Orange Malvazja as Beer-Wine?

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
IIRC, VLM called a Donati Malvasia a beer wine. I think I might now understand. I opened a bottle of Čotar Malvazja 2002 tonight. 13% abv. Light orange colour. The scent is lovely, but not exactly mainstream: despite being very vinous my thoughts kept turning to imagery familiar from beer. It smells malty and slightly funky la Orval (brett in whites must be rare?). Earthy aromas are coupled to vibrant orange/sweet citrus scents. Quite steely on the palate, very well delineated, refreshing and moreish. But it is actually quite full bodied, I find upon reflection, though my initial impression was an illusion of lightness. Lovely.
 
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