Martinborough Muhammad

[Saina Nieminen]

Julicher 99 Rows Pinot Noir 2009 - Te Muna, Martinborough, NZ

14% abv; 10 months in French oak of which 15% was new. The first thing that strikes me is its Pinosity. There is none of that slightly artificial, sharp, cranberry jam aroma that I sense in almost every NZ PN that has been available here since I got into wine. Instead it smells fresh, sexy and slightly spicy from the oak with the slightly savoury tang to the sweet fruit that always makes good Pinot so uncommonly appealing. Of course I would prefer less oak (when wouldn't I????), but if it is already showing more Pinosity than oak in this youthful stage, perhaps it is safe to say it should turn out well in a few years? Or what is the Disorderly view of oak doing the Muhammad al-Mahdi?

Quite rich, but the high alcohol doesn't show, the tannins are a bit softer than I'd prefer (but that's because I like tannins and grip in amounts rarely seen in Pinot apart from Faiveley or J-P Brun) but the acidity brings enough structure to keep the youthful, primary fruit from becoming overbearing. It's not Burgundy - and nor should it be since it's not from there. Possibly very good. And this is the first NZ PN that I feel somewhat excited by!

 

[Thor]

There is none of that slightly artificial, sharp, cranberry jam aroma that I sense in almost every NZ PN that has been available here since I got into wine.

Not my usual complaint, but it depends on what you're drinking. I would bet, though, that it's a clonal issue; the Te Muna (Road) vineyards are all fairly new plantings, and mostly they've been planting the Burgundian clones rather than the old national standbys. It's way too early to tell which clones will work best in which New Zealand terroirs, but the experimentation is ongoing.

perhaps it is safe to say it should turn out well in a few years?

The number of NZ pinots that don't eventually absorb their oak is minimal outside the ultra-luxury range, of which little leaves the country (and that may be too much of a generalization, given that the ultra-luxury bottles mostly aren't all that old). 15% new isn't much. The question has always been whether or not the wine will develop (rather than last) over that time period. And that, too, might have some relationship to the clones. Again, time will tell.

but the high alcohol doesn't show

That right there is what they fight against, all over the country. It's instructive to remember that at more than one house, the top cuve of pinot noir is only made in lighter years, and is inevitably lower in alcohol than the regular. A great majority of their vineyard research and experimentation is directed at controlling alcohol, which is not at all enthusiastically embraced like it is in certain other New World pinot-growing areas. (There are exceptions, of course.)

 

[Oswaldo Costa]

originally posted by Thor:

but the high alcohol doesn't show

That right there is what they fight against, all over the country. It's instructive to remember that at more than one house, the top cuve of pinot noir is only made in lighter years, and is inevitably lower in alcohol than the regular. A great majority of their vineyard research and experimentation is directed at controlling alcohol, which is not at all enthusiastically embraced like it is in certain other New World pinot-growing areas. (There are exceptions, of course.)

That's great. If only it were contagious.