undetectable) oak. No trace of perfidious modernity, but inexpressive on the organoleptic front.
A closed wine can have its charms, like an ornate but empty picture frame.