Ian Fitzsimmons
Ian Fitzsimmons
Closel Brut Sauvage NV (2005)
Medium-bodied, with yeasty aromas and flavor, and a somewhat sauvage bead. A bit elbowy, almost rustic for a cremant, but clean and good. Modest fruit and complexity, but altogether likable and good with Thai stir-fry. I liked this quite a bit, though it may not show in the note. $19 from CSW. What does Sauvage mean here?
Peillot NV Bugey VDQS Montaignieu Brut
Light-medium bodied, fine froth, with tasty light and elegant fruit on the nose and tongue. Charming. Somehow, I liked the Closel better, though, which showed more sincerity, or something. The Peillot was almost too charming by the end of the bottle. Good by the glass as an aperitif. $18, CSW.
Pena das Donas 2008 Ribeira Sacra Almalarga Godello
Made from very old Godello vines, per Chambers, this is a medium- to full-bodied white with a smokey aroma, pleasant weight and density, and refined acids that, hardly noticeable on the attack, clean up thoroughly at the end. Comparing to familiar varietals, the nose resembled that of a well-made muscadet, the texture was similar to a well-made southern Cote dOr white Burg, and the smokey flavor was reminiscent of Vatan Sancerre. Should stand up to chicken and pork well. Id buy again. $21, CSW.
Domaine des Petites Quarts 1996 Coteaux de Layon
Classic sweet Chenin, modest caramel sweetness nicely balanced by zippy acidity. Better the second night. Perfect for desert with strawberries and vanilla ice cream. The vintage is a sentimental favorite for me and my wife. Imported by Louis/Dressner. Less than $10 on auction.
Montbourgeau NV Cremant de Jura Brut
Very finely crafted wine with champagne-like dryness and bead, which you rarely find (or necessarily want) in cremant. Very high-toned: 'breed and pedigree,' as Serena Sutcliffe might say. Good chardonnay fruit, though modest, drinking over a three-four hour period. Too austere for me; maybe exceptional for some. $20, CSW.
Baudry 2009 Chinon Rose
Barely pink, sea-breezey nose with a hint of band-aid. Surprising body for a delicate-looking rose. Pleasantly intense with well-balanced fruit and acids. Perhaps a bit of residual sugar? Charming, but delicate, or simply young open in the fridge for an hour or so, it went flat, losing much of its charm, or else shut down. Fine wine, but too lieblich to love. $16+, CSW.
Guion 2007 Bourgueil Prestige
Boisterous cherry-jello red, nose of cherry, green wood, and band-aid. Light-medium bodied at 12.5 % abv, friendly fruit and furry tannins with delicious intense acidity. Would probably improve with age, but easy to drink now with a meal in this case Rancho Gordo beans and chicken with beer-sourdough wheat bread. $13+, CSW.
Medium-bodied, with yeasty aromas and flavor, and a somewhat sauvage bead. A bit elbowy, almost rustic for a cremant, but clean and good. Modest fruit and complexity, but altogether likable and good with Thai stir-fry. I liked this quite a bit, though it may not show in the note. $19 from CSW. What does Sauvage mean here?
Peillot NV Bugey VDQS Montaignieu Brut
Light-medium bodied, fine froth, with tasty light and elegant fruit on the nose and tongue. Charming. Somehow, I liked the Closel better, though, which showed more sincerity, or something. The Peillot was almost too charming by the end of the bottle. Good by the glass as an aperitif. $18, CSW.
Pena das Donas 2008 Ribeira Sacra Almalarga Godello
Made from very old Godello vines, per Chambers, this is a medium- to full-bodied white with a smokey aroma, pleasant weight and density, and refined acids that, hardly noticeable on the attack, clean up thoroughly at the end. Comparing to familiar varietals, the nose resembled that of a well-made muscadet, the texture was similar to a well-made southern Cote dOr white Burg, and the smokey flavor was reminiscent of Vatan Sancerre. Should stand up to chicken and pork well. Id buy again. $21, CSW.
Domaine des Petites Quarts 1996 Coteaux de Layon
Classic sweet Chenin, modest caramel sweetness nicely balanced by zippy acidity. Better the second night. Perfect for desert with strawberries and vanilla ice cream. The vintage is a sentimental favorite for me and my wife. Imported by Louis/Dressner. Less than $10 on auction.
Montbourgeau NV Cremant de Jura Brut
Very finely crafted wine with champagne-like dryness and bead, which you rarely find (or necessarily want) in cremant. Very high-toned: 'breed and pedigree,' as Serena Sutcliffe might say. Good chardonnay fruit, though modest, drinking over a three-four hour period. Too austere for me; maybe exceptional for some. $20, CSW.
Baudry 2009 Chinon Rose
Barely pink, sea-breezey nose with a hint of band-aid. Surprising body for a delicate-looking rose. Pleasantly intense with well-balanced fruit and acids. Perhaps a bit of residual sugar? Charming, but delicate, or simply young open in the fridge for an hour or so, it went flat, losing much of its charm, or else shut down. Fine wine, but too lieblich to love. $16+, CSW.
Guion 2007 Bourgueil Prestige
Boisterous cherry-jello red, nose of cherry, green wood, and band-aid. Light-medium bodied at 12.5 % abv, friendly fruit and furry tannins with delicious intense acidity. Would probably improve with age, but easy to drink now with a meal in this case Rancho Gordo beans and chicken with beer-sourdough wheat bread. $13+, CSW.