Romano Levi Grappa (Piedmont) A little girl label on this one. I think most would call this fruity, but Im not sure thats itthe fruit is somewhat impressionistic, or perhaps even abstract. Not cubist. It roils with tactile complexity, as much textural as aromatic, and despite the typically cauldronesque warmth of grappa, theres so much to both the texture and the aromatics that the heat goes almost unnoticed. Until later, at least. Definitely on the richer, more luxuriant side of Levi grappas, yet whats most surprising is that this isnt expressed alongside concomitant gravity, but instead with delicious weightlessness. Succulent and, reviewed in summary, majestic. (5/10)
Le Piane 1984 Boca (Piedmont) Clinging. Sharp acidity and dusty, brown, eroded roses with alpine minerality and thin shafts of bone sticking out everywhere. This was probably better a little while ago, but theres still quite a bit of life to it. Its just a creaky, arthritic life. (6/10)
Produttori del Barbaresco 1996 Barbaresco Pora Riserva (Piedmont) A recent purchase. Citrus, chalky tannins, gravel soup, and old woods harboring a memory of animal inhabitants long passed. (Not old wood. Old woods. Like an elderly forest.) A little worse for its wear. Intact bottles could be better, and if so perhaps not yet ready. (5/10)
Vajra 2006 Langhe Rosso (Piedmont) Very pretty. Crushed, partially dried old roses, dark and a little dusty, but still pure. Soft earth. Gorgeous texture. And all for an absurdly low price. Hard to beat, really. (5/10)
Ascheri 2005 do ut des il Gusto della Solicariet Verduno Pelaverga (Piedmont) Fruit with a bite, partially due to acidity but also thanks to an angular pink-purple sharpness all its own. Plum, raspberry, and razor blade. Very interesting. (5/10)
Ferrando Erbaluce di Caluso Cuve del Fondatore (Piedmont) Sparklingand yes, thats really how they print the accent on the label. Dark-fruited for a white sparkler, with the expected herbs. Bitter, fierce, and wild. Not easy to likebut nonetheless, I do, very much. I think. (5/10)
Bellotti Cascina degli Ulivi 2006 Monferrato Bianco Montemarino (Piedmont) Semi-oxidative and deliciously so, bringing wax, rinds, peels, and light green herbs together in a heady-yet-light broth. (5/10)
Roagna 2005 Dolcetto dAlba (Piedmont) Starts off difficult and overstructured, though of course this is a very early moment to be drinking such a wine. A lot of air andwell, the tannin doesnt subside, but the acidity shows a little brighter, and the dark, chewy fruit lumbers into the background. This is by any measure a heavy, muscular wine, and it will require a fair number of years to peel away the layers of difficulty. (6/10)
Cappellano 2005 Dolcetto dAlba Gabutti (Piedmont) Where do I start with the flaws? Ill need extra ink. I dont know if the problem is with the wine, the shipment, or just this bottle. But pretty much everything except refermentation and TCA that could go wrong with this wine, has gone wrong. Yuck. (6/10)
Le Piane 1984 Boca (Piedmont) Clinging. Sharp acidity and dusty, brown, eroded roses with alpine minerality and thin shafts of bone sticking out everywhere. This was probably better a little while ago, but theres still quite a bit of life to it. Its just a creaky, arthritic life. (6/10)
Produttori del Barbaresco 1996 Barbaresco Pora Riserva (Piedmont) A recent purchase. Citrus, chalky tannins, gravel soup, and old woods harboring a memory of animal inhabitants long passed. (Not old wood. Old woods. Like an elderly forest.) A little worse for its wear. Intact bottles could be better, and if so perhaps not yet ready. (5/10)
Vajra 2006 Langhe Rosso (Piedmont) Very pretty. Crushed, partially dried old roses, dark and a little dusty, but still pure. Soft earth. Gorgeous texture. And all for an absurdly low price. Hard to beat, really. (5/10)
Ascheri 2005 do ut des il Gusto della Solicariet Verduno Pelaverga (Piedmont) Fruit with a bite, partially due to acidity but also thanks to an angular pink-purple sharpness all its own. Plum, raspberry, and razor blade. Very interesting. (5/10)
Ferrando Erbaluce di Caluso Cuve del Fondatore (Piedmont) Sparklingand yes, thats really how they print the accent on the label. Dark-fruited for a white sparkler, with the expected herbs. Bitter, fierce, and wild. Not easy to likebut nonetheless, I do, very much. I think. (5/10)
Bellotti Cascina degli Ulivi 2006 Monferrato Bianco Montemarino (Piedmont) Semi-oxidative and deliciously so, bringing wax, rinds, peels, and light green herbs together in a heady-yet-light broth. (5/10)
Roagna 2005 Dolcetto dAlba (Piedmont) Starts off difficult and overstructured, though of course this is a very early moment to be drinking such a wine. A lot of air andwell, the tannin doesnt subside, but the acidity shows a little brighter, and the dark, chewy fruit lumbers into the background. This is by any measure a heavy, muscular wine, and it will require a fair number of years to peel away the layers of difficulty. (6/10)
Cappellano 2005 Dolcetto dAlba Gabutti (Piedmont) Where do I start with the flaws? Ill need extra ink. I dont know if the problem is with the wine, the shipment, or just this bottle. But pretty much everything except refermentation and TCA that could go wrong with this wine, has gone wrong. Yuck. (6/10)