Morgon le Phi

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
2004 Jean-Paul Thvenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes 13.0%
In Morgon, next to the hallowed cte du π, sits the less well-known cte du φ, pronounced phi (rhymes with fly, hence the local expression, "give me a phi," later bastardized). Its associated number, 1.618, among other magical properties, allows us to convert wine from Morgon years to the years of others (a 6 year old Morgon is like a 9.7 yr old Volnay or a 15.7 yr old Pomerol). Going up the scale and entering the animal kingdom, last nights six year old Morgon was like a sprightly fifty-six year old human, with a well-cared for body and a visage lined with the accumulated wisdom of life well lived. Color is beginning to brown at the edges. A touch of brett blows off when solemnly poo pood, but not before conferring a halo of age. Sour cherry mixed with slightly expired strawberry; spices, closer to cloves than myrrh, with a solemn smokiness underlined by the stemminess of the long distance runner. Acid/sweet balance exquisite and mouth weight elegantly satisfying, unimposing but firmly present. Slight secondary fermentation compounds with acidity to leave a teasing nibble on the tongue. Survival is miraculous given minimal SO2 and unfathomable whereabouts prior to acquisition.
 
I'm 56, sprightly (most of the time). Well-cared for body? Define "well-cared for". My hair is 95% brown (does that count?)

And my name's not Brett!
 
I may have to let Sandi make that call. However, I can confirm that the middle digit of each of my hands is well-cared for.
 
Brown wine that shows brett and secondary fermentation, and you call that 'survival'?

I guess in a minimal sense. And I guess it wasn't ravaged.

Would have been interesting to compare with a bottle still sitting in the domaine, as in BJ's report.

But, nice that you could derive a good amount of pleasure. And of course it was a nice note.
 
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