Maule La Biancara 1999 Gambellara Recioto (Veneto) Starts off a little faded and browned-out, but thenwaittheres a lot more here than at first sip. Rich old-cherry and old-furniture aromatics, a surprising vibrancy, and very strong acidity. Are those pepper dusts, or something more aromatic in the spice realm? Whatever it is, it adds to the intrigue, which grows with each sip. I kinda love this. (5/10)
Primosic 2006 Collio Bianco Klin Riserva (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) Vibrant with complexity, quite tannic, and low-toned. If anything, slightly over-structured, oozing into a dark brown realm of density and gravity. And theres no lack of oxidation, either. But its delicious. (5/10)
Nardini Bassano Grapa (Veneto) Dominated by its floral/fruity/nutty notes rather than its heat or gasaholic stridency, which is welcome and unfortunately not common enough with grappa. (5/10)
St. Michael-Eppan Sanct Valentin 2006 Sauvignon (Alto Adige) Extremely intense, as is the Sanct Valentin style, but that intensity is expressed internally rather than some big, showy explosion of gobs and lavishness. Greenish-white fruit, white-hot and studded with shattered glass, quivering with barely-restrained power but never losing its grip on the foundation. Impressive. (7/10)
Hartmann Don 2004 Mitterberg Rot (Alto Adige) More skin than flesh, more tissue than muscle, more chill than warmth. Iced berries and gritty minerality. Not generous, and while thats not usually a flaw for my palate, I really cant get into this wine, which turns both a shoulder and a sneer. I feel like I should like it, because its got things I usually like, but I dont. (5/10)
Anselmi 2006 San Vincenzo (Veneto) Very advanced and a little bronzed, thus I suspect either heat damage or cork failure, and possibly both. Layers of spice and flower dust, honeyed but a little short, are still in evidence. But this is not an intact bottle. (5/10)
Armani 2009 Corvara Pinot Grigio Valdadige (Trentino) Decent straddling of the line between insipid plonk and something more mineral-driven and interesting. And theres really not much more to be said about it. (5/10)
Mionetto Sergio Mionetto Extra Dry Sparkling Wine (Italy) Soft, formless, and vague. (7/10)
Primosic 2006 Collio Bianco Klin Riserva (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) Vibrant with complexity, quite tannic, and low-toned. If anything, slightly over-structured, oozing into a dark brown realm of density and gravity. And theres no lack of oxidation, either. But its delicious. (5/10)
Nardini Bassano Grapa (Veneto) Dominated by its floral/fruity/nutty notes rather than its heat or gasaholic stridency, which is welcome and unfortunately not common enough with grappa. (5/10)
St. Michael-Eppan Sanct Valentin 2006 Sauvignon (Alto Adige) Extremely intense, as is the Sanct Valentin style, but that intensity is expressed internally rather than some big, showy explosion of gobs and lavishness. Greenish-white fruit, white-hot and studded with shattered glass, quivering with barely-restrained power but never losing its grip on the foundation. Impressive. (7/10)
Hartmann Don 2004 Mitterberg Rot (Alto Adige) More skin than flesh, more tissue than muscle, more chill than warmth. Iced berries and gritty minerality. Not generous, and while thats not usually a flaw for my palate, I really cant get into this wine, which turns both a shoulder and a sneer. I feel like I should like it, because its got things I usually like, but I dont. (5/10)
Anselmi 2006 San Vincenzo (Veneto) Very advanced and a little bronzed, thus I suspect either heat damage or cork failure, and possibly both. Layers of spice and flower dust, honeyed but a little short, are still in evidence. But this is not an intact bottle. (5/10)
Armani 2009 Corvara Pinot Grigio Valdadige (Trentino) Decent straddling of the line between insipid plonk and something more mineral-driven and interesting. And theres really not much more to be said about it. (5/10)
Mionetto Sergio Mionetto Extra Dry Sparkling Wine (Italy) Soft, formless, and vague. (7/10)