Nine days in Beaujolais [updated with text and bonus photos, travel details added, I swear that's it]

originally posted by Matteo Mollo:
As it turns out i may be visiting the Beaujolais this september. May i ask what gite you stayed in and if you liked it?

Great post, looking forward to my trip.
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Matteo, I'm emailing you more details on the gite. We liked it a lot, but it is not de luxe.

Bear in mind you will be there during the harvest. It's a really exciting time to be there (we were there in 9/05), but it will be hectic and it will be hard to connect with winemakers. It really depends on when in Sept. and when the harvest ends up being. We were in Fuisse for two weeks, the week prior to start and then the first week of harvest. We had much more access prior, it all depends on the winemaker. If you are interested you may be able to help out but realistically only if you really want to jump in and work hard. It's is quite cosmopolitan, with students, baba-cools, eastern Europeans, and Africans all milling around. Villie Morgon is a zoo. Depending on the gite it may be tough to rent (generally, if the gite is owned by a winemaker, they are almost certain to use it for picker accommodation).
 
originally posted by John Ritchie:
Great writeup and pictures, thanks! My wife and I just went on our first trip to France (travel noobs) and had 3 of the wines in Paris that you tasted at the domaines. My experiences were right in line with yours, especially with the '08 Lapierre Morgon and the '09 JP Thevenet Morgon "Le Clachet" which I assume was the young-vine cuve you mention. I found the latter especially bright and forward yet still balanced. We also had an '06 3.14 over the course of two nights, and it just confused me. The first night it was dark, stony and quite closed. It barely started to open up with air and we were tired so decided to save the rest for the next night. Sadly, it had really fallen apart on day 2 and was harsh and pruney. I'm not sure what that says about aging potential, but I do wish I had more bottles to learn with.
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That's it, the Le Clachet. It's a real nice wine.

Your experience with the 06 3.14 was exactly ours. We had it over several days and it just got worse. My least favorite of the ubers.
 
Add me to the confused/not convinced on the 3.14. On a recent Trip to Paris I found it readily available and tried it three times and it reminded me of a Syrah and not really what I want from Gamay. I brought some home in Magnum and look forward to trying it in several years.
 
An added benefit of Beaujolais is that it is super accessible to both Paris and Lyon. The Macon-Loche TGV station is quite a boon, located at the Maconnais/Beaujolais border. It is an hour and a half TGV ride from Gare du Lyon. We caught a 7:24 train and it gave us the whole day. You can rent a car at the station (pay attention to hours open, very limited). Or you can cab into the main car rental places in Macon, and it's actually cheaper (there's a 35 Euro supplement to pick up at the station). It is the epitome of easy, convenient travel though - a drive around the crus, lunch at Auberge du Cep and a producer visit in one day from Paris is a completely realistic option (in fact Mme. Chagny said people did that fairly regularly). Make sure you track down the detailed Beaujeu/Belleville IGN blue map (2929ET) ahead of time so you can find stuff. Or get it at a Tabac or librarie when you get there if you have more time.

Going the other way from Lyon, it's just a quick hop up the TGV line. Or the drive from downtown Lyon is very quick, just over a half hour if you avoid traffic.

We flew in CDG Paris, spent time there, TGV'ed to Macon, rented a car, and then at the end of the trip flew out of Lyon. It was about an hour plus from Regnie to the airport. The Lyon airport is way, way easier to deal with the CDG - we will be using it again. Plus you get to see the cool Renzo Piano TGV station. (Come to think of it, Lyon airport - Lyon airport TGV station - TGV to Macon - rent car would be a really great way to go, to all sorts of places in that part of France).

A couple more wines:

02 Domaine Calot Morgon Cuvee Jeanne - Classic older Morgon, quite nice actually, meats and flowers, better than most 02s I've had recently including Coudert, Foillard, and Lapierre. Also better than the 94 Jeanne we had on last visit.

91 Chateau de Jacques MaV (pre Jadot)(purchased at Bacchus et Ariane in Paris)- drunk with Agnes Foillard and friends. Really over the hill, honeyed and a bit oxidized, a curiousity. It surprised me, given the year it should have been great. But Agnes said it was about where she would expect, and that Jacques at that time (and now) is produced a bit forward so wouldn't be a long ager. Or I think I got the right gist.
 
The 3,14 still reminds me of New Zealand pinot. I mostly like NZ pinot noir, so that's a compliment of sorts, but it's a little odd to say.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
How did you like it?
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Well, I prefer the l'Ancien. But it's interesting. And the label might be my all time favorite. I need to try it again, it's been a while.
 
Lovely notes, pics, and ramblings. Great stuff.

I'm glad you made to the Villefranche covered market, it was a highlight for me.
Our friends who live in Lyon has been buying from a Boucheron there (it would be in the upper left corner of your picture) for many years.

We're just back from our recent trip. I had the chance to taste the 09 Metras Fleurie Le Printemps. I thought it was top notch and classically Fleurie, one very memorable bottle. It is a shame not to be able to buy these over here.

I had a different take on the 09 Thevenet VV. The bottle we drank had so much baby fat, the fruit seemed almost candied. I think it will benefit from cellar time. I much preferred the 09 Metras Fleurie for drinking now.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
Lovely notes, pics, and ramblings. Great stuff.

I'm glad you made to the Villefranche covered market, it was a highlight for me.
Our friends who live in Lyon has been buying from a Boucheron there (it would be in the upper left corner of your picture) for many years.

We're just back from our recent trip. I had the chance to taste the 09 Metras Fleurie Le Printemps. I thought it was top notch and classically Fleurie, one very memorable bottle. It is a shame not to be able to buy these over here.

I had a different take on the 09 Thevenet VV. The bottle we drank had so much baby fat, the fruit seemed almost candied. I think it will benefit from cellar time. I much preferred the 09 Metras Fleurie for drinking now.
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Hey man, welcome back. We specifically went to Villefranche on your recommendation and very glad we did. We basically bought our food for the week there. Apparently there is a bio market outside the hall on Saturdays too.

Hope you post notes on Corse.

There is a move afoot for a Beaujolais jeeb...
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
So where are the pix showing you w. McInerny and Duboeuf at the Hameau du Vin?
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We're the couple hanging out with Mickey Mouse in the background.
 
BJ thanks for a great report-I would also be interested in the gite info if possible. I saw the first photo and thought you were in St Remy and not Beaujolais.

We had a pruney 05 Vissoux recently-I thought it was just going OTH-reading what you say maybe it isnt.

mark
 
Does that mean Parker or Schildknecht?

By the way, 09 Vissoux sighting recently on Wine Searcher - somewhere out in CA: Traditionelle, Trois Roches, Poncie.
 
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